Thinking about getting another 38spl--what one?

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Have a Ruger LCR, it's a great carry gun. Not so much for the range. Such is life.

I'd like to get a six round 38spl, for the house and for the range. Used most likely. Six rounds. You see, if I could live with 5 I'd probably get the Ruger SP-101, which I like. It fits good in the hand, albeit it has a longer trigger pull than the LCR it seems. I did hold a GP100 once, in the gun shop; with a 6" barrel it seemed huge. Maybe it wouldn't in practice, especially if I went 4".

I've thought S&W model 10 (or 64), can't rule that out. They can handle +P (if dash anything and/or post '77, not sure which) but they might shoot loose. I guess I could go 13/65 (the 357Mag version) as that should shoot 38+P forever; but usually one pays extra for that capability.

Anyhow, would a Model 10 with a Hogue monogrip be similar in hold to an SP-101? What else should I think about? Just looking for suggestions, stuff to think about as I save up.

[I shot an SP-101 but in 327mag once. I liked it, although I'm not sold on getting set up for 327 mag reloading, and buying 327mag ammunition. I don't know what I was shooting--85grn or 100grn--but it was Fed hollowpoints, and man, it had like zero recoil!]
 
Dude, there is no amount of +P that will shoot loose a Model 10 or 64 before your hands fall off.

38 Special +P is not that strong, pressure and recoil wise.

Get yourself a 4" 64 and shoot the piss out of it. You won't hurt it. BTW, with a good holster and gunbelt you can carry a 4" heavy barrel K frame in surprising comfort.

Don't over think this.
 
I had a 4" model 67 that was a tack driver. Wish I had never sold it. Those and the model 15s were very good guns. I never saw one shot loose from using anything near sane to shoot ammo (reloads can be another issue depending on who loaded them).

A 3" model 65 would be a good choice as well.
 
Dude, there is no amount of +P that will shoot loose a Model 10 or 64 before your hands fall off.

38 Special +P is not that strong, pressure and recoil wise.

Get yourself a 4" 64 and shoot the piss out of it. You won't hurt it. BTW, with a good holster and gunbelt you can carry a 4" heavy barrel K frame in surprising comfort.

Don't over think this.

+1
 
Get a Model 10. May just be me but I think revolvers should be blued, not stainless.

And Jose is correct... +P will not do anything to a K-frame revolver. The issue you're thinking of arose when early .357 K-frames were shot over an extended period of time with heavy .357 loads.
 
My reading on the infallible 'web has some people thinking that +P isn't a great idea. That was what I was going on last night. [[strike]Someone said they had a letter from S&W indicating post '77, and there are a few references say it must be a model number not the older M&P series. The post '77 was a new one to me, only saw that last night.[/strike] Reread that link, turns out wrong model. Mea culpa.] Generally though I agree: it's not a major step up in power, 10% in pressure isn't huge, assuming that the gun was safe at standard pressures (barrels are supposed to be proofed at what, 150%? of max pressure for the caliber?).

Thanks, though. I kinda thought the same, just get one of these K frames. They haven't been popular (and in production) for decades for no good reason. Too bad this wasn't a decade ago, with the reported piles of police trade-ins for the taking.
 
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'tis not a bad idea, and would allow me to shoot magnums at least occasionally. [As in, more limited by my pocketbook than by the gun.] I'm not ruling out getting a 13/65, I just have my doubts about finding one that doesn't make my eyeballs fall out. Maybe I'll just save up for a bit longer. We'll see. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking some overlooked but similar gun that would do the job. But it seems like the 10 is about what I want (available, cheap, well used, well recommended, etc).
 
Too bad this wasn't a decade ago, with the reported piles of police trade-ins for the taking.
I picked this Model 64 up a year ago for $290 OTD including the old police holster:

DSC00308.jpg

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A little elbow grease with polish and a rag and a new set of Ahrends grips, and here we go:
DSC00322.jpg
 
supton, do you understand S&W's model numbering system? Revolver model numbers beginning in 6 denote stainless guns.

The following are the same exact revolvers in carbon steel/stainless steel:

10/64
13/65
15/67
19/66
586/686
581/681
27/627
29/629
24/624

Just to name a few.
 
I did know about the 6, but it's not entirely consistant--Model 64 being the stainless version of 10, 65 being of the 13 (357mag K frame), etc. I use the terms interchangably as the guns are the same save for the finish. [But if it starts with a "6" it's stainless, I do get that.]

Since I'm looking for used, it's more of "what's available" not "it's model 10 or nothing else". As it is, I'm not sure which I'd prefer--blued looks better, but stainless requires less upkeep, and the pricing reflects that. But again, it's more of "ooh, it's in the store, and at a price I'm willing to pay".
 
You really cannot go wrong with ANY Smith & Wesson K or L frame revolver in either .357 Magnum or .38 Special.

But I have to ask the inevitable. Why limit yourself to six rounds?

I ask in all seriousness. Handgun cartridges are not one shot manstoppers unless you get lucky. And home invasions have a higher chance of including multiple attackers than the chance dirtbag on the street.

If you are going to limit yourself to five or six cartridges, make them 12 gauge 00 buckshot.

