This link may help a lot of people decide on what to use on their firearms and for what reason. http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
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MILITEC-1 is the ONLY synthetic oil I run through all of my guns, including my AR's.
Read up on the stuff. It penetrates the molecules of the steel, and was developed for car engines. A LOT of the guys in the desert (Iraq and Afghanistan) are using it..........
So why not just use motor oil?
It penetrates the molecules of the steel
I've heard this a lot, but I'm under the impression that, if true, this would be devastating to the makeup of the steel.
Any chemistry majors want to chime in?
I've heard this a lot, but I'm under the impression that, if true, this would be devastating to the makeup of the steel.
Any chemistry majors want to chime in?
Oil is supposed to fill the little canyons in the surface of the steel and aid the two surfaces sliding past each other.
I've used Mobil 1 , Breakfree, and Mpro7.
Top 2 are the Mobil 1 nad the Breakfree CLP. Mobil 1 just sticks on the guns and doesn't run, out performs most other lubricants out there. Internals get the Mobil1, but externals still get the Breakfree + a dash of Hoppes for cologn before it comes out at night.
I'm not a chemistry major. However, I believe that case hardening of steel can be accomplished by quenching red hot steel in a vat of oil (plus there's more to the process).
Just hose the F-ing BCG down with whatever you have handy. Done.
I use a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and synthetic motor oil on all my guns.
What is the purpose of the ATF? I add a little superfine molybdenum disulfide to the synthetic motor oil for enhanced lubrication.
That's not how you case harden.
If you just mean 'hardening', then you might be right depending on the composition of the steel. Carbon steels are hardened by heating to the critical temperature (right around the temperature where a magnet no longer sticks to it) and rapidly quenching in water, oil, salt, or cold air. What you quench it in depends on the type of steel. Further heat treating (tempering or even cryogenic treatment) may be necessary depending on the application for the part.
Case hardening was/is a way of hardening the surface of low carbon steels. The steel is packed in an airtight container along with a carbon source like charcoal or bone meal and heated. Carbon diffuses into the steel, which allows it to be hardened. Time and temperature determine how hard the part gets, and how deeply it will be hardened.
Depends on how you are shooting. Some oil might work if you shoot 60 rounds in 4hr, but they will burn off if you shoot 60 rounds in 30 seconds.
I thought we were talking about rifles without the selector switch. I'll leave full-auto rifle maintenance to the military.Depends on how you are shooting. Some oil might work if you shoot 60 rounds in 4hr, but they will burn off if you shoot 60 rounds in 30 seconds.
Breakfree + a dash of Hoppes for cologn before it comes out at night.
I thought we were talking about rifles without the selector switch. I'll leave full-auto rifle maintenance to the military.
I thought we were talking about rifles without the selector switch. I'll leave full-auto rifle maintenance to the military.
Please don't make this turn into another "Out yourself" thread.
60rds in 30 seconds? I guess you guys pull a trigger faster than I do.He's not talking about full auto.
I thought we were talking about rifles without the selector switch. I'll leave full-auto rifle maintenance to the military.
Can i get a clarification on that?