Vehicle Undercoating

I would like to get my car done but I don't think it would be effective unless they drop the battery to get access.
And I seriously doubt any shop is going to go near a 400V 64kWHr pack that's rated for a 375 amp output.
 
Tried this today, 5 cans used for a Yukon, that was showing signs of early rust. It spays well, good coverage, instant penetration, very low odor.
The youtube tests done, states that for a lanolin, it does not wash off the car as easily as the fluid film does. I tried fluid film a few years ago, and it washed off quickly.
Time will tell, but I had some over spray on my bare arms, hair, and hands. After taking a hot shower, with multiple scrub soap washings, I could feel the stuff was still on my hands and arms.
Application, wise, I have tried many over the years, and this is the best stuff yet, for ease of operation.
Where did you purchase this product? Thanks!
Mitch
 
Waxoyl or Woolwax. IMO both would work with excellent results long term IF you are keeping it.
If your plan is roll it over for something else in 3-5 years then why bother.

In the past, and most likely, I run this vehicle until it's past its prime and then it becomes a spare until its absolute garbage and i sell it for barely above junkyard prices. I like having 2 or 3 on the road... Also potentially because of the ridiculous state of things in 3 years I realize I can trade in at 80% of what I paid, never done that but I suppose is in a ballpark of possible, certainly not my plan.

Whatever the case - may not be worth that $1250 Boss Wax treatment but is certainly worth $300 in a gun+materials and hanging out drinking beers with my buddy for the day to clean/dry/apply - even if I also throw him $200 for spending his Sunday at the shop. Am going to price out my local Waxoyl treatment place too, thinking $800 or less I just let a pro take care of it but $1250 seems insane.
 
If your plan is roll it over for something else in 3-5 years then why bother.

I suspect that a vehicle which was professionally sprayed when new has got to be worth at least twice the cost more of what the protection cost, it certainly would be to me .
 
Point well taken with regard to a dealer trade however the premise remains true the application is value adding unless your belief is that the dealer would not heavily promote the fact to a prospective client..

In all other ‘disposal’ options having the protection would be a huge benefit to
both parties with all vehicles but especially trucks.
 
Point well taken with regard to a dealer trade however the premise remains true the application is value adding unless your belief is that the dealer would not heavily promote the fact to a prospective client..

In all other ‘disposal’ options having the protection would be a huge benefit to
both parties with all vehicles but especially trucks.
I think 99% of any buyers will not pay more because you smothered some sort of sheep secretion on your vehicle.
Heck you might be better off power washing the years of built up sheep oil and showing how nice your underside is.
 
Some northern vehicles we have seen were indistinguishable from deep southern vehicles because of the ‘sheep secretion’ application including the greatest auto oxymoron-the Dodge /Cummins, a million mile plus engine in a sub 100k mile chassis..
 
Yeah except I'm starting to believe the 1st application on a super clean vehicle ought to be a dry curing product (a wax like waxoyl is what Im thinking). Then down the road when your surfaces are no longer so clean, use a lanolin version like woolwax or fluid film.
This was my exact thought, and my plan. Using cosmoline on the new truck (dries waxy), and will probably switch over to woolwax applications a few years down the road.
 
A good video from Rich Rebuilds, but even better is this pinned comment:

As an attorney and performance shop owner I can provide a deep dive on the Clean Air Act for anyone who really wants to read it. So yeah, fair warning, this is gonna be long.

For 50 years the Clean Air Act was understood to apply to vehicles driven on the highway. If you unregistered it (or what we used to call in California "nonop," meaning tiled but non-operational) you could modify the vehicle all you wanted for things like drag racing, truck pulling, etc. But you had to trailer it to events and never drive it on public roads.

Then during the Obama administration, buried in a regulation covering medium duty gasoline engines (think UHaul moving trucks), the EPA issued a "clairification" that ita policy is that once an item receives a certificate of compliance under the CAA, it can never be modified in a way that would cause it to be non-compliant.

The automotive performance industry was outraged because this was anything but a clarification; it represented a massive shift in regulation. According to this new interpretation, you could NEVER modify a car or engine that was once CAA compliant. So all those fox body drag racers? Illegal. Put a junkyard LS in your race car? Illegal. Use a salvage Corvette body on top of a tube frame race chassis? Illegal.

The absurdity here is that the CAA has never applied to purpose built race cars. So if you have a tube frame, carbon fiber body, and all-new billet block, keep on racing. So what the EPA was really doing was pricing grassroots racers out of the market.

With the huge public backlash the EPA backed down. Then Trump got elected and the political winds blew differently, so this was thought to be a non-issue.

Now the Biden administration wants to push electricity so they're back to the Obama era interpretation with a vengeance. Like this channel being lowest common denominator, think of the EPA now as beong highest denominator: When you're building a car, they will apply the environmental regulation applicable to the highest part you're using. So if you have a 1975 frame and a 1980 body and a 1998 engine... you have to comply with the 1998 regulations applicable to your vehicle. All of them.

