The Bambu printers are awesome.
I had zero 3d printing experience so I jumped into a P1s AMS combo. Nothing but success.
I had zero 3d printing experience so I jumped into a P1s AMS combo. Nothing but success.
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3D printing
- Thread starter NH Phantom
- Start date
walter62
NES Member
Yes, I had the same experience. Was printing within 20 minutes of unboxing it.
Currently working on the BF556 bullet feeder.
Currently working on the BF556 bullet feeder.
i've been eyeing one too. But my anker is still working fine for now
walter62
NES Member
Then I guess you don't own more than 1 gun 
edin508
NES Member
You are going to love it! I have a P1S rocking.
walter62
NES Member
Today's work
walter62
NES Member
yes, casefeed plate. checking fit pre-glue
walter62
NES Member
Long story but actually probably dont need it.
Been trying to load 460SW which is about as long as 223 and the casefeeder has been a
PITA. Wanted to try a small rifle plate w/o dropping $55 on one.
I found print files for all of the feeder plates and then printed out
(in quarters cuz the printer isn't big enough).
Been trying to load 460SW which is about as long as 223 and the casefeeder has been a
PITA. Wanted to try a small rifle plate w/o dropping $55 on one.
I found print files for all of the feeder plates and then printed out
(in quarters cuz the printer isn't big enough).
Fixxah
NES Member
Whose case feeder are you running? And which bonding process are you employing to join the quarters together? Based on the weight of a load of brass on the plate, will there be reïnforced where glued?
Personally, I'd incorporate the raised bosses as the split point, print it with ABS and then solvent-weld the segments. There are tools now (e.g. Netfabb) to break up designs for printing while incorporating overlaps, alignment pins, etc to ensure alignment before glueing. Or if you started with CAD, you could design in dovetails (e.g. in Fusion360).
In the Dillon design, shell plate it really doesn't need to be strong, as the backside is fully supported:
Aren’t you building the bf556 one?
walter62
NES Member
Yes, I am currently printing out the BF556 which I plan to use for bullets.
The Dillon casefeeder is used for brass and like I said, this small rifle plate is
kind of an experiment as the 460 brass is giving me a hard time w/ the large rifle plate.
Bonding and support? well, I kinda f'd up and didn't put connectors on the edges of the
quarter so it'll be just a flat surface join w/ acrylic cement (#16) which should really be able to
hold it. I dont think it'll be a big deal and worse case scenario, I reprint w/o a couple of newb
errors that crept in during the split & print.
This is the cement I'm using.
The Dillon casefeeder is used for brass and like I said, this small rifle plate is
kind of an experiment as the 460 brass is giving me a hard time w/ the large rifle plate.
Bonding and support? well, I kinda f'd up and didn't put connectors on the edges of the
quarter so it'll be just a flat surface join w/ acrylic cement (#16) which should really be able to
hold it. I dont think it'll be a big deal and worse case scenario, I reprint w/o a couple of newb
errors that crept in during the split & print.
This is the cement I'm using.
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it may hold, but when plate gets caught sometimes - it is a lot of stress there. still, a fun thing to do, why not.
i would redo the model and made it more aggressive for a joint, like a biscuit or a dovetail, even. so the pieces would snap together like a jigsaw puzzle and hold mostly by friction, with glue just preventing them from dislocating.
walter62
NES Member
As I previously indicated, this is a bit of a test to see if the small rifle plate works better
than the large rifle plate and yes, I ack. there should be pins/dovetails/etc, thats why this
is test & development.
If so, I'll reprint when it breaks
Very much noob w/ 3D printing so there are/were issues
w/ the print.
than the large rifle plate and yes, I ack. there should be pins/dovetails/etc, thats why this
is test & development.
If so, I'll reprint when it breaks
Very much noob w/ 3D printing so there are/were issues w/ the print.
walter62
NES Member
After gluing, I really dont think the glue will fail before something.
This cement is remarkably strong. And yes, I'm aware that 2 of the panels
have printing artifacts and some pins/connectors would be better.
Made a 20% version w/ non-90 degree planar cuts (on the reinforcement lines) just for test/fun
This cement is remarkably strong. And yes, I'm aware that 2 of the panels
have printing artifacts and some pins/connectors would be better.
