.357 revolver CCW for a Beginning Shooter

I am going to give you my opinion, YMMV.

just out of curiosity, why have you chosen .357 mag as your preferred ammo?

Because it was suggested by the instructors of my pistol safety class, and because I had done some reading on the subject, and this ammo was frequently suggested as a good defensive round.
 
just out of curiosity, why have you chosen .357 mag as your preferred ammo?
For sure, the 357 Magnum's recoil is less forgiving of poor technique, but the difference in power between it and the 38 Special +P is not insignificant.

Few police cartridges have the record the 357 Magnum does.
 
Because it was suggested by the instructors of my pistol safety class, and because I had done some reading on the subject, and this ammo was frequently suggested as a good defensive round.

It certainly is a good defensive round in terms of terminal affects. Downside is that it comes with significant flash, report, and recoil, particularly in lighter guns. Not so bad in heavier guns.
 
Thanks again to all for the thoughtful replies. I am going to go with the S&W Model 13, 19, or 65 in 3" or 4". I am having some difficulty finding these. I also plan to acquire a Ruger Single Six for practicing.
 
Whoa.....How did I miss this?

If you want to carry a revolver, .357 Magnum is THE cartridge to use. When you only have six, you gotta make them the most violent six you can stand.

To that end, the prefect platform is a 3" barreled, round butt, fixed sight S&W K frame revolver in .357 Magnum. That gives you two choices: Models 13 (blued steel) or Model 65 (stainless).

Jose, this is extremely helpful. I have a question about it: why did you suggest the Model 13 (fixed sights) as opposed to the 19 (adjustable)? I shot the Model 19 in my safety class and liked it better than all the other guns. I'm wondering if there's a specific reason for the fixed sights.

Again, I can't say enough about how helpful this forum has been to me throughout the process of getting licensed and learning to shoot. An invaluable resource for sure.
 
Thanks again to all for the thoughtful replies. I am going to go with the S&W Model 13, 19, or 65 in 3" or 4". I am having some difficulty finding these. I also plan to acquire a Ruger Single Six for practicing.

Note that a S&W Model 66 is the same as a Model 19, just in stainless steel. It may be easier to find a 66 than a 19.
 
Jose, this is extremely helpful. I have a question about it: why did you suggest the Model 13 (fixed sights) as opposed to the 19 (adjustable)? I shot the Model 19 in my safety class and liked it better than all the other guns. I'm wondering if there's a specific reason for the fixed sights.

Fixed sights are stronger than adjustable sights (less likely to get broken) and less likely to snag on clothing. The fixed sights on some revolvers can be small and hard to use, however.

I, too, like the S&W model 19 and the identical stainless version, the model 66.
 
Thanks again to all for the thoughtful replies. I am going to go with the S&W Model 13, 19, or 65 in 3" or 4". I am having some difficulty finding these. I also plan to acquire a Ruger Single Six for practicing.

Be prepared for the sticker shock for a nice example. Especially the 3" K frames. I just bought a 3" and a 4" model 65 and will have pics soon.

The 3 inch, well, it's a nothing special 65-3 but with the 3 inch barrel it's coveted.

The 4 inch is a 65-2, the last of the pinned and recessed. It was in nice shape so I got it.

Neither were cheap but I have an affinity towards Smith K and J frames.
 
Fixed sights are stronger than adjustable sights (less likely to get broken) and less likely to snag on clothing.
What he said.

Another important aspect is the height of the sights over the bore. I have fixed and adjustable sight revolvers and find that the lower sight height of the S&W fixed sight design makes the pistol a much more natural pointer, which helps tremendously to deliver hits under stress.
 
Thanks again to all for the thoughtful replies. I am going to go with the S&W Model 13, 19, or 65 in 3" or 4". I am having some difficulty finding these. I also plan to acquire a Ruger Single Six for practicing.

If you are going to carry a double action Smith & Wesson revolver, DO NOT waste your money buying a rimfire cowboy pistol to practice. If you want a rimfire analog, you need a rimfire S&W K frame such as the Models 18 or 617.

And before you spend money on a practice gun, you need to know WHAT to practice. So instead of wasting money on a practice gun when you do not know the correct techniques, go buy a case or two of ammo and pay for some training with one of the several trainers in the New England area.

Pardon me for being so blunt, but new shooters simply do not know what they do not know.

I remember one of the training classes I went to soon after getting my concealed handgun license. Some of the students were SO BAD that they would not have lasted 5 seconds in a gunfight. Their techniques were horrible. Their grip on the gun so bad that the gun moved all over their hand during recoil making fast follow up shots impossible, trigger control so atrocious that they only managed five or six shots in the vital area out of a 15 round magazine, their reloading techniques so horrid that I could reload my revolver faster than they could their semi autos, and absolutely no idea of how to clear a malfunction.
 
