3D printing

[paul73]

Are you using the probe?
If so then nozzle height during the bed level doesn't matter - you are just setting the bed parallel to the nozzle travel.
You need to set the z offset

It is what I was doing.

Walls and layers are printing great. But one corner - left one, seems like got lifted up from the bed. Wander why.
It was a standard quality print at .2mm per layer.

Overall all seems fine, and I printed 2 other things that did not have lifted corner issues.

 

[pastera]

Lost adhesion and curled.
Clean the bed - dish soap and hot water.
Try not to touch it and get skin oils on it.

 

[paul73]

Lost adhesion and curled.
Clean the bed - dish soap and hot water.
Try not to touch it and get skin oils on it.

I ordered that $9 hair spray- is it supposed to help with glass bed? Or useless?

 

[NH Phantom]

I ordered that $9 hair spray- is it supposed to help with glass bed? Or useless?

Are you using a flat glass bed? I use window glass. wash it with alcohol first. (the first time) aquanet hair spray is the best. and as pastera said, you need to adjust the z axis

 

[pastera]

I ordered that $9 hair spray- is it supposed to help with glass bed? Or useless?

It likely will but why spend the money

Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Hairspray, Unscented - 11 oz

An iconic, cult-favorite hairspray that has been the professional's choice of hairspray for over 50 years. Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Hairspray is formulated to provide greater holding power for hairstyles that demand superior control. The long-lasting for

www.riteaid.com

https://www.target.com/p/elmer-39-s-2pk-washable-school-glue-sticks-disappearing-purple

 

[pastera]

Playing around with with some fun stuff
My bend jig is forming the rails too narrow by just under 2mm which is causing fit issues.
I need to change the flats to fix a width issue so might as well have the laser shop also quote the bends and get 20 or so done...

 

[scheming]

Aquanet is $1.25 @ dollar tree.
Again, do not use any alcohol to clean the stock glass bed. It has a coating on the top side. Makes a mess if you do and it'll never work right again.

Best solution for me was switch to PEI bed. Sticks to print like glue when hot, self releases when cold. Haven't had any warping or adhesion problem with either PLA or PETG.

 

[pastera]

Aquanet is $1.25 @ dollar tree.
Again, do not use any alcohol to clean the stock bed. It was a coating on the top side. Makes a mess if you do and it'll never work right again.

Glass bed is okay for isopropyl on the glass side.
Powder coat side should be okay with isopropyl but dish soap works fine so that's what I stick with

 

[scheming]

Glass bed is okay for isopropyl on the glass side.
Powder coat side should be okay with isopropyl but dish soap works fine so that's what I stick with

The new glass beds released by Creality last year are different. The "textured" side cannot have any alcohol used on it, it will come off as a sticky yellow residue, ruining it. The bottom plain glass side is fine. Stick with soap and water or get a pane of glass from lowes

 

[pastera]

The new glass beds released by Creality last year are different. The "textured" side cannot have any alcohol used on it, it will come off as a sticky yellow residue, ruining it. The bottom plain glass side is fine. Stick with soap and water or get a pane of glass from lowes

Good to know - mine is a few years old and pretty much bulletproof.
Have glass on my X5SA Pro that's okay but needs help with nylon and abs (gluestick works perfectly)

 

[paul73]

Aquanet is $1.25 @ dollar tree.
Again, do not use any alcohol to clean the stock glass bed. It has a coating on the top side. Makes a mess if you do and it'll never work right again.

Best solution for me was switch to PEI bed. Sticks to print like glue when hot, self releases when cold. Haven't had any warping or adhesion problem with either PLA or PETG.

frosted or smooth one?
Amazon product ASIN B07XBM24HNView: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Flexible-Heated-235x235mm-Ender/dp/B07XBM24HN

 

[pastera]

Sharp corners are always a stress point
A brim will help with corners pulling but your failure was more likely due to a dirty bed surface.
I found that it takes some printing and a few cleanings to settle down

 

[scheming]

frosted or smooth one?
Amazon product ASIN B07XBM24HNView: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Flexible-Heated-235x235mm-Ender/dp/B07XBM24HN

Smooth for PLA or if you want a glass like finish. But it sticks so well, sometimes it might not release PETG or ASA without some trouble. I use textured, the bottom of the print will be speckled, but works for everything.
TLDR: Textured: sticky. Smooth: sticky sticky

Don't feel like you have to get PEI. Glass works great for many people, I just prefer it and it's the "new favorite" in the hobby

 

[pastera]

Always use a release agent with PETG - gluestick is best but hairspray works
Destroyed flex bed early on in the learning process.

 

[paul73]

Don't feel like you have to get PEI. Glass works great for many people, I just prefer it and it's the "new favorite" in the hobby

i am not doing anything just now. i still print that sample pla material, and somehow i got it work very well with a 215 deg nozzle and 65 deg board.
sticks well this way - and i print an another dillon part.

a bit odd as the 'ideal' pla is supposed to be at 200/50 temp, but it did not work for me with those tests i did this evening.
right now it goes well, does not get off the glass, at 120% speed, 0.2mm layer. nice new toy, i like it, and prints very smooth.

i have it with the steel nozzle - may be that is the factor too, for liking higher temp, dunno.

 

[paul73]

can be seen on the image above how filler cross sections stopped popping up like on the image in post #83.
i raised it from Z offset -.79 to -.76 and boosted temps. seemed to work. fun.

the steel nozzles i got - looked at reviews, a lot of people complaint about them to be too narrow - but i checked them, and all were fine.
are they ok for carbon filament? as that will be the next step. i ordered dryer as well.