If you must have a handgun, consider something with 15+ rounds in the magazine to give yourself an edge.
 
I've thought about automatics, and I'm not ruling them out. Really, though, any thoughts would be of the regular "auto vs revolver" thread.

In my mind, I'm not enamored with running 100 or 200 or (pick your number) of rounds to prove that the automatic will cycle properly and/or break it in (in the case of a brand new purchase). Magazines give grief, and cost money to acquire the proper amount of. This is of course relatively dealt with by buying a "quality" automatic; but one pays extra for such quality. Regardless, in my mind, such an ammunition expenditure is pricey. As it is, I look at my 38 and I say "Huh, it costs a buck-fifty to load the cylinder" when shooting cheapo WWB. So I want to reload. Automatics have you digging around for brass to reload, as it chucks it all over. Also, does one go single action and have to deal with a safety; or do you go striker and wonder about ND's? For now I do pocket carry; will it cycle with pocket lint? Will it cycle if I limp-wrist? If it's small (with its attendant recoil), will I practice? [Ok, I hate practice with my LCR, so that point is moot.] Right now, I have a Ruger MkII for a 22. That's semi-automatic, and yes it's fun to shoot. I also have to concentrate real hard, as it feels funny in the hand--I feel like I'm holding it from the very front of the grip and the very rear of the grip, and that the side panels are doing naught for me. [But it's a 22, so that barely matters. For a 22.]

It seems to that most incidents are resolved with few shots. Let me back up: Lott (and others) have indicated most incidents by far are resolved with no shots at all. And, if it's not resolved with a few, what are the odds of me getting to shots number 6 and up in that automatic? The police, sure, they need more than 6, it certainly has its places. But for me? Not so sure.

As you might guess, very subjective. That's just my summation of my thoughts. But, I'm trying not to be wed to one technology; if money was not a factor I'd have one of everything, and then re-evaluate what I thought was best. IMO, a simple revolver has been a mainstay for some good reasons. That's not to say that automatics are automatically bad; just that I'm not enamored at this time. At this time, I'm more enamored with getting decent at hitting what I want to hit with something that will work, and doing that quickly; later on, I can work up to a "more serious" caliber and/or higher round count.

Also, at this time, I don't trust myself to keep a long gun properly stored at home--that is, away from small kids yet accessible. I'm not a fan of lockboxes either, that's something to fumble with at o-dark-thirty. Maybe when the kids are grown it'll be double-ought for the house, as that's definately proven itself.
 
No offense, but I'm not buying a gun in MA. I haven't read up on the laws, nor do I want to transfer a gun, not when I can just go down the street and buy what I want. Or ask the proprietor to "keep an eye out" for me for whatever it is that I want. I mean, transfer fee plus MA sales tax, plus the drive to MA, plus I can't remember if MA has a 3 day waiting period (guess that could be rolled into shipping), plus whatever I'm missing.
 
If you're going to go for the Smith revolver, get a mod 15 Masterpiece. Nice everyday gun, but with the adjustable sights it's a tackdriver.
 
the old 'matter blue" M28 Smith is the size originally used to fire the 357. Since you won''t be carrying it, the N frame's size and wt won't matter to you. It matters a lot to others, which is why they sell so cheap. Butter smooth DA trigger, unlike the Rugers. CAN load it up to real power, too, for use on animals and such. Colonnel Wesson took elk and grizzly with an 8" .357, you know. Why not a 6" model, for matches and home use? That will let you get a 158 gr jhp up to over 1400 fps, for 700 ft lbs of energy, with real expansion in flesh, too. The 44 oz wt will make such a load adequately controlable for slowfire.
 
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Interesting on the Model 28. My only experience with the larger revolvers is holding a 6" GP100 in a store once, and thinking, dang this is big. No doubt better on recoil, and better sight radius. I just haven't tried running one yet.
 
Held a Model 10-5 yesterday; that has tempered my desire for a K frame. If I center the grip on the web of my hand, I can only put the tip of my index finger on the trigger--I'd have to do the full DA pull with the tip. I prefer using the crease of the first joint--which required me to put the metal (backstrap? dunno what you call it, the exposed metal of the frame in the grip portion) more onto the base of my thumb, rather than in the web of my hand. Unfortunately, it was a gun show so it was zip-tied and thus no dry fire to determine how much effort to pull it in DA.
 
I have a 10-8 and i love the thing.. There was over 6 million model tens made so they are nice and cheap to buy as-well..
My trigger pull is nice for a DA and SA is even better.. Some i have shot felt a little different than mine which makes me wonder if something has been worked a little...
I have put every type of cheap .38 ammo down the barrel and never an issue i wouldn't hesitate to buy one (especially for the price) if i already didn't have one..
There should also be a plenty large enough grip selection for it to fit any type of hand for any type of shooting..
 
I'll try holding one again, but it seemed like the trigger reach was too long, and with the grip frame exposed, it seemed to me unlikely that a grip change could fix that. I probably should have snapped up that Ruger Speed Six when I saw it this past weekend. I didn't fondle it long, but it did feel good, like the SP101.
 
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