Thanks for the help everyone

How about just stop all the theatrics and just post the problem in one of the motorcycle threads ? Possibly those of us who have successfully wrenched motorcycles for the past 37 years but do not claim to be "the absolute best of the best with no bull shit" can assist you for free in solving the problem yourself saving you a lot of money ?
 
How about just stop all the theatrics and just post the problem in one of the motorcycle threads ? Possibly those of us who have successfully wrenched motorcycles for the past 37 years but do not claim to be "the absolute best of the best with no bull shit" can assist you for free in solving the problem yourself saving you a lot of money ?
Thank you for the suggestion and it is an excellent idea but I am past wanting to fix this on my own and just want it done.
I was trying to have a little fun with my post at the same time, sorry it wasn't taken that way.
 
I can almost guarantee you your problem is clogged jets from ethanol additives.

The only good fix is pull the carb/Carbs and clean them thoroughly, noting that some of the passages are really really small

What is it doing exactly ( won't idle, no power, lean backfire ?)
 
OK it looks like the two carbs are easy to get to, and many of the areas that are problematic can be accessed, including pulling the top off, removing the rubber diaphragm and needle exposing the main jet.

Does it run?

If so does one cylinder get hotter than the other? ( infra red thermometer on the exhaust as it exits the head helps or even a few drops of water )
 
I will leave this post up for a half day or so.
If it gets too out of control then I will just delete it and go another way.
I do thank anybody in advance for any suggestions or leads on someone who knows there stuff and feels like messing with this.

Simple back story.
This was my son's first street bike.
He has long since moved on.
Dad, trying to help fix this one fails miserably and feels like jackass.
It's just not my thing.
My passion is and always has been all things gun related.
The end. LOL
 
how much different from stock can they be?

Jet kit and shimmed needles? Those are pretty basic carbs.

If you have good fuel flow from the tank ( verified by running the feed hose into a bottle and watching for good flow), if it is a vacuum petcock switching it over to prime to get full flow bypassing the vac line.

Rubber fuel lines do go bad over time, the can collapse or dump crud into the bowls that then gets into some little passageway

20 year old diaphragms and O rings.....

Bite the bullet, get a rebuild kit, rip them off the bike, tear them down, get some of the good old fashioned Berryman Carb Dip and let the parts sit in that stuff for a day. then rebuild.

If not send an email to Pete "Kwick" Arronson at expensivelightweightstuff.com and ask him if he will do a full service on them if you ship them to him.
602-397-4869 or [email protected]

PS he is in AZ, but answers his phone and texts almost 24/7
 
I can almost guarantee you your problem is clogged jets from ethanol additives.

The only good fix is pull the carb/Carbs and clean them thoroughly, noting that some of the passages are really really small

What is it doing exactly ( won't idle, no power, lean backfire ?)
Agreed, but f*** cleaning them, just buy all new jets. Bam, works like new again!
 
Agreed, but f*** cleaning them, just buy all new jets. Bam, works like new again!
some of those Mikuni carbs have really small internal passages, and sometimes when they are in units of 2 or 4 there are passages between the carbs.

Sometimes they just need a good soak in good old fashioned this stuff could dissolve a body carb cleaner overnight.

you have to be careful though, Simple Green will destroy a carb body.... the guy I know in AZ that does them puts them in an ultrasonic cleaner overnight to get them back to new condition
 
What he has not said, but said in a PM is that when the bike starts it revs VERY high
1) throttle cable(s) improperly adjusted
2) throttle cable(s) too short
3) air leak

If the OP had screwed around with adding "other than OEM" aftermarket race carbs, that's a whole new can of worms. The decades old tried and true oem Mikuni CV type carbs are excellent street carbs (as long as the jets and idle circuit is kept clean. ). As others accurately commented Ethanol is BAD if left untreated in a MC fuel system for extended periods of time. Etehnol leaves a corrosive fungus that destroys carb internals and wreaks havoc clogging brass jets and components. I SWEAR by Startron fuel enzyme been using it for the past 16 years with excellent protection.

 
1) throttle cable(s) improperly adjusted
2) throttle cable(s) too short
3) air leak

If the OP had screwed around with adding "other than OEM" aftermarket race carbs, that's a whole new can of worms. The decades old tried and true oem Mikuni CV type carbs are excellent street carbs (as long as the jets and idle circuit is kept clean. ). As others accurately commented Ethanol is BAD if left untreated in a MC fuel system for extended periods of time. Etehnol leaves a corrosive fungus that destroys carb internals and wreaks havoc clogging brass jets and components. I SWEAR by Startron fuel enzyme been using it for the past 16 years with excellent protection.


Road_Clam
You are 100% the winner.
I put the phone down an hour ago and went to the garage where I ripped the carbs back off the bike.
I noticed that the idle screw would not even touch the stop even when fully turned in
I the looked at the butterfly and it was considerably open.
I the chased the throttle cable only to find that it had been turned out so tight that it was holding open the throttle
It has now been adjusted and the bike is idling at just over 1K
It is smooth and responsive with no popping or coughing.
I am happy as hell and also feeling like a dumbass
 
Road_Clam
You are 100% the winner.
I put the phone down an hour ago and went to the garage where I ripped the carbs back off the bike.
I noticed that the idle screw would not even touch the stop even when fully turned in
I the looked at the butterfly and it was considerably open.
I the chased the throttle cable only to find that it had been turned out so tight that it was holding open the throttle
It has now been adjusted and the bike is idling at just over 1K
It is smooth and responsive with no popping or coughing.
I am happy as hell and also feeling like a dumbass

Seriously guy, you would be amazed at the level of diverse expertise here on NES. We are here to try and help. Sometimes it gets frustrating as you do have to weed through totally wrong and stupid advice, but there is excellent feedback as well. We can't help if you don't ask the questions. Glad you solved one of the issues, and you learned something of value for free ! Win/Win
 
More proof that there was no such thing as a stupid question glad you found your solution and that it didn't cost you anything
 
1) throttle cable(s) improperly adjusted
2) throttle cable(s) too short
3) air leak

If the OP had screwed around with adding "other than OEM" aftermarket race carbs, that's a whole new can of worms. The decades old tried and true oem Mikuni CV type carbs are excellent street carbs (as long as the jets and idle circuit is kept clean. ). As others accurately commented Ethanol is BAD if left untreated in a MC fuel system for extended periods of time. Etehnol leaves a corrosive fungus that destroys carb internals and wreaks havoc clogging brass jets and components. I SWEAR by Startron fuel enzyme been using it for the past 16 years with excellent protection.

Startron is my jam, preach on brother!
 
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