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If you are going to carry a double action Smith & Wesson revolver, DO NOT waste your money buying a rimfire cowboy pistol to practice. If you want a rimfire analog, you need a rimfire S&W K frame such as the Models 18 or 617.

Interesting. You are the first person who has advised against this. I hope more people offer their opinions also.
 
I'm looking for a way to practice frequently and inexpensively, so I'm interested in any suggestions for that too. I'm demanding, I know!
 
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I'm looking for a way to practice frequently and inexpensively, so I'm interested in any suggestions for that too. I'm demanding, I know!

Start reloading. A rimfire version of your defensive handgun fails to deliver one critical element: recoil. You need recoil to tell you if your technique is right. You could be a kick ass shooter with a 617 loaded up with .22 Long Rifles and not hit the broad side of a barn with a Model 19 loaded with .357 Magnums, all due to the brutal difference in recoil between the two.

And I cannot emphasize this enough. Before you can have meaningful practice, you MUST train so that you understand what you need to practice.
 
A 17 or 617 is a good training aid. It's meant to augment, not replace the 19 or 66.I own and shoot all of the above. It has been said that a .22 won't duplicate the recoil of a .357 and that's true. You need to shoot the centerfires but the .22 can help you with sight alignment, trigger control and muscle memory.
 
I don't have a problem with someone using a .22lr to practice. But a single-action revolver is not good practice for a DA revolver. Get a S&W 617 instead of the Ruger.
 
Just because of this thread I did a bit of poking around and it seems that there is quite a few police 3in model 65's trade-ins hitting the market. Search around. You will see them advertised.
 
If you are going to carry a double action Smith & Wesson revolver, DO NOT waste your money buying a rimfire cowboy pistol to practice. If you want a rimfire analog, you need a rimfire S&W K frame such as the Models 18 or 617.

And before you spend money on a practice gun, you need to know WHAT to practice. So instead of wasting money on a practice gun when you do not know the correct techniques, go buy a case or two of ammo and pay for some training with one of the several trainers in the New England area.

Pardon me for being so blunt, but new shooters simply do not know what they do not know.

I remember one of the training classes I went to soon after getting my concealed handgun license. Some of the students were SO BAD that they would not have lasted 5 seconds in a gunfight. Their techniques were horrible. Their grip on the gun so bad that the gun moved all over their hand during recoil making fast follow up shots impossible, trigger control so atrocious that they only managed five or six shots in the vital area out of a 15 round magazine, their reloading techniques so horrid that I could reload my revolver faster than they could their semi autos, and absolutely no idea of how to clear a malfunction.

Jose - stellar advice...However many green boxes I have are inbound...
 
Interesting. You are the first person who has advised against this. I hope more people offer their opinions also.

While I really like Ruger single action revolvers and probably shoot them more than any other firearm, I would have to agree that it's not the best substitute for practice on a double action snubbie.

I have an older Colt Agent that I slowly got better at as long as I was firing it signle action, ie pulling the hammer back and then pulling the trigger. As soon as I tried switching to double action, the little revolver moved all over the place.

When upgrading to a new snubbie, I went for the Ruger LCR, which is double action only. This way I not only stay consistent by always shooting double action, but the double action on it is much easier than the Colt ever was. My decision was based on the assumption that I would be firing double action only if I were in trouble.

I realize that a 357 is spicier than a .38spl +P, but I'm sure a lot of that is lost when it comes to such a short barrel. I can shoot .44 magnums out of my big Ruger without problems, and a .44 magnum out of a 7 inch barrel is an outstanding defensive round. However, I am not as skilled as others here as concealing one. That leaves me with pocket carrying a 357 or 38spl snubbie.

I found shooting 38spl out of the LCR is WAY more manageable than firing .357 out of an airweight, so for me an LCR or other double action only snubbie in .38spl makes more sense.

If you can handle a lightweight 357 as well as a 38, then go for it by all means, but for me, the additional recoil, noise, and flash just made it that much harder to control followup shots.
 
Some great advice here. Bottom line to me... .357 is a great caliber to carry. It is a matter of taking the time to train and get familiar with it.

When I started shooting heavy .357 loads in a heavy Ruger GP100, it was quite a handful. Now, years and many thousands of rounds later, I can shoot .357 Magnum quite well from a snub Model 640 and not mind the recoil. It happened overnight (20 years) I just kept shooting until it was so natural that it doesn't bother me. Take your time and practice.
 
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