Apex hard sear only report

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I know their are threads on the whole kit, but I thought I would report on installing the hard sear only. I searched trying to get an idea of what the MA gun pull would be and could never find this answer; I would just get it feels lighter without an actual measurement. So now I can report what this is for anyone else wondering .

I just finished changing to the hard sear only this morning. My trigger pull is now 7 1/4lbs. This feels great compared to the MA 10lbs pull. It's a nice pull for a carry gun, not to light but it should be nicer at the range. I think for those who may want to save a little money ($40) and may not be up to the challenge of the whole kit, the hard sear is well worth it.

Very simple with a little patients . The hardest part is getting the sear pin lined up.

I should add I tested the pull over 10 times and consistently got the 7 1/4lbs reading
 
The best bang for your buck is to replace the MA trigger return spring with a Free State unit for $2.75. This will reduce the 10lb pull to about 6lbs, more with the Apex sear installed.
 
Thanks, I just ordered the spring. For some reason I thought the free state spring would not work.

Where do you order it from?... I wrote a big ole response last nite to your post on another board..., got side tracked while writing looking for a diagram online to quote the proper part names, ended up spending about 3 hours downloading and printing the Armorers manual.. then forgot to finish my response... computer locked up... shut it down and went to bed about 1am... :) Now I could write it all over again... but it doesn't seem so important.. I was going to share my experience with 4 M&P's and different degrees of Apex kit installation..... your results are the same as mine have been. Although my last M&P40c I found the trigger to be really gritty on take up.. determined it was the contact between the trigger bar and the striker block, so I replaced the striker block with the Apex one... gritty feel and sound is gone, I like it even more.. :)
 
Here you go. Schematic with parts to order.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=859/schematicsdetail/M_P__Semi_Auto_

After the trigger change I'll probably get the apex usb. I'm worried changing to this trigger spring will make the trigger mushy. Right now it has a nice reset with the MA spring and apex sear. I may order the apex spring also. I think it's between the MA spring and Free state spring; making the trigger lighter but still a nice reset feel.

I should also ad that other web searches show just changing the trigger spring only brought the trigger to 9bs, unlike Gammons results. When I get the spring and install it I will let you all know the result of the free state spring with the hard sear. If it brings it lower than 5lbs I may try the apex spring.
 
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I know their are threads on the whole kit, but I thought I would report on installing the hard sear only. I searched trying to get an idea of what the MA gun pull would be and could never find this answer; I would just get it feels lighter without an actual measurement. So now I can report what this is for anyone else wondering .

I just finished changing to the hard sear only this morning. My trigger pull is now 7 1/4lbs. This feels great compared to the MA 10lbs pull. It's a nice pull for a carry gun, not to light but it should be nicer at the range. I think for those who may want to save a little money ($40) and may not be up to the challenge of the whole kit, the hard sear is well worth it.

Very simple with a little patients . The hardest part is getting the sear pin lined up.

I should add I tested the pull over 10 times and consistently got the 7 1/4lbs reading

Update: As posted above the hard sear only brought my trigger pull down to 7 1/4lbs. I just installed the free state trigger return spring ( thanks Gammon) and I'm happy to report my trigger pull is 5 1/16lbs. It's very sweet. It was a pain in the ****** though to install.
 
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Just received my trigger return spring.
My install sequence was to field strip, push out Trigger headed pin just enough so spring loop comes free, then unhook trigger return spring from trigger bar assembly. Installation was easier by doing the headed pin loop first. Pushing the headed pin just far enough so that the end is halfway through the "slot" so the trigger return spring loop can be hooked over it. Pushing the headed pin back in, and then attaching the trigger bar loop. I was lucky and had some bent nose tweezers handy.

Dry firing showed much less pull required, but the break is still not so nice. I am hoping that will become better with more rounds through it.
 
When you install the trigger return spring, it's best to have a slave pin like the one we include with our trigger return springs. Also, if you remove the Sear Housing Block prior to installing the trigger, you'll have a much easier time installing the Trigger Pivot Pin.

Scott
 
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