Vehicle Undercoating

[Coda]

Lol. Yup. Lots o rust. Hopefully it’s slows it up a bit with this stuff.

That is not bad at all. If you keep up on the undercoating you have nothing to worry about.

 

[robjax]

That is not bad at all. If you keep up on the undercoating you have nothing to worry about.

Agreed. I should have started in 2019 when I got the truck. Water under the bridge and all.

 

[Coda]

for $325 I guess thats what you get, I would want the tire dropped , those wheelwell liners removed and even pop out the head light and tail light assemblies the cost will go up for all that though. In the end if your happy thats all that matters

Not necessary. Fluid Film creeps. I have sprayed it in the lower rust proofing holes of my door. Then I needed to pull the interior panel to work on a speaker and it had defied gravity and crept upwards!!!

 

[Coda]

I used to pull the tail lights out of my 2013 every spring for the big spring rinse. I was always amazed how much silt and crap got up there.

Right, but rust around the tail lights is really not a major concern. It is the structural things that I am keeping up on. If silt and crap can get in there, then Fluid Film can also.

 

[Coda]

The sad thing is that we can do better but it’s not as profitable.

Yup, it is called "planed longevity"

 

[HorizontalHunter]

Right, but rust around the tail lights is really not a major concern..

That’s not why I did it. On my 2013 it allowed unimpeded access to the full length of the interior of the bedside to hose it out. I was always surprised at how much sand and silt was on the driveway after the big spring flush.

It will be interesting to see how the aluminum body on my Super Duty holds up.

Bob

 

[Woodsloafer]

That’s not why I did it. On my 2013 it allowed unimpeded access to the full length of the interior of the bedside to hose it out. I was always surprised at how much sand and silt was on the driveway after the big spring flush.

It will be interesting to see how the aluminum body on my Super Duty holds up.

Bob

The aluminum will hold up fine (look at all the Grumman U.S. mail trucks, UPS trucks, aluminum trailers and truck beds/bodies, etc. on the road that don't have any rot), but you still need to protect the steel frame, etc.

 

[Laderbuilt]

I have been thinking about using a airless paint sprayer to apply the Woolwax/NH oil. I have my eye on one from harbor freight. Has anyone else used an airless sprayer, if so what nozzle did they use?

 

[Coda]

I have been thinking about using a airless paint sprayer to apply the Woolwax/NH oil. I have my eye on one from harbor freight. Has anyone else used an airless sprayer, if so what nozzle did they use?

Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.

 

[Boghog1]

Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571

This is the way to go, yes you need to crank the PSI up, 40psi isn't going to cut it.

 

[Lucus]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMxCWNUHNoU

 

[GML]

Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571

I have a woolwax setup and it's basically the same

 

[Laderbuilt]

Not sure about Woolwax/NH Oil, but Fluid Film is like paste out of the can. You need to warm it up just to pour it. I don't think an airless would cut it even with a large nozzle.

I got this setup that is designed to spray fluid film. It works good but to get good volume I still have to crank my compressor up to around 100psi.

I like the (2) wands. One is a straight pattern and the other has holes on the sides (4 @ 90 degrees OC). So that works great for inside frame holes or door bottom drain holes.


View attachment 753571

That’s the same setup I have for Woolwax and NH oil. Woolwax is thicker then fluid film so even a bit more of a pain. I have a 80 gallon compressor putting out 120psi and it sprays fine. It just takes a lot of refilling the bottles to get the job done.
I’ve seen videos on Woolwax website of guys using an airless sprayer and it looks the sweet. But they won’t tell you what nozzle there using. I’ll see if I can find a vid to post.


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YaKK_uXKi8g

 

[Stryker]

I used these guys last fall (in Leominster) on my almost new F150 and it has held up exceptionally well, but expensive ($800 IIRC)
Noxudul which dried solid and a cavity wax treatment - told should come every 2-3 years for touch ups (< $100)

New England Undercoat | Undercoating | Leominster, MA

Undercoating. Rust protection. Truck undercoating. Rhino lining. Call us for an estimate.

www.newenglandundercoat.net

They also sprayed in a rhino bed liner which looks great as well.

 

[Grendizer138]

What do mechanics think of these undercoatings? I can’t even imagine working on a vehicle with an undercoat that dries hard. It’s bad enough trying to chase leaks with the fluid varieties.

 

[Asaltweapon]

What do mechanics think of these undercoatings? I can’t even imagine working on a vehicle with an undercoat that dries hard. It’s bad enough trying to chase leaks with the fluid varieties.

Autobody work after the fact has got to suck.

 

[Grendizer138]

Autobody work after the fact has got to suck.

I don’t know, undercoat is great at hiding bad welds

 

[Boghog1]

Autobody work after the fact has got to suck.

I would rather do body work on steel that isn't rotted, it's easier to fix dents than it is rot. Same with mechanical work, I prefer when nuts and bolts can be removed vs being cut with the blue wrench.

 

[Laderbuilt]

Any type of fluid film or oil undercoat is messy to work on the vehicle after it’s done. I had to do my alternator on my Tundra. I was smeared all over my arms and elsewhere with Woolwax. When I was done I had to re coat where I had rubbed it off but end of the day it’s not bad. Washes off your skin easily enough.