Made a 20% version w/ non-90 degree planar cuts (on the reinforcement lines) just for test/fun
more likely than not it will work fine.
if you really want to broaden your horizons
- keep an eye during black friday time on prices for k1 max creality printers.it would fit this whole plate fine.
keep an eye for price drops closer to $500, it is absolutely worth the money if price goes down. ignore all the combos, all you need is just a barebone printer.
i can explain later then what to do to make it perfect and how to get rid of creality shit.
essentially, you use orca slicer with orca profiles for it, root it and run a script from this place:
GitHub - Guilouz/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki: Wiki for Creality Helper Script
Wiki for Creality Helper Script. Contribute to Guilouz/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
there is nothing else right now on the market, except of handmade vorons that would be so simple to use and without any cloud crap.
this sale is also not bad, but it is not the lowest price that i had seen. it is odd that they call it a BF sale, may be it is a trend now to begin it a month ahead.
namedpipes
NES Member
New 3D Printer Software Will Call the Cops on Guns
this is too far fetched, but, to use any stock software based on cloud features would be rather incredibly stupid.
first thing you do - you cut off this umbilical cord. and if printer does not allow that and locks you into a proprietary workflow with uploads and internet communications - do not buy such a printer.
Consumers tolerate televisions spying on what they watch by inspecting the pixels on the screen, so they'll also tolerate their 3D printers tattling on the authorities by passing everything they print through a cloud expert system to guess if it is a gun part or not.
The solution to "jailbreak" a printer is the same as for a car -- load a custom firmware that eliminates the guardrails, disable the radios, or even replace the controller entirely.
The solution to "jailbreak" a printer is the same as for a car -- load a custom firmware that eliminates the guardrails, disable the radios, or even replace the controller entirely.
And my New Hampshire cops will... do nothing? Ask how much I want to print some parts for their personal arms?
namedpipes
NES Member
My printer is an antique Anet A8 (and another one with aluminum frame to build). One fine weekend I'll finish dusting it off and see if it still works. It printed several liberators without ratting me out.
I plan to eventually upgrade with a more off-the-shelf platform and this telemetry will be part of my purchase criteria...
namedpipes
NES Member
As they should. Do nothing that is.
the more it goes forward, the more difficult it will be to get rid of it.
like i stopped updating firmware on my dji drones a while ago and will not be buying any new ones, as they require now a lot of interesting things to be there and be online at all times, so it could transmit out to who knows whom who knows what about what is it you do and where and why.
cockpitbob
NES Member
Since my Trump chamber flag Karma was so well received, here's the .stl file. Print it in PETG or other high temperature material so it won't soften in a hot barrel. It's not the greatest likeness but it will get chuckles at the range.
You can also find it here on Thingiverse.
You can also find it here on Thingiverse.
walter62
NES Member
Thanks Bob!
I even have one that coordinates w/ it!
I even have one that coordinates w/ it!
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VetteGirlMA
NES Member
Have any of you guys tried resin printing yet? I bought a Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra and an Elegoo Mars 4 ultra resin printers and what comes out of a resin printer is way more detail than what I can get from the Creality PLA printer. I've mainly used the resin printers for printing miniatures and smallish statues. Currently I'm printing a resin statue of the Martian alien from Mars Attacks. The Saturn 3 prints with amazing resolution, like looking under a microscope to see the detail resolution.
I like the results of resin printing, but not the chemicals and sticky mess.
Most of what I print are functional prints, like wall switch plates and cases for low-voltage electronics, stuff where super-fine detail isn't needed but strength and impact-resistance is. So I stick with FDM, mostly ASA filament.
VetteGirlMA
NES Member
I have an air filtration system that connects to the printer. It's made specifically for resin printers. It has active charcoal filters and can remove all of the odors. I also have separate washing and curing stations. The Mars printer is kept in it's own enclosure.
But the thing for me is the resolution is hard to beat. Resin printing preserves the dimensions nicely but to get it just right does take some practice.
I do a lot of resin printing, it can be a mess. Did you get a wash and cure station as well?
