Tools for AR

peterk123

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I have picked and prodded at my AR15 over the past couple of years. I am amazed at its simplicity and how well thought out everything is. I'm to the point where I could probably pull it all apart and reassemble it. So, I'm finally thinking it's time to build one.

What are the must have tools that I should be looking for? I've got punches, hammer, torque wrenches, and the basic ar wrench/multi tool thing.

I'm guessing a lower and upper vice block. Do you lap your receivers? What else?
 
For what you don't already have (assuming you have roll pin punches not just flat pin punches), I'd get a good vise block for the mag well and then one of the Midwest Industries receiver rods. I've used the clamshell POS items in the past, and learned to hate them. I know some people use the blocks that you pin the upper into (via the takedown and pivot pins) but that just doesn't sit well with me. I've had excellent results using the MI rods for both AR15 and AR10 pattern uppers (yeah, got both). Being all steel means I have zero worries about wearing them out.

For the lower block I got the NFA item from Joe Bob Outfitters (got the same for AR10, AR9 and AR45).

They also have the MI receiver rods.

I've never lapped my AR receivers.

Also, depending on the handguard, you won't need the AR wrench for much. The better handguards use wrench flats on the barrel nuts. Get a crows foot wrench in the correct size and you're golden. I've also recently purchased a buffer tube castle nut wrench from Classified Defense. Very solid item and easy to use. Actually easier to use than one on an AR wrench.
 
Magpul AR wrench and Magpul BEV block I use all the time, in addition to punches, torque wrench, breaker bar, and basic tools (screw drivers, channel locks, etc). Also rocksett, thread locker and permatex anti seize.
 
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Don’t lap.

I’ll throw in grease, Blue and red thread locker, and rocksett, and the knowledge of where to use each. Torque screwdriver and decent flathead, torx, and hex bits.

Most of this is for optics, accessories and muzzle devices.

There’s a roll pin tool for the bolt catch that’s really convenient if you only have two hands. Sits over the side of the lower and holds the pin where it needs to be so you can easily install it.
 
For what you don't already have (assuming you have roll pin punches not just flat pin punches), I'd get a good vise block for the mag well and then one of the Midwest Industries receiver rods. I've used the clamshell POS items in the past, and learned to hate them. I know some people use the blocks that you pin the upper into (via the takedown and pivot pins) but that just doesn't sit well with me. I've had excellent results using the MI rods for both AR15 and AR10 pattern uppers (yeah, got both). Being all steel means I have zero worries about wearing them out.

For the lower block I got the NFA item from Joe Bob Outfitters (got the same for AR10, AR9 and AR45).

They also have the MI receiver rods.

I've never lapped my AR receivers.

Also, depending on the handguard, you won't need the AR wrench for much. The better handguards use wrench flats on the barrel nuts. Get a crows foot wrench in the correct size and you're golden. I've also recently purchased a buffer tube castle nut wrench from Classified Defense. Very solid item and easy to use. Actually easier to use than one on an AR wrench.
Thank you!

Don’t lap.

I’ll throw in grease, Blue and red thread locker, and rocksett, and the knowledge of where to use each. Torque screwdriver and decent flathead, torx, and hex bits.

Most of this is for optics, accessories and muzzle devices.

There’s a roll pin tool for the bolt catch that’s really convenient if you only have two hands. Sits over the side of the lower and holds the pin where it needs to be so you can easily install it.
Lapping is unnecessary? I just figured if there is one place you need a perfect fit, that's the spot.
 
I recently needed to drive the bolt catch pin out of a lower. Just used one of my roll pin punches (Tekton brand) without any trouble at all.

Wheeler and Real Avid both make quality inch pound torque wrenches for use with mounting scopes and other items. Just be sure to follow instructions for all torque settings (for everything). Some things can be done by feel (some barrel nuts won't work with torque numbers due to having the gas tube run through them at least partially). I have the Real Avid torque wrench for optic mounting as well as one of their gunsmith screwdriver sets (a butt-load of bits and handles, one with LEDs inside for illuminating what you're working on).

I also setup my gun wrenching bench with a 1/2" thick piece of rubber over the top (12"x24"). Makes things better when I just need to tap things in, where it's long enough to NOT fit on a small plastic block.

Depending on how far down the gun wrenching rabbit hole you slide down, your tool set will grow more than a bit. I know from personal experience. I've even picked up a pistol sight pusher/remover (Wheeler) so I'm not rapping on sights with a hammer and punch.

Also, a good set of Allen wrenches will be useful (for more than just on guns). I have more sets than I want to count. Regular T handle sets, long T handle sets (inch and commie) plus normal (again inch and other) 90 degree plus ones that have the ball end for hard to align screws. Plus the Wheeler set that includes inch, other, and Torx sizes.

I mostly use blue Loktite on screws. Never needed and red or the Rockset stuff.

BTW, the lower block I linked can be used so that the lower is on it's end. Useful for when you want to drive out bolt catch pins. ;)

Also, look to get a 1/4" clevis pin from your local hardware store. Makes getting pivot pins installed a LOT easier. But don't forget the gallon baggie to go over that so when something goes airborne, you can catch it. I recently forgot to mind the buffer catch on a lower and launched it and the spring somewhere in my basement shop area. Luckily, I had another from a lower that won't be getting rebuilt. At some point, I'll probably order up one or two to have as spares.
 
Lapping is unnecessary? I just figured if there is one place you need a perfect fit, that's the spot.
Barrel fitment in AR uppers is Tuco level tight.
tries meth GIF

Once the barrel nut it secured (properly) it won't move. The barrel will flex (harmonics, or whatever it is) when you send a round more than any movement within the upper. I know they sell lapping kits for scopes. IF you're building something for ultra precision, that MIGHT be worth doing. Then again, not many go for that level in the AR platform (IMO).
 
Thank you!


Lapping is unnecessary? I just figured if there is one place you need a perfect fit, that's the spot.
Depends on the upper and application. If the surface that meets the shoulder on the barrel is smooth and flat I leave it alone. If I see a lip or other machining artifacts or if the finish is rough, I'll lap a little. I'm just knocking down high spots. Haven't had to do that for Aero upper receivers lately.
 
do we have a tool loan section anywhere here? I've got an upper and lower block. I could USPS them to you and you could send it back after you've assembled yours. I've loaned go/ no go gauges before.

makes me curious if anyone has got an ar10 upper block? I need to torque a barrel nut lol
 
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