Stiff bolt 1903A3

[DW357]

So I brought the Remington 1903A3 to the range today and noticed the bolt was getting progressively harder to open. I thought it was my reloads but then I shot some factory PPU and it was still difficult to raise the bolt handle and extract the brass.

BUT I did try cycling the action on an empty chamber (after pulling the trigger) and it was just as difficult to raise the bolt handle.

Got home and disassembled the bolt and cleaned it and put some oil on the moving parts and then put it back in the rifle. Slight improvement but still stiff.

What else could be causing this? I don’t recall it being this stiff the last time I shot it.

And when I say stiff, I had to aggressively hold/clamp the receiver with my left hand while raising the bolt handle with my right hand.

Chamber didn’t look too bad/dirty but I suppose I could run my 30 cal chamber brush and see if that helps? Not sure what else would cause it to bind so badly.

 

[Picton]

I can't help productively, except to say two things: I hope your rifle starts functioning more smoothly, and this is the reason why I prefer cock-on-closing bolt actions. Like the M1917. When it does get sticky, you can bring more leverage to bear.

You'll fix it.

 

[Queen Bee]

@andrew1220 have you checked to see if the extractor is rotating freely? maybe one reload was stronger than the rest and it bulged out the extractor?

 

[PatMcD]

Sometimes a broken striker spring will still work, but bind things up in operation.

 

[DW357]

@andrew1220 have you checked to see if the extractor is rotating freely? maybe one reload was stronger than the rest and it bulged out the extractor?

Yeah it moves around just fine. Cycling the action without pulling the trigger, is nice and smooth. But after pulling the trigger holy crap.

 

[DW357]

Sometimes a broken striker spring will still work, but bind things up in operation.

Hmm. I’ll have to take another look at that. I didn’t notice anything weird with the spring but then again I wasn’t looking at it very closely. Thanks.

 

[DW357]

Spring looks good.
I just scrubbed out the chamber as it was fairly dirty. Especially that little notch/groove on the right side had a bunch of sludgy fouling built up. Cleaned that out and now it’s much better.

It’s far from buttery smooth but then again this isn’t some high end modern precision rifle. I’ve just never shot another 1903 before so I have nothing to compare it to.

I’m assuming it’s the spring that’s creating all that force required to raise the bolt handle?

Do they make lighter springs? Or is that a bad idea?

 

[DW357]

Looks like some of the guys on the CMP forums recommend cutting off 1/2"-3/4" from the striker spring to reduce the force needed to raise the bolt handle?

Tight bolt operation on 1903 - CMP Forums

Use this forum to discuss 1903s, A3s, A4s, 1917s, Krags, and other CMP bolt-action rifles

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[Queen Bee]

I don't think anyone makes lighter, most make heavier.

You could bubba it by either torching a spring and extending it making it easier to stretch?

 

[Queen Bee]

I wonder if i should try this on a mauser spring for fun lol.

 

[DW357]

I wonder if i should try this on a mauser spring for fun lol.

Well I went full on bubba! Cut off 1/2" then felt the action - definitely better. Cut off another 1/4" and now it's pretty damn nice. I can now cycle the action and still shoulder the rifle.

Going to hit the range during lunch to make sure it's still reliable . I won't be shooting HXP - only PPU and my reloads with CCI and Win primers. The CCI primers might be iffy since they're the hardest. We shall see!

Worst case if it's not reliable I'll buy a new spring and start over.

 

[DW357]

Shot 20 rounds at the range and they all went bang. Never thought it would be so easy as just cutting the spring.

 

[mac1911]

Shot 20 rounds at the range and they all went bang. Never thought it would be so easy as just cutting the spring.

you need to look at the areas that have friction....bolt/cocking piece sleeve/ lock for give me for lack of actual names ect ect.... My gut says you lowered the srping tension allowing the bolt body/head/sleeve tension on each part allowing the real problem to not show its face as well with full tension if that makes sense to you? Also take a good look at the sear points.
just look at all the points where there could be junk , hunk of brass , ect ect. Make sure your trigger assembly is moving freely also

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFgcFNpT6AI

 

[DW357]

you need to look at the areas that have friction....bolt/cocking piece sleeve/ lock for give me for lack of actual names ect ect.... My gut says you lowered the srping tension allowing the bolt body/head/sleeve tension on each part allowing the real problem to not show its face as well with full tension if that makes sense to you?

Ahh could be! Definitely possible. I don't really see anything that sticks out to me as being "off" but I'm not a 1903 expert. Maybe I'll post some pics and see if others see anything wrong.

 

[daekken]

Worst case if it's not reliable I'll buy a new rifle and start over.

 

[jpm]

@andrew1220 , try cocking the bolt before you open it and see if it still sticks. It could simply be stacking tolerances on the bolt if its pieced together.

 

[DW357]

@andrew1220 , try cocking the bolt before you open it and see if it still sticks. It could simply be stacking tolerances on the bolt if its pieced together.

Nope doesn’t stick if I cock the bolt.

It’s Remington bolt just like the rifle. I think it’s all matching/original from what the seller told me back when I bought it.

The only thing that looks remotely worn is the front of the extractor but I don’t know if that would really make the bolt stiff.

 

[mac1911]

Nope doesn’t stick if I cock the bolt.