Were the Model D built from step 1 to keep the EPA happy, they needed to keep either the bread truck's cowl and VIN or the squarebody's becuase over 8600GVWR in the 1980s had no smog regs. Where they screwed up was using the Tesla's VIN.

Same thing with the farm truck: The truck itself has no emissions regulations but the 5.9 Cummins, which came from a light duty diesel, did. Were that truck built with a 1965 medium duty diesel engine (GMC 4-71 or 6-71), the EPA could go pound sand because then the truck and engine are both compliant with the applicable regulations. As in there were no applicable regulations.

Seriousy Rich, call me first....



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRiAtmJv8Pk
 
This was my exact thought, and my plan. Using cosmoline on the new truck (dries waxy), and will probably switch over to woolwax applications a few years down the road.

The Waxoyl system is 2 parts. After more research and testing this what I learned.

What you fog into the places you can't see, as far as I can tell, stays soft. That's their 120-4. It's made to protect and coat completely, but not to resist abrasion. This stuff is clear.

The hardwax is black and cures relatively dry, feels a little tacky but basically is dry. This 2nd step goes onto places that are exposed, that are subject to wear & tear when you drive.
 
According to the July 2021 video review, it is available at Home Depot only. And that is where I got my cans of it last week. I will find the video.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE1_EiZIVHs


Pfft.
I've got zits on my ass that have been around longer than that kid.
He got his first dose of a corporate paycheck and his little "independent" study folded like a cheap house of cards.
I was spraying Fluid Film on my cars when that kid was still in diapers, still no rust today. [smile]
 
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A good video from Rich Rebuilds, but even better is this pinned comment:

As an attorney and performance shop owner I can provide a deep dive on the Clean Air Act for anyone who really wants to read it. So yeah, fair warning, this is gonna be long.

For 50 years the Clean Air Act was understood to apply to vehicles driven on the highway. If you unregistered it (or what we used to call in California "nonop," meaning tiled but non-operational) you could modify the vehicle all you wanted for things like drag racing, truck pulling, etc. But you had to trailer it to events and never drive it on public roads.

Then during the Obama administration, buried in a regulation covering medium duty gasoline engines (think UHaul moving trucks), the EPA issued a "clairification" that ita policy is that once an item receives a certificate of compliance under the CAA, it can never be modified in a way that would cause it to be non-compliant.

The automotive performance industry was outraged because this was anything but a clarification; it represented a massive shift in regulation. According to this new interpretation, you could NEVER modify a car or engine that was once CAA compliant. So all those fox body drag racers? Illegal. Put a junkyard LS in your race car? Illegal. Use a salvage Corvette body on top of a tube frame race chassis? Illegal.

The absurdity here is that the CAA has never applied to purpose built race cars. So if you have a tube frame, carbon fiber body, and all-new billet block, keep on racing. So what the EPA was really doing was pricing grassroots racers out of the market.

With the huge public backlash the EPA backed down. Then Trump got elected and the political winds blew differently, so this was thought to be a non-issue.

Now the Biden administration wants to push electricity so they're back to the Obama era interpretation with a vengeance. Like this channel being lowest common denominator, think of the EPA now as beong highest denominator: When you're building a car, they will apply the environmental regulation applicable to the highest part you're using. So if you have a 1975 frame and a 1980 body and a 1998 engine... you have to comply with the 1998 regulations applicable to your vehicle. All of them.

Were the Model D built from step 1 to keep the EPA happy, they needed to keep either the bread truck's cowl and VIN or the squarebody's becuase over 8600GVWR in the 1980s had no smog regs. Where they screwed up was using the Tesla's VIN.

Same thing with the farm truck: The truck itself has no emissions regulations but the 5.9 Cummins, which came from a light duty diesel, did. Were that truck built with a 1965 medium duty diesel engine (GMC 4-71 or 6-71), the EPA could go pound sand because then the truck and engine are both compliant with the applicable regulations. As in there were no applicable regulations.

Seriousy Rich, call me first....



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRiAtmJv8Pk

This is what I thought years ago.
Also what I took for state inspection of , lets say 1980s vehicles and all the smog pump crap. I have had a few 1980s owners coming in that they failed for no compliant emission equipment or No Smog Pump
No egr valve , converters missing and so on.
From the paper given to one customer,
All vehicle emissions equipment must be complete and functioning
 
Tried this today, 5 cans used for a Yukon, that was showing signs of early rust. It spays well, good coverage, instant penetration, very low odor.
The youtube tests done, states that for a lanolin, it does not wash off the car as easily as the fluid film does. I tried fluid film a few years ago, and it washed off quickly.
Time will tell, but I had some over spray on my bare arms, hair, and hands. After taking a hot shower, with multiple scrub soap washings, I could feel the stuff was still on my hands and arms.
Application, wise, I have tried many over the years, and this is the best stuff yet, for ease of operation.
You messed up if you sprayed it on the frame, you should not use that type of undercoating on the wax coated frames on GM vehicles, it will just break the frame coating down even more. There is a TSB/recall on GM trucks and cargo vans for the frame coating flaking off and rust issues. Get the TSB done by a dealer. If you must spray the frame on a GM vehicle get the black Wurth chassis wax or Eastwood's heavy duty anti rust which is also a wax type product.