Amazon product ASIN B089ZY11DDView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089ZY11DD

 

[pastera]

Yes, hardened steel is is what you need for filled filament.

 

[scheming]

Always use a release agent with PETG - gluestick is best but hairspray works
Destroyed flex bed early on in the learning process.

I had PETG stick so well on plain glass that even 2 hours in the freezer didn't help. Had to pry it off with a spatula. Did that a couple times. Tried both glue and hairspray as a release agent but it became too much of a hassle. Jumped to PEI and haven't looked back.

 

[scheming]

a bit odd as the 'ideal' pla is supposed to be at 200/50 temp, but it did not work for me with those tests i did this evening.
right now it goes well, does not get off the glass, at 120% speed, 0.2mm layer. nice new toy, i like it, and prints very smooth.

My default PLA temp is 215c first layer then 210c. But I've gone as high as 225c for some to print well.
Great to hear that you're getting good prints and enjoying the printer.

 

[NH Phantom]

I use 215 nozzle and 65 bed for PLA

 

[paul73]

Yes, hardened steel is is what you need for filled filament.

ok, so i have a stupid question then - if steel is all around better, why they make all stock nozzles from brass? even in reviews people say that quality of prints is much better with those steel nozzles. what`s the point to use brass at all?

 

[Kevin_NH]

ok, so i have a stupid question then - if steel is all around better, why they make all stock nozzles from brass? even in reviews people say that quality of prints is much better with those steel nozzles. what`s the point to use brass at all?

Brass is a better conductor of heat, so the temperature inside the nozzle is going to be about the same as the temperature measured by the thermocouple. It is also easier to machine for a smooth and consistent inside dimension, which means brass often gives better print quality than a cheap steel nozzle.

i am not doing anything just now. i still print that sample pla material, and somehow i got it work very well with a 215 deg nozzle and 65 deg board.
sticks well this way - and i print an another dillon part.

a bit odd as the 'ideal' pla is supposed to be at 200/50 temp, but it did not work for me with those tests i did this evening.
...
i have it with the steel nozzle - may be that is the factor too, for liking higher temp, dunno.

With a steel nozzle you need a higher temperature, but I've found that even with the stock nozzle 200C is a bit low for most PLAs.

Once you find a good supplier of filament you like and have a few kilos to work with, print a temperature tower to determine what temperature gives the best results for that one filament on your particular printer/nozzle combo.

the steel nozzles i got - looked at reviews, a lot of people complaint about them to be too narrow - but i checked them, and all were fine. are they ok for carbon filament?

Hardened steel is preferred for the filled filaments like CF, it'll eat softer metal away. Same problem happens with the extruder gear.

Move to a bigger nozzle, at least a 0.6 if you want to print with CF or GF and finish a print without clogging first.

 

[paul73]

I use 215 nozzle and 65 bed for PLA

cool how i reinvent the wheel all by myself!

 

[paul73]

With a steel nozzle you need a higher temperature, but I've found that even with the stock nozzle 200C is a bit low for most PLAs.



Steel is preferred for the filled filaments like CF, it'll eat softer metal away.

Move to a bigger nozzle, at least a 0.6 if you want to print with CF or GF and finish a print without clogging first.

if i set it on bigger nozzle - i have to update that setting in slicer software as well, right?

it took quite a while to make it print well as is now, so, i will see how it will go before swapping out anything else.

 

[Kevin_NH]

Steel is preferred for the filled filaments like CF, it'll eat softer metal away. Same problem happens with the extruder gear.
Move to a bigger nozzle, at least a 0.6 if you want to print with CF or GF and finish a print without clogging first

if i set it on bigger nozzle - i have to update that setting in slicer software as well, right? it took quite a while to make it print well as is now, so, i will see how it will go before swapping out anything else.

Yes.
The larger orifice means you can't print quite as fine details, but layer height can be taller == shorter print time

 

[NH Phantom]

LOL you need to stop over think this and go by the basics. To start anyway. i use brass nozzles

 

[pastera]

ok, so i have a stupid question then - if steel is all around better, why they make all stock nozzles from brass? even in reviews people say that quality of prints is much better with those steel nozzles. what`s the point to use brass at all?

Machinability - brass is the standard everything else is measured by.
Drilling small accurate holes is hard enough so using brass makes it cheap to produce nozzles even though brass isuch more expensive than steel

 

[pastera]

if i set it on bigger nozzle - i have to update that setting in slicer software as well, right?

it took quite a while to make it print well as is now, so, i will see how it will go before swapping out anything else.

3d printing is slow - nature of the beast.
Once you get your process worked out then you just let the parts run overnight.
Bigger nozzles start running into melt speed issues where the hot end can't melt filament fast enough.
Print speeds end up limited so accept it and focus on good quality prints that succeed on the first print.

 

[paul73]

Machinability - brass is the standard everything else is measured by.
Drilling small accurate holes is hard enough so using brass makes it cheap to produce nozzles even though brass isuch more expensive than steel

hmm.
steel nozzles i got were not that expensive, and seem to print quite well. ok, so far i am all set, it seems. will see how this last part will come out - so far layers seem to look very good.

 

[paul73]

So, I started reading about it - as I left it running overnight ( it still runs) and it runs in a reloading room with quite an amount of powder on a wooden bench. Reading about those ender 3 units catching fire.

If anyone researched that - I just started looking at forums and Reddit- how paranoid should I be about it?

And if it burns - how much actual fire will it be there, it does not look like a lot to catch fire in it except of that filament, that is of course quite flammable.

Just do not want to blow up the house, you know.