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Snubby Easy beans. With a 4’x8’ sheet of plum woodLoaded some .38/55 and .44 special and shot them both at the 100 yard silhouette. It was pretty easy with the .38/55 rifle but not so easy with the .44 snub.
Or am I keeping the furnace too hot? Should I STFU and stop caring?So I used lead foil to see the difference in quality vs lyman #2. Then I added lyman ingots and the end result was fugly boolits. I did size them, but my question is will fugly boolits cycle/function well enough? Does powder coating help with a smooth looking finish? I don't really care about looks, I am making these for SHTF and for general fun at the range.
Also, could the deformities be a result of not keeping the cast mold hot enough? Every few minutes I will set it on top of the oven to try to keep it hot
Love it. Low tech is my tech. Any pictures of it?The .38/55 is a Hi-Wall. It's a Browning with crescent butt and octagonal barrel. They don't make it anymore but I think it was called the traditional hunter. It has a Parson Long Scope. I don't think that's around anymore either. It's a pretty low tech combination but fun to shoot.
Lead foil for the most part is pure lead. So its molten point is higher than lyman #2 , your bullets look like a combo of to low alloy temp and to low mold temp.So I used lead foil to see the difference in quality vs lyman #2. Then I added lyman ingots and the end result was fugly boolits. I did size them, but my question is will fugly boolits cycle/function well enough? Does powder coating help with a smooth looking finish? I don't really care about looks, I am making these for SHTF and for general fun at the range.
Also, could the deformities be a result of not keeping the cast mold hot enough? Every few minutes I will set it on top of the oven to try to keep it hot
Thank youLead foil for the most part is pure lead. So its molten point is higher than lyman #2 , your bullets look like a combo of to low alloy temp and to low mold temp.
They will shoot, covering them with a coating is like painting over rust and dents.
if tou dont care coat them and shoot them. If not put them back in the pot and keep trying.
Keep tour foil lead aside for other things , like shotgun slugs and black powder projectiles.
...and the end result was fugly boolits. I did size them, but my question is will fugly boolits cycle/function well enough? Does powder coating help with a smooth looking finish? I don't really care about looks, I am making these for SHTF and for general fun at the range.
Also, could the deformities be a result of not keeping the cast mold hot enough? Every few minutes I will set it on top of the oven to try to keep it hot
also if your not going to coat that lee tumble lube design bullet you will want to get the best mold fill out for the tumble lube grooves to hold the lubeSo I used lead foil to see the difference in quality vs lyman #2. Then I added lyman ingots and the end result was fugly boolits. I did size them, but my question is will fugly boolits cycle/function well enough? Does powder coating help with a smooth looking finish? I don't really care about looks, I am making these for SHTF and for general fun at the range.
Also, could the deformities be a result of not keeping the cast mold hot enough? Every few minutes I will set it on top of the oven to try to keep it hot
I swear I’m going to take you up on that sometime. I need to put that on my short list.Posting pictures is beyond my ability but when my daughter gets back from South Carolina I'll have her do that. You're welcome to shoot it if you ever get up to Harvard or Shirley.
Ah nice. I have the Lee mould on hand right now. It’s a buddies. I was casting and coating some for him. Let me know if you want to try some. It’s around that weight and RNFP also.I'm using a Lyman375449. It's a 264 grain flat nose gas check and I size it to .379. I've tried SR4759 and AA5744 but this rifle likes IMR4227 better.
There are two companies making long scopes, MVA and a cheaper one (forgot the name).The .38/55 is a Hi-Wall. It's a Browning with crescent butt and octagonal barrel. They don't make it anymore but I think it was called the traditional hunter. It has a Parson Long Scope. I don't think that's around anymore either. It's a pretty low tech combination but fun to shoot.
mold not up to tempSo I used lead foil to see the difference in quality vs lyman #2. Then I added lyman ingots and the end result was fugly boolits. I did size them, but my question is will fugly boolits cycle/function well enough? Does powder coating help with a smooth looking finish? I don't really care about looks, I am making these for SHTF and for general fun at the range.
Also, could the deformities be a result of not keeping the cast mold hot enough? Every few minutes I will set it on top of the oven to try to keep it hot
Nice. I really want to get an old Stevens or something that I can make a single shot 38 special or something crazy like a 25 stevens extra long.I have Winchester, Remington and Starline(the shorter one) brass. I's so old I can't remember where I got it but I think I ordered it from Midway. It's not from factory ammo because I've never used any.
nah, just rest it over the melting pot for a few minutesThanks. I was thinking of using one of these to keep it hot, eg every few pours place on stove
View attachment 416136
Or is this overkill?
Not overkill if you already have it.Thanks. I was thinking of using one of these to keep it hot, eg every few pours place on stove
View attachment 416136
Or is this overkill?
yes its over kill, cheap hot plate is better, less fuel, less fumes, more control.Thanks. I was thinking of using one of these to keep it hot, eg every few pours place on stove
View attachment 416136
Or is this overkill?
There are some small tricks people do that claim better performance. You can polish the inside of the powder drop and cone to make powder flow smoother.Question for the dillon/progressive reloading crew
Powder dispensers typically dispense based on VOLUME
Charges and spec are predicated on WEIGHT
There's variation from throw to throw of several tenths of a grain on most powder dispensors due mostly due to variation in the powder itself
Are you progressive loaders just accepting several tenths variation in charges or is dillon powder dispensor somehow a much better mousetrap than RCBS/Lyman etc?
Too bad progressive reloaders dont seem to offer a powder dispensor that is weight based