Vintage smith k frame questions

[shiva916]

Have a family member who is looking to pick up a range revolver. My experience is mainly limited to snub nose variety so figured I'd post to get some opinions for him.

Looking for a 38 special gun, 357 would be a plus but not needed as very unlikely he would shoot it due to cost. A couple in the area have caught his eye. One of which is a late 70's to early 80's model 10 with a semi worn nickel finish, but great mechanically. The other is a post war smith m&p pre model 10. From what I can tell these are basically the same gun just separated by about 35 years or so. The pre 10 is not a victory or anything like that but don't know the exact specs. All things considered if they are in equal cosmetic condition with a similar price tag is one a better buy over the other? Pre 10 has a blued vs nickel finish but similar amounts of wear.

i know these are pretty common but would either be a better piece to have value wise down the line?

i have read of fixed sight 10's being plenty accurate, but would he be better served by an adjustable site model?

thanks for any help. Think both the models above are price around $400, decent? Or better off saving a bit more $ and buy new production?

 

[Picton]

The pre-10 will have a so-called "pencil barrel," pinned in place. The newer version is likely to have a bull barrel. Most folks say the bull barrels can handle +p ammo, while the pencils can't.

 

[RKG]

All other things equal, I'd prefer the blued over the nickle.

 

[shiva916]

Yes, the newer model 10 in nickel is a heavy barrel, the older pre 10 is the standard taper barrel.

as far as the condition i haven't seen them in person but based on what he told me is how i described here. I suppose I'm just more used to seeing worn blued guns with "holster" wear thank nickel which I tend to see in either really good condiition or with really flakey finish leaving it patchy looking.

i don't really get how people come up with these 99-98% or 80% condition assessments. I suppose that all in the eye and opinion of the person looking at them. I've seen guns described as 80% guns with worn blue look much better IMO than others assessed at 90%with pitting and minor rust issues.

from what he said the nickel gun wasn't bad other than a heavy wear spot on one section of the cylinder. I suppose if it really looked bad he could always have the cylinder redone or find a replacement nickel cylinder in better condition.

 

[moparmatt383]

The model 10 is a great shooting gun, but if you have $400 to spend I would pass on both of them and look to get a S&W model 15. It's essentially a heavy barrel 10 with adjustable sights. You can usually find them at gun shows and they price at $350 to $450. I think the older K frames are some of the nicest and easiest to shoot pistols ever made. Anytime I introduce somebody new to shooting I always start them on my 38 Smith.

Matt

 

[mark056]

All K frames made from 1958 on regardless of barrel configuration can handle +P that's from S&W.

I like older ones. Better fit and finish generally. Newer ones, actually better materials and closer tolerances but more tool like and less craftsmanship but nothing wrong with them.

If it's a range gun adjustable sights provide more versatility. If it's for self defense, nothing wrong with a model 10. If you can get a Model 15 for the same money, get the Model 15.

Any Model 10 in good shape and a reasonable price is a winner IMO, and you can't go wrong.

 

[thormx538]

If you want a beater Model 10 to shoot, Bud's has PD trades for $285 (use the Make and Offer feature) with free shipping. I bought one years ago -- rough cosmetically but shot fine, I just couldn't get used to the K-frame grip angle.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/654_910/Used+Guns/Police+Trade-Ins

 

[mark056]

If you want a beater Model 10 to shoot, Bud's has PD trades for $285 (use the Make and Offer feature) with free shipping. I bought one years ago -- rough cosmetically but shot fine, I just couldn't get used to the K-frame grip angle.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/654_910/Used+Guns/Police+Trade-Ins

Interesting, with the number of after market grips available and Tyler grip adapters you should have found something that would work for you. There are probably more grip configurations for K frame Smiths than any other handgun on the planet.

 

[shiva916]

Thanks for the heads up on that. I will pass the info along, I'm guessing condition will be luck of the draw on those.

 

[thormx538]

Interesting, with the number of after market grips available and Tyler grip adapters you should have found something that would work for you. There are probably more grip configurations for K frame Smiths than any other handgun on the planet.

Meh I'm a Glock guy. I honestly haven't liked ANY revolver I've ever shot. Or any semiauto that wasn't a Glock (specifically dislike 1911's and the Sig 226's). I love me some low bore-to-grip height I guess, haha.

 

[M1911]

I would definitely go with adjustable sites.

 

[M1911]

Meh I'm a Glock guy. I honestly haven't liked ANY revolver I've ever shot. Or any semiauto that wasn't a Glock (specifically dislike 1911's and the Sig 226's). I love me some low bore-to-grip height I guess, haha.

Shooting .38 Spcl out of a K-frame like a Model 19 or 66 has so little recoil that the bore height really doesn't matter. There just isn't any muzzle rise. The rounds I was shooting in this video are effectively .38 Spcl +P:



As you can see, recoil isn't an issue.

 

[thormx538]

Shooting .38 Spcl out of a K-frame like a Model 19 or 66 has so little recoil that the bore height really doesn't matter. There just isn't any muzzle rise. The rounds I was shooting in this video are effectively .38 Spcl +P:


As you can see, recoil isn't an issue.

Won't disagree with you about the recoil. That wasn't the issue for me, shooting it just didn't feel right in my hands, I couldn't get a comfortable/secure grip on it with my wrists locked and thumbs pointed at the target, shoulders set, etc... I felt I had to rotate my right hand too far down, and the trigger was too low, so I wasn't pulling it linearly -- I was pulling it slightly up.

I had a 3" 10-5 for a little while, and more recently a J-frame Model 36. Got rid of both and don't miss them.

I'm sure I'll own another one briefly again at some point in the coming years though hahaha.

 

[M1911]

Won't disagree with you about the recoil. That wasn't the issue for me, shooting it just didn't feel right in my hands, I couldn't get a comfortable/secure grip on it with my wrists locked and thumbs pointed at the target, shoulders set, etc... I felt I had to rotate my right hand too far down, and the trigger was too low, so I wasn't pulling it linearly -- I was pulling it slightly up.

1) Install a smaller grip, perhaps.

2) Most people don't use a thumbs-forward grip on a revolver.

3) Get a trigger job done. When it comes from the factory, the trigger pull will be too heavy. A decent trigger job makes huge difference.

4) Dry fire. Lots of dry fire.

I found my Model 66 to be a laser, compared to most of my semi-automatics. It is just really, really accurate.

 

[thormx538]

1) Install a smaller grip, perhaps.

2) Most people don't use a thumbs-forward grip on a revolver.

3) Get a trigger job done. When it comes from the factory, the trigger pull will be too heavy. A decent trigger job makes huge difference.

4) Dry fire. Lots of dry fire.

I found my Model 66 to be a laser, compared to most of my semi-automatics. It is just really, really accurate.

Could be. I bet if I shot a revolver shooter's revolver under their guidance I'd be better off than repeating what I've done twice already (buy revolver, buy ammo, go to range, compare to Glock, be unhappy, sell revolver, buy another Glock)