What punch set do you recommend?

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So I have two lowers that I have all the parts to build out (got it all together months ago, thank god) and I need to order some punches and a hammer to put it all together now. I saw some bad reviews on midway USA on several sets so I thought I would see what you guys recommend.
 
So I have two lowers that I have all the parts to build out (got it all together months ago, thank god) and I need to order some punches and a hammer to put it all together now. I saw some bad reviews on midway USA on several sets so I thought I would see what you guys recommend.

I built 3 lowers last year with a pretty basic set from Lowes and a small brass hammer from there as well.
 
I'm a tool junkie so I have a nice roll pin set and then a 8 piece punch set (starretts) and then a bunch of old starter punches. Also, if you have old drill bits hanging around you can cut those up and make starter pins--helps a lot for some components.

These are expensive but even if you don't go with these, do get ROLL PIN as well as standard (flat) pin punches:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-punches/=kuh9cw

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-punches/=kuhbrh

Hammer can be just about anything but the premium would be a nice dead blow hammer, which I don't even have one of those, lol!
 
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In what situations would I use roll pin punches over regular punches, and vise versa?

There are "pins" which are solid metal and then there are "roll pins" which are hollow with a slit down the side because they were made by rolling metal to form a cylinder.

So ROLL PIN punches have a dimple on the end to help the punch set properly on the head and not deform the pin as you punch. The standard, flat punches are used for standard, solid pins.

Examples: the gas tube pin is a roll pin and the extractor pin is a solid pin. I probably remove these two the most--not that often but more often than the others.
 
There are "pins" which are solid metal and then there are "roll pins" which are hollow with a slit down the side because they were made by rolling metal to form a cylinder.

So ROLL PIN punches have a dimple on the end to help the punch set properly on the head and not deform the pin as you punch. The standard, flat punches are used for standard, solid pins.

Examples: the gas tube pin is a roll pin and the extractor pin is a solid pin. I probably remove these two the most--not that often but more often than the others.

Very helpful information, thanks!
 
Biggest PITA for me was the trigger guard roll pin. Using a roll pin punch and about 150 whacks, I finally got it in. The bolt catch pin started giving me trouble, but tape on a pair of pliers worked wonders. Rubber mallet for anything else that needed a little convincing.

Make life easy and get yourself a razor and needle nose pliers. For the pivot pin detent, push it in as much as you can with the pliers, then use the razor to finish the job and hold it down. Insert pivot pin and pull out razor.
 
Thanks everyone. I took all the information given and added on what I needed to an order I already had in the works at Midway for some oddball parts that aren't totally depleted yet.
 
I didn't use any 'special' tools to assemble my lower. Don't plan on buying any either.

X2

I assembled most of my most recent lower using a small pick to hold detent springs. For the trigger guard roll pin I beveled the front of the pin with a piece of sandpaper, held it in place with needle nose pliers and tapped the pin w/ a carpenters hammer. When it was started I checked alignment, and used a large flat punch I had to finish it off.

A roll pin punch would probably make things easier, but not entirely necessary.
 
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Also guilty. I am a tool junkie too. Have all three tools/sets listed above. Makes things go much easier.

Here is a hint on the roll pins. Chuck them into a cordless drill, and run them briefly at an angle, against a sharpening stone with a drop of oil. This will take off any burr's in the ends of the pins. Place a drop of oil on the end of the roll pin before you drive them home. They go in much easier.

To touch them up use the Flat Black marker pen (link below) and they look great.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...uper-black-instant-touch-up-pen-prod4942.aspx
 
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99% of negative reviews on anything are from morons that cant read directions. The people that can read, just use it and go about business. From reading those reviews it sounds like they are trying to skip the coating process and finish a whole frame or part. It is good for little dings and scratches, that's it.
 
X2

I assembled most of my most recent lower using a small pick to hold detent springs. For the trigger guard roll pin I beveled the front of the pin with a piece of sandpaper, held it in place with needle nose pliers and tapped the pin w/ a carpenters hammer. When it was started I checked alignment, and used a large flat punch I had to finish it off.

A roll pin punch would probably make things easier, but not entirely necessary.

You could probably cobble one together with a rock and a 16 penny nail if you had to. Myself, I like to have the correct tool for the job. Not only have I assembled several ARs using the aforementioned punches, I've also used them on all types of other firearm builds and repairs.
 
You could probably cobble one together with a rock and a 16 penny nail if you had to. Myself, I like to have the correct tool for the job. Not only have I assembled several ARs using the aforementioned punches, I've also used them on all types of other firearm builds and repairs.

This. The OP asked what to get and there's certainly a spectrum of quality available. If one were to just build ONE and be done for life those cheap kits on midway or brownels would do fine. If you think you're going to be tinkering with this and other guns down the road then do yourself a favor and just get a set of flat and roll pin punches. Add in a gun smith screw driver with a bunch of bits ($30), a pick set ($10), and a hammer ($15) then you're good to go for most tasks.
 
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