Slide moving forward with little or no pressure on the release is another sign of "short stroking". The slide is just barely making it far enough to the rear for the slide stop to engage, and this engagement is partial at best.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
-
Be sure to enter the NES/Pioneer Valley Arms February Giveaway ***Smith & Wesson SD9VE 9MM***
1911 not locking back after last round
- Thread starter *chris*
- Start date
Slide moving forward with little or no pressure on the release is another sign of "short stroking". The slide is just barely making it far enough to the rear for the slide stop to engage, and this engagement is partial at best.
Well it seems to short stroke with the factory 22lb spring and a heavier Wolff 28lb spring so I'm not sure what else to do. I'm just glad they want me to ship it back because I'm tired of tinkering with this gun. Not extremely pleased for a gun that cost over $1,500.
I know it's not the end of the world but I've had less issues with 60-year-old C&R pistols lol.
Last edited:
A lighter recoil spring might be the answer.
PS I would try an 18 lb spring or even a stock 1911 45 ACP 16 lb spring. Use a shock buff to protect the gun and only fire a couples of rounds to check slide stop function.
Last edited:
It's a weird gun firing a cartridge that doesn't belong in an automatic. If you put it into that perspective, the fact that it works at all is pretty amazing. Look at it this way, at least its not a POS desert eagle.
-Mike
MFL stopped renting them because they broke too much. Granted that's a harsher environment than normal but frankly I wouldn't waste my money. It's a gun you buy because it looks cool. After that the allure ends. If you want a .44 magnum you're better off getting a smith or a ruger revolver.
-Mike
No I never ended up sending it back. I went back to the factory 22lb spring as the 24lb spring eventually prevented the slide from locking back occasionally. I may need to cut some coils off? Not sure. Last weekend the 22lb spring worked flawlessly with 60 rounds.
Anyway, this was Coonan's response regarding the burr in the slide stop notch:
We are glad to hear that the slide lock is functioning. The burr is normal wear, every Coonan will develop that. It causes no functional issues as we have seen with Cooonan pistols that have over 40,000 rounds fired.
Thanks,
Tech Team
I was talking with fellow Coonan owners on the 1911 forums and some have used 220 grit sandpaper to smooth down the burr. It just seems ridiculous needing to do that to a gun that costs $1,500+. I guess I'll live with it if it doesn't get worse and the gun continues to function.
I have a separate Coonan thread here:http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/276477-Got-a-new-Coonan-1911-357-magnum/page11
Just to avoid crapping up Chris's thread lol.
Last edited:
Cutting coils on the recoil spring is not necessarily the best option. Better to buy a lower powered spring. This way when you finish you will know for sure what rate spring works. Be careful when removing metal from the "burr". This metal is often work hardened and should be left as is. Remove the work hardened metal and the part will deform again as softer metal has been exposed.
I don't plan on modifying the spring. But the 24lb spring is about an inch longer than the 22 (factory spring), 26, and 28 lb spring so I wasn't sure if it needed to be shortened? I don't have any experience with that so I'm just going to stick with the factory 22lb spring since it seems to be functioning fine lately with that spring. Kinda pissed I spent all this money on new springs lol. Oh well it was worth trying.
Yeah I think I'll leave the burr alone for now. If it gets much worse or the gun stops functioning I'll just send it back to Coonan. Thanks for all the great advice.
Yeah I think I'll leave the burr alone for now. If it gets much worse or the gun stops functioning I'll just send it back to Coonan. Thanks for all the great advice.
Well, I took a bit of a hiatus from this gun, but brought it to the range again today. I bought a new Wolff standard variable power spring, loaded factory 230grain ball ammo and gave it a whirl. I also removed the tw25 grease and replaced it with tw25 gun oil. The two factory mags still don't lock back properly and I don't know the history of these used mags. I also brought along a fairly new 10 round wilson combat magazine. This magazine functioned perfectly, locking back 25 times in a row.
It looks like I have an issue with the metal followers or maybe worn springs? Some off-brand mags I have also didn't work.
SHould I buy some replacement wilson combat springs and followers?
Chris
It looks like I have an issue with the metal followers or maybe worn springs? Some off-brand mags I have also didn't work.
SHould I buy some replacement wilson combat springs and followers?
Chris
Chris
Rather than dick around and try to fix the mags that won't work in your pistol, why not just ditch them and use mags that you know will work. Sounds like you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear? Okay you replace the springs and followers and you still have problems, then what? Why not just start fresh. A lot simpler in the long run IMO.
Rather than dick around and try to fix the mags that won't work in your pistol, why not just ditch them and use mags that you know will work. Sounds like you are trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear? Okay you replace the springs and followers and you still have problems, then what? Why not just start fresh. A lot simpler in the long run IMO.
SJan
NES Member
I recently come to the realization that magazines for any firearm have a finite lifespan. I have a set of tripp research cobra 8 round 1911 magazines that when new ran 100%. 30-40 thousand rounds later they suck. I have a few 10 round tripp mags that have seen less use and they still run. They are great mags, Ill buy them again, they just do no last forever.
I love my Wilson Combat 47D magazines, haven't had a single problem with them.
Rob Boudrie
NES Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 48,966
- Likes
- 36,447
Funny thing - I have the slide stops in most of my 1911 modified so they will not lock the slide back, to avoid any possibility of bumping the slide stop causing a premature lockback (these are 1911s used for match shooting, not carry guns).
Two things. One: mag springs need to be replaced occasionally and they are usually the only parts to fail. Two: Metalform makes the best 45 mags I have ever used. They make mags for Colt and other vendors (Chip McCormick uses their tubes). Metalform mags (New Britain CT) aren't the best mags available, but they are as good as any of the competition for less $. I have some 30 year old eight round mags that work just like new, but I really should repace the springs.
Sweeney
NES Member
Check to see if the magazine follower is actually contacting the slide stop. I had bought two new Colt mags. One worked fine while the other wouldn't engage the slide stop. A slight tweak of the magazine follower resolved the issue.
Rob Boudrie
NES Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 48,966
- Likes
- 36,447
Which is why I rarely do that.
The chambered round acts like a shock absorber slowing the slide as it comes into contact with the barrel. Without it the slide will hit the barrel hood a little harder than it should. I'm not sure but the lower lugs might also take a beating. This is to be avoided with tight fitted match grade guns. I too have heard about "sear bounce" and potential damage to the hammer and sear but haven't the slightest idea how this could happen.
- - - Updated - - -
Just kidding, Rob.
StevieP
NES Member
Had similar issue w/ my Sig TTT1911. Wouldn't lock back after last round. Changed to Wilson mags, and Wilson non-MIM slide stop pin, and it's good now, even with the factory mags.
Rob Boudrie
NES Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2005
- Messages
- 48,966
- Likes
- 36,447
Sear bounce can happen when dropping the slide to chamber a round. It cannot happen when shooting as the sear is not engaged with the hammer when the slide returns while you still have your finger holding the trigger back.
An old school bullseye shooter's trick is to hold the trigger back while dropping the slide. This would also prevent hammer follow on some trigger jobs that would otherewise exhibit then when chambering the first round.
SJan
NES Member
so how did it go?
Well, it seems that the new Wilson Combat mags are perfect. No failures at all. I wonder if it makes sense to replace the slide stop as well just as a precaution. Wilson sells one for $30 so it isn't a huge investment.
Chris