It’s Remington bolt just like the rifle. I think it’s all matching/original from what the seller told me back when I bought it.

The only thing that looks remotely worn is the front of the extractor but I don’t know if that would really make the bolt stiff.

View attachment 363607View attachment 363608View attachment 363609

its the other end you would find problems with....I have no way to really put it to words. look at the relation ships between 1-12 and make sure your extractor and extractor collar are not binding. theres some things going on with parts 1-6 also. Did you notice if your main spring was broken ? Like a small piece of the end coil that can find its way into places it should not go?

 

[golden chicken]

Given the video and parts diagram posted above, my guess is your problem is where 2, 6, and the bolt are interfacing when you try to lift the bolt handle against spring tension. It looks like that part cams against the firing pin spring pressure when you open the bolt.

 

[dhuze]

My guess is you worked on your firearms again.

 

[jpm]

the face of the extractor looks like its peened. I think that is probably where the binding is coming from.

 

[Sweeney]

Disassemble the bolt, clean and inspect all the parts. Most likely an issue with the camming surfaces that cock the striker. Might be damaged...might just be sticky crud.

 

[dhuze]

Nope doesn’t stick if I cock the bolt.

It’s Remington bolt just like the rifle. I think it’s all matching/original from what the seller told me back when I bought it.

The only thing that looks remotely worn is the front of the extractor but I don’t know if that would really make the bolt stiff.

View attachment 363607

This looks like it's grinding against something. Nothing should be shiny when it was blued.

 

[jpm]

This looks like it's grinding against something. Nothing should be shiny when it was blued.

Or it was dropped at some point and hit the pavement on the extractor face. I think that's causing the binding against the chamber area.

 

[Mountain]

+1 regarding extractor face. Did that fall out of the same tank bag as allen-1's Glock? There are some other spots that look a bit rough around the face of the bolt. Probably causing you some issues.

Did cutting the spring reduce your trigger pull?

 

[jpm]

I may have an extra extractor around here @andrew1220 I'll dig around

 

[mac1911]

+1 regarding extractor face. Did that fall out of the same tank bag as allen-1's Glock? There are some other spots that look a bit rough around the face of the bolt. Probably causing you some issues.

Did cutting the spring reduce your trigger pull?

IIRC Franco told me cutting mainspring coils or going with lighter spring increases lock time more than beneficial trigger pull reduction.
At some point I am going to do my Rock Ridge Machine 1903a4 clone which ever part has been heavily parkerized. Again IIRC Franco or Maybe Super Smart Old Steve Said a lighter trigger return spring and a good polish of the contacts will get you to a nice smooth crisp trigger. Then depending on how you want the 2 stage to feel you work the trigger humps. I like a some what long first stage and then a short crisp 2nd. Most of my "service" rifles are 3lbs first stage 1-1/2lb second stage.

 

[DW357]

the face of the extractor looks like its peened. I think that is probably where the binding is coming from.

Disassemble the bolt, clean and inspect all the parts. Most likely an issue with the camming surfaces that cock the striker. Might be damaged...might just be sticky crud.

+1 regarding extractor face. Did that fall out of the same tank bag as allen-1's Glock? There are some other spots that look a bit rough around the face of the bolt. Probably causing you some issues.

Did cutting the spring reduce your trigger pull?

IIRC Franco told me cutting mainspring coils or going with lighter spring increases lock time more than beneficial trigger pull reduction.
At some point I am going to do my Rock Ridge Machine 1903a4 clone which ever part has been heavily parkerized. Again IIRC Franco or Maybe Super Smart Old Steve Said a lighter trigger return spring and a good polish of the contacts will get you to a nice smooth crisp trigger. Then depending on how you want the 2 stage to feel you work the trigger humps. I like a some what long first stage and then a short crisp 2nd. Most of my "service" rifles are 3lbs first stage 1-1/2lb second stage.

Sorry for the delay in responding. Finally had a chance to take more pics. I don’t think the extractor is the issue because that doesn’t really move. It stays on the one side of the bolt, when the action is cycled. So there shouldn’t be any “rubbing” on the front of the extractor? It literally just slides forward and backward with the bolt.

That being said I think the issue might be these “camming” surfaces others here have mentioned. This is the back of the bolt. It’s peened inwards on these two parts of the bolt. These rotate/slide against each other during cycling. So that might be the resistance?

 

[DW357]

its the other end you would find problems with....I have no way to really put it to words. look at the relation ships between 1-12 and make sure your extractor and extractor collar are not binding. theres some things going on with parts 1-6 also. Did you notice if your main spring was broken ? Like a small piece of the end coil that can find its way into places it should not go?
View attachment 363612

Given the video and parts diagram posted above, my guess is your problem is where 2, 6, and the bolt are interfacing when you try to lift the bolt handle against spring tension. It looks like that part cams against the firing pin spring pressure when you open the bolt.

It’s parts 6 and 10 that I’m referring to I believe.

 

[DW357]

+1 regarding extractor face. Did that fall out of the same tank bag as allen-1's Glock? There are some other spots that look a bit rough around the face of the bolt. Probably causing you some issues.

Did cutting the spring reduce your trigger pull?

I don’t think the trigger pull changed much. Just the smoothness of the action.