What did you do in the reloading room recently?

CURA is telling me just under 2 days for 7 - I don't babysit the printer much anymore (sometimes this results in a rather large mess to clean up)

But you are right about it being a favor - even at $10/each it wouldn't be worth the money.

I have several unpublished designs for cycling that I could commercialize but don't because it's not worth the hassle and cyclists are not afraid to spend money (unlike a lot of reloaders)


I can only fit 4 on my bed and Cura told me roughly 36 hours. Even with two cameras, as you said: Mess. and more importantly, wasted time.

What I really want is to print decent grips and such from nylon composites but that means spending time in 3D modeling programs for what I want.
 
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Setup a new 550c yesterday. The powder drop fail safe rod is supposed to have 2 90 degree bends one one end where it hooks to the powder drop assembly, mine had a weird mangled end. No worries, I know they are pumping these things out. I got them on the phone yesterday and they told they'd send me one. Just got a shipping notification for that. I also bought an upgraded primer track plate and that arrived today.
 
View attachment 478074

Test loads for my new Noe mold ready to roll. Noe model # 360-152-SWC-V5 4 cavity gas check. 38 special up first. Hi-tek coat and Hornady gas checks put them around 153-154gr.
Very nice.
Whats your target range for velocity?

Are gas checks needed? I was under the impression that the coating was tough enough to go without them. I have been pushing my pistol loads around FMJ velocities with high tek coated projectiles, and haven't had issues yet.

Helps if you want to rocket them around 12-1400. At least on greased lead. With hy-tek it might be overkill, but won't hinder anything either.
 
Very nice.
Whats your target range for velocity?



Helps if you want to rocket them around 12-1400. At least on greased lead. With hy-tek it might be overkill, but won't hinder anything either.
accuracy first, then chrono. for 38 the gas check wouldn't be necessary, but i make some when i can (3 kids) so between 357, 358 winchester, and a strong possibility of a lever gun in the future, i don't want to stare at a box of plain base projos later on in life.

ps- Spangler, they might be over cooked slightly. first batch of these is usually the figure-it-out method. passes smash and wipe test tho. this coloration is supposed to be the gold
 
Pissed off the wife something fierce earlier today. Stayed in the garage and loaded 200 rounds of 223. Berrys 55gr over some H335. At first I forgot where I put the berrys, ended up finding two boxes of primers and a lower that I forgot about. Probably should argue with her every Saturday now.
 
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What are you using to load these?
I have a PW 800+ with electric drive. Once I make sure everything is working good and check my powder drops, all I have to do is make sure primer drops in and hulls are feeding and put a wad in wad finger without getting MY finger bit and the machine just spits them out.
 
Setup a new 550c yesterday. The powder drop fail safe rod is supposed to have 2 90 degree bends one one end where it hooks to the powder drop assembly, mine had a weird mangled end. No worries, I know they are pumping these things out. I got them on the phone yesterday and they told they'd send me one. Just got a shipping notification for that. I also bought an upgraded primer track plate and that arrived today.
Why are is the primer track not updated on your new press, or is the primer track up grade a non factory upgrade
 
What the idea behind the hollow base projos?
I was told, and assumed it was correct. The hollow base directs the explosion of the powder towards the center of the bullet . Driving it with more concentrated force towards the mass of the bullet. Sounded logical to me.
 
What the idea behind the hollow base projos?
@The Goose might be able to explain better.
HB was used for black powder projectiles to help bump up the bullet to seal the bore better. I believe it had to do with using an undersized bullet that would fit in a fouled chamber but still needed to bump up. Black powder would bump up a solid base bullet too so that might not be all of the reasoning behind it. I know there was some weird bore/groove dimension hold overs from the BP days that when we switched to smokeless they used hollow bases to help expand the base and seal the bore better.


I believe now a days when we see it in jacketed or plated bullets it’s more about keeping the same nose profile as a 125 grain bullet for feeding purposes and taking the weight out of the bottom so the bullet weights 115.

200 grain 45 instead of 230 but it has the same 230 ball profile which should feed through anything. Instead of using a 200 SWC or HP that could be iffy in certain guns
 
Still setting up the new LNL AP - but last night I installed and set-up the PTX expander in the powder drop, installed and set-up the bullet feeder die (w tubes), and fiddled with the seating/taper crimp die.

That taper crimp seems finicky and still needs more tuning, but it's coming along. No rush......just enjoying the process. :cool:
 
Still setting up the new LNL AP - but last night I installed and set-up the PTX expander in the powder drop, installed and set-up the bullet feeder die (w tubes), and fiddled with the seating/taper crimp die.

That taper crimp seems finicky and still needs more tuning, but it's coming along. No rush......just enjoying the process. :cool:
Definitely report back on the PTX expander. I've had my LNL AP since 2013 and I haven't taken the PTX out of the box yet lol.
 
Rebuilt a Rochester Quadra-bog.
Which I haven't done in about 25 years.
At work.
Because all my reloading stuff is packed away and I feel left out.
And thats about that.
First time I rebuilt one of those things, after successfully scraping/flushing all the goo out of the float bowl and freeing up all the little plungers and blasting out all the orifilces, I read the instruction sheet in the rebuild kit about how to set the secondary plate stop screw and was like... I should probably give it an extra quarter of a turn. Maybe half.

Engine idled at like 2,000 rpm with the idle screw backed all the way out, and I think I discovered the carb has to come off the manifold to reach the secondary stop screw...

Not wicked smaht.
 
Still setting up the new LNL AP - but last night I installed and set-up the PTX expander in the powder drop, installed and set-up the bullet feeder die (w tubes), and fiddled with the seating/taper crimp die.

That taper crimp seems finicky and still needs more tuning, but it's coming along. No rush......just enjoying the process. :cool:
I'd consider leaving the PTX out for now. I found it not the easiest to setup and it would be easier without if you are new to reloading. I'd go with expander die in another station and use the case activated powder drop until you get the finished product you want.
 
I'd consider leaving the PTX out for now. I found it not the easiest to setup and it would be easier without if you are new to reloading. I'd go with expander die in another station and use the case activated powder drop until you get the finished product you want.
I agree but I think he wants to use the PTX to free up a station so he can use a case and/or bullet feeder.
 
I agree but I think he wants to use the PTX to free up a station so he can use a case and/or bullet feeder.
I know it's a double edged sword - but I wanted both the lock out die and the bullet feeder in stations 3 & 4.

I went through about 40 cartridges last night on the PTX and think I got it dialed in. The bullets were sitting nicely - now to dial in that freakin' taper crimp.....!

I have yet to drop powder through the PTX - but I think mechanically it's clean and fairly well tuned. Stay tuned.........:oops:

By the way - the Hornady set up video on the taper crimp said the die was already "properly" degreased. Call me a cynic - but I opened it up and it was literally dripping with oil. Go figure.
 
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