Only use fluid film, surface shield, or other lanolin or oil based undercoatings on the bottom of the body or inside of body panels on GM vehicles with the black wax coated frames.
 
That is what I am using, PB Blaster Surface Shield. I understand your wax statement, however I am applying it to 1999, 2003, 2004, 2006 vehicles. Kind of save it or lose it mode. I have tried the wax type and looks well for a year so, but then the wax developes into a hardened layer of dirt/dust, and acts like a shield to hold the moisture in, ending up as a big flake.
With this new "Surface Shield", I have no idea of its performance. Time will tell.
My mode to keeping old vehicles new, is If after coming home, and Any salt on vehicle, I have a hot boiler, and spray everything with hot water.
 
You messed up if you sprayed it on the frame, you should not use that type of undercoating on the wax coated frames on GM vehicles, it will just break the frame coating down even more. There is a TSB/recall on GM trucks and cargo vans for the frame coating flaking off and rust issues. Get the TSB done by a dealer. If you must spray the frame on a GM vehicle get the black Wurth chassis wax or Eastwood's heavy duty anti rust which is also a wax type product.

Only use fluid film, surface shield, or other lanolin or oil based undercoatings on the bottom of the body or inside of body panels on GM vehicles with the black wax coated frames.
I see that GM shit everyday comes off in big flakes with plenty of rust under it. I was not aware of a TSB good to know
 
That is what I am using, PB Blaster Surface Shield. I understand your wax statement, however I am applying it to 1999, 2003, 2004, 2006 vehicles. Kind of save it or lose it mode. I have tried the wax type and looks well for a year so, but then the wax developes into a hardened layer of dirt/dust, and acts like a shield to hold the moisture in, ending up as a big flake.
With this new "Surface Shield", I have no idea of its performance. Time will tell.
My mode to keeping old vehicles new, is If after coming home, and Any salt on vehicle, I have a hot boiler, and spray everything with hot water.
That is what I am using, PB Blaster Surface Shield. I understand your wax statement, however I am applying it to 1999, 2003, 2004, 2006 vehicles. Kind of save it or lose it mode. I have tried the wax type and looks well for a year so, but then the wax developes into a hardened layer of dirt/dust, and acts like a shield to hold the moisture in, ending up as a big flake.
With this new "Surface Shield", I have no idea of its performance. Time will tell.
My mode to keeping old vehicles new, is If after coming home, and Any salt on vehicle, I have a hot boiler, and spray everything with hot water.
Where Im at 2011 truck no heavy rot. Doing a deep clean and rust converter every where I can get it in
Still on the fence to do paint or film ?
 
I'll take a pic next time I'm under there, maybe next week when we are doing a level kit.

My new Colorado got a complete Waxoyl job Friday & Saturday. I decided I was going to value having unlimited time versus a lift, so after a wash (pretty clean after only 180 miles) I put it up on 4 ramps and put cardboard down...

Any paint issues got touched up, stickers got removed, underside dried off (although Waxoyl says, not necessary), and I went at it.

I fogged w/ their gun, attachments, and 120-4 on the inside of the frame, fenders, rockers, anywhere I could get into other than I did skip doors and hood because I just don't feel on this vehicle those were helpful or necessary.

Then the next day I sprayed their Hardwax, same gun, all exposed areas including frame, underbody, leave springs, rear end, shocks, basically whole underside that is exposed to elements.

I'll see how it holds up but seems like a good system, the tools and products apply as advertised. It's good having a couple spray cans to touch up anywhere you missed or places where a spray can w/ a tube is easier/cleaner though too.

This job is neither cheap nor quick. I got the $650 kit after shipping (included a $330 gun and fitting kit) and it took me a good 16 hours. Granted likely 1/2 of that was crawling out from under the truck and having a beer, cleanup, organizing cords and hoses, the process around being able to spray. And I was very meticulous about it.
 
Tried the NH Oil Undercoating …

Due to the fact that I have a beautiful, but VERY expensive ‘paver’ driveway, I was told not to park on it for 2-weeks. Now TWO months later … it will still drip if I leave it out on the pavers, even for a few hours.

It might be a good product, but never again for me!
 
Tried the NH Oil Undercoating …

Due to the fact that I have a beautiful, but VERY expensive ‘paver’ driveway, I was told not to park on it for 2-weeks. Now TWO months later … it will still drip if I leave it out on the pavers, even for a few hours.

It might be a good product, but never again for me!
Had a friend use it. Worse than any British bike ever made.
Holy crap! He couldn’t park it anywhere.
 
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