Strap on sling for 10/22

[Reptile]

Where can I get a strap on sling for a Ruger 10/22.

It has a synthetic stock so I can not mount anything to it very well.

I did a search on Midway and other sites but could not get anywhere.



Thanks!!!

 

[dwarven1]

Why do you need a strap on sling?

I put regular sling swivels on my synthetic-stocked 10/22 with no problems. Used the wood-screw threaded swivel for the buttstock and the machine screw threaded swivel for the forearm - you may have to cut the screw down a bit, but that's easy enough to do. Just remember to thread the nut on it before you cut so that when you back the nut off, it cleans up the threads as it comes off/

 

[Reptile]

I do not like the idea of installing those screws into a hollow plastic stock which is what mine is.

Perhaps the new Ruger with synthetic stock got crappier and is hollow now.

Do you know what a strap on sling is called in any catalogs?

 

[dwarven1]

Mine was hollow, too. As I think back on it, I might have removed some of the internal flashing on the forend when I installed the screw... but it's holding just fine.

No idea what else you could use, though.

 

[JonJ]

From a thread at the Project Appleseed forum.

I have a Ruger 10/22 with a synthetic stock that doesn't have sling swivels, so I am going to replace the stock. I don't want to spend more than $100 and will keep the standard barrel. The options are: Butler Creek Sporter Stock, Hogue OverMolded Stock, and Ruger 10/22 Factory Deluxe Checkered Walnut Stock. Which stock will most improve the accuracy of the 10/22? If it's a toss up, I'm leaning towards the beauty of a wood stock.

This is an easy one to answer, and I can save you a LOT of money, even if you have someone else do the work.
I'd keep the stock, as it has some obvious and "hidden" benefits that some other stocks may lack.

What you need to buy is a kit made by Uncle Mike's that has 1-1/4" sling swivels (GI sling size) and which has one machine screw stud, and one wood screw stud attachment. The kit will cost about $8, maybe less.
Google Natchez Shooter's Supply and MidwayUSA for the kit.

The machine screw goes in the fore-end maybe an inch to the rear of the band; wood screw in butt maybe an inch forward of the stock/buttplate interface. You MAY have to trim the excess machine screw in fore-end so as to not hit barrel. Important to not interfere with barrel.

For extra insurance on both screws, pack some plumbers epoxy putty ($5?) TIGHT around the exposed screws inside the stock, making a cone-like arrangement. They'll NEVER pull out. You can prise off the end-cap of modern Ruger synthetic stocks with a couple of slender, wide-bladed screwdrivers. Use a toothpick and find the very deep groove. That's the joint, and that's where you employ the screwdrivers. Easy does it, and if you're careful, nothing is marked up afterwards. The central buttplate is just glued in place with some silicone-type adhesive, and it releases easily with just a little coaxing. After you are finished installing the sling studs, there's enough room on the hollow buttstock for every conceivable spare part, emergency cleaning kit, cleaning supplies, and some ammo besides. Secure now-detached buttplate with a couple of pan-head stainless steel screws, or omit screws if you need added pull length and slip a Pachmayr recoil pad over the butt. The slip-on pad will cover the newly-installed rear sling stud, so cut a nice, round tear-resistant hole in the pad with an appropriately-sized shell case and hammer.

I'm handy, have the tools (common) and have done it once. I could do the whole 9 yards in 20 mins max, no sweat. YMMV.