Thoughts on the 586-6 and GP100 match...

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Howdy folks.

Sorry I've been absent here for a while with the whole Montana thing. I've been thinking about a jack of all trades 357 and I've narrowed it down between the new 586 S&W and the GP100 match. I own several Ruger revolvers and love their durability and reliability and am a bit leery of Smith...but from handling the 586 I really like it and it seems to be one of the better made guns coming off the line these days....ideas?
 
the mere mention of choosing a 586 vs (anything) has gotten me mad. Mad,that your able to do it, and Mad that I cant because finding one here in the PRM is all but impossible, and bringing one in is even less chance. neg rep inbound[crying]
 
the mere mention of choosing a 586 vs (anything) has gotten me mad. Mad,that your able to do it, and Mad that I cant because finding one here in the PRM is all but impossible, and bringing one in is even less chance. neg rep inbound[crying]

...it is amazing how quickly you forget the insanity that is Massachusetts when it comes to stupid gun laws.
 
I like the 66 but there's something about the "classic" look and feel that appeals to me.

I've never owned a blued gun. Is there really that much difference in possible rust issues over SS?
 
I like the 66 but there's something about the "classic" look and feel that appeals to me.

I've never owned a blued gun. Is there really that much difference in possible rust issues over SS?

The important difference between the 586 and 66 is the frame, not the finish. The 66 is a K-frame. The 586 is the L-frame. The L-frame is larger, with a larger diameter cylinder. I prefer the way the K-frame balances and handles.

I also have a Model 19 -- the 19 is a blued K-frame, the 66 is a stainless steel K-frame.

Whatever you get, budget a trigger job and chamfering of the chambers. Say about $100.
 
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My wife and I compared these two for her use and went with the GP100 stainless w/3" barrel. Love it, but the S&W action is known for being slightly smoother from the factory. We might get hers worked over. (Still, very happy with it)
 
My uncle has a 586 and I got to try out. I personally think it is one if the most attractive revolvers currently on the market. Trigger IMO was much better than a river gp100........but I have a standard gp100 not the match champion you are comparing so I'm no help there.
 
I am a huge Ruger revolver fan, and have several, including a GP100, that have given many years of flawless service.
I also have a pair of 686s that have sent lots of thousands of rounds downrange.
The two are functionally identical. The differences between the 686 and the GP100 are mostly aesthetic. I would probably give the 686 a few more points for appearance but I wouldn't question someone who voted otherwise.
Some folks find the slightly longer hammer fall of the GP100 objectionable. I don't notice it much either way.

The 686 is quite likely the best .357 revolver that S&W, or perhaps anyone, has ever made.

The K-frame .357 is a historical curiosity and should have been discontinued decades ago.

Jack
 
I have a Ruger match champion and feel it the better choice. I used to be
an S&W fan but have moved to Ruger for revolvers. S&W quality is inconsistent. The match champion is the mist accurate revolver I ever owned b


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If the 586 has the ILS I'd have to give the GP100 Match quite a few additional points.
 
I will probably buy them both eventually but my fear is availability as both companies have had scarce revolver production lately...especially Smith...

Anyone concerned with the huge chunk of steel missing for the Novak style sight on the ruger... It looks like you've only got 3/16 of an inch left...
 
Hopefully I dont get too scolded for this request, but can someone explain the difference between J-frame, K-frame, L-frame, N-frame, etc?


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Took me a while to figure out what my first revolver would be, got a great deal from my LGS on a new unfired trade-in 586. I tossed A LOT of options around....thought I wanted to get a "cool" novelty revolver like a Ruger Super Alaskan 454 casull or S&W 500.

Then I decided I should look at something in 357. Looked at the GP and the 586/686 and looked at standard models as well as performance center ones. The blueing on the 586 is nice, its a sharp gun, I really wanted something classic that's fun to shoot. Really glad with my choice. Put around 100-200 rounds through it and do not regret going S&W on this choice...

clean.jpg
 
You can't go wrong with a Ruger or a S&W, but if your going the S&W way find a nice old one. The new S&W,s are just junk.
 
Hopefully I dont get too scolded for this request, but can someone explain the difference between J-frame, K-frame, L-frame, N-frame, etc?

J-frame is the smallest. It is a 5-shot gun. Examples: 60, 642, 442. J-frames have the worst trigger of the bunch.

K-frame is medium sized. Originally, it was somewhat weak if you fired a steady diet of .357 loads. S&W has rereleased it and the new models are said to be stronger. Examples: 19 and 66. K-frame triggers can be really sweet after a trigger job.

The L-frame is also medium sized. It was designed to be stronger than the K-frame so it could stand up to a steady diet of full power .357. It has a larger diameter cylinder than a K-frame. I prefer the balance of the slightly smaller, lighter K-frame. Examples are the 686.

The N-frame is S&W large frame revolver, used for large calibers like 44 Magnum and 45 ACP. It is noticeably larger in your hand. Examples are the 29, 629, 625.

The X-frame is their largest frame. It is used for crew-served revolvers like the S&W 500.
 
Anyone concerned with the huge chunk of steel missing for the Novak style sight on the ruger... It looks like you've only got 3/16 of an inch left...

Can't comment on that since ours is the 3" version with no rear sight, just a groove.

Was hard to find, as you note. In fact, we had to pick it up on gunbroker from Texas and have it transferred in!
 
My Smith and Wesson arrived today and I have to say that even though I am a diehard Ruger lover, this Smith (made in 82') is a sweet piece of machinery. Deep bluing, solid feel, tight lockup and silky action. I may just open carry it instead of wearing a nice watch. Pics to follow when I get off work.
 
THis picture says it all.... those 'bead blasted" " or Satin Stainless finishes just suck the carbon residue right into the pores of the metal.

I've had both a GP100 match and a stainless 686. Trigger/Action is better on the 686 but to be honest I found the GP100 to be a little more accurate at 25 yards.


GP100 Match Champion is a fantastic firearm. Easy to shoot well. Practically aims itself.
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well the new list came out, and surprise, surprise, the 586-8 is on the list!!!!! just bumped to the top of my purchase list, the hunt is on.....
 
K-frame is medium sized. Originally, it was somewhat weak if you fired a steady diet of .357 loads. S&W has rereleased it and the new models are said to be stronger. Examples: 19 and 66. K-frame triggers can be really sweet after a trigger job.

When did they bring the 66 back? This is the first I heard of it, but it is in fact on the website.
 
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