1911A1 slide fit help needed

oldyankee

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Got this .45 a number of years back but hasn't been used for quite awhile. Decided to put it to use again but while checking it out noticed the slide to frame fit is rather sloppy. What has really got my attention though is that the slide is not flush with the frame when the slide is all the way forward. Could use some help diagnosing possible causes for the condition.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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This is rather strange. Usually a "slide fit" issue is one of the tightness of the rails to the frame. I would look at the fit of the barrel to the slide and frame, as the slide and barrel are locked in relative position by the lugs on the barrel, and this assembly is connected to the frame via the swinging barrel link (they come with different spacing between the holes). It could be that you have a barrel with really bizarre dimensions, or that someone used a way too long barrel link (which is a really bad way to fit a barrel. Although this gives an apparently tight lockup, it will egg the slide stop hole over time).

I can't tell from the pix, but you need to check to make sure the hammer hits the slide stop plate fully and the slide is not so far forward as to prevent full contact.

There is also the possibility that the gun is properly fitted and that this is a stackup of dimensional tolerances from different manufacturer's parts.

You really need to have someone who knows 1911s check this out in person - you either have a non-problem, or one that will only be solved by a bit of real gunsmithing or possibly re-doing the barrel fit.
 
All long distance diagnoses are a bit speculative, but I'd start with a "long link" issue. See Kuhnhausen, p. 65.
 
The lower lugs or " barrel feet" are overcut causing the slide to move forward of the frame.
 
The lower lugs or " barrel feet" are overcut causing the slide to move forward of the frame.
This makes a lot of sense. If this is the case, there is no shortcut other than a new barrel.
 
Not if the gun was worked on by someone who has limited knowledge of the 1911- the Millet sights are a telling sign, bet it has a double crimped front sight too.
 
Not if the gun was worked on by someone who has limited knowledge of the 1911
It is a real "buyer beware" situation out there when it comes to gunsmithing.

I was ROing a stage at Harvard and I noticed the hammer and sear pin on a competitor's gun were starting to work out the right side of the gun. For those of you who are not 1911 nerds, the pins have a flared head that fits into a chamfer in the hole on the left side of the frame and held in place by the safety (a really nice design). These pins were in backwards (!!!!).

This competitor told me that he had a trigger job done by the "gunsmith" at a local gun shop (fortunately for their reputation, I forget which one). Forum member DANS offered his assistance and showed this person how to reassemble their gun properly.
 
barrel feet.
I believe a certain MA factory had a run of 1911s that all did this, but I don't think that company is in question here. EDIT: Never mind. Search through posts, it looks like it was a different issue with the lower lugs.

It is a real "buyer beware" situation out there when it comes to gunsmithing.

I was ROing a stage at Harvard and I noticed the hammer and sear pin on a competitor's gun were starting to work out the right side of the gun. For those of you who are not 1911 nerds, the pins have a flared head that fits into a chamfer in the hole on the left side of the frame and held in place by the safety (a really nice design). These pins were in backwards (!!!!).

That's.... staggering. I don't know how one could do that unless they've never looked closely at a 1911 before.

I'm imagining someone's thumb safety was rubbing a little, and they thought "Hey, I'll just put the pins in the other way! Problem solved!"
 
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1911A1 slide fit help needed: more details

What Greg stated about the lower barrel lugs sounds correct. The piece had been worked on numerous times before I acquired it and I didn't know much about them at the time (not that I know much more now). The gun is a WWII issue Remington, with a Flannery barrel (not original according to serial number of gun). Here's a couple of pictures (other barrel is from an AMT for rough comparison). Appears to be signs of work on the bottom barrel lugs, i.e., looks like some metal was removed - probably too much. Unfortunately, the AMT and Remington barrels will not interchange (different head space extension shape among other things) so I could not swap it in to check the fit. I'll probably order a Kart barrel from Brownell's. BTW, the front sight appears to have been brazed in place with two pins. Thanks for everyone's input.

911_4.JPG 1911_5.JPG
Jim
 
That's.... staggering. I don't know how one could do that unless they've never looked closely at a 1911 before.

I also don't know how "golden screwdriver" types can manage to make 1911s slam fire, or go full auto, either... but I've seen both. It's kind of mind numbing- because there basically has to be a coordinated avalanche of fail for those kinds of things to happen.

-Mike
 
Unfortunately quality control is a problem with many 1911 MFRs. The forward position of the slide is most likely due to a barrel whose lugs have been cut a bit too much, allowing the barrel and slide to travel a little too far forward. Due to the rather forgiving nature of the 1911 design, this should not be a problem. I would just shoot the gun.
 
Barrel lugs are over cut.
You could find this type of work on many of the less expensive 1911's on the market today. Just remember you get what you pay for.
 
I also don't know how "golden screwdriver" types can manage to make 1911s slam fire, or go full auto, either... but I've seen both. It's kind of mind numbing- because there basically has to be a coordinated avalanche of fail for those kinds of things to happen.
I had a 1911 where the hammer started to follow the slide down, which I believe could be the precursor to going full auto or slam fire. This was caused by the crappy ParaOrdnance action parts -- no goonsmithing on my part.
 
hammer follow happens for a couple reasons - could be as simple as not enough tension on the sear spring, or poor sear nose to hammer hook fit to hammer hooks that are too shallow, less than 0.019".
 
Follow-up.
A knowledgeable colleague recommended replacing the barrel and I took his advice. The picture shows that there is now a more normal slide to frame profile. Thanks to all for their replies.
Jim
1911-6.JPG
 
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