Assorted Glock Issues

GeorgeMason

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So, over the last few weeks I've had some issues with a couple of my Glock pistols. I have a Gen 3 G19 with a LoneWolf slide, barrel and guide rod/spring. Other than the initial break in period, the pistol has been extremely reliable (750+ rounds). Today at the range I brought a box of Federal aluminum cased cheap 9mm from Walmart. I got a giant pile of FTE using that (at least two per mag for 50 rounds). Went back and bought a 50 box of Blazer Brass (my usual range ammo). Seemed smooth, but I had one FTE and one FTfeed.
Secondly, I have a Gen 3 G26 with LoneWolf Slide, AlphaWolf Barrel and Glock OEM Guide rod/spring. First range trip was great, used the higher grain ammo to break everything in, had a few FTfeed, but sorted itself out quickly (within 30 rounds) and ran reliably for the next 200/250. Second range trip was a different story, consistent FTfeed, with the round nose diving into the ramp. Tried the usual 115 blazer brass and both 124 Remington and 147 Remington, and had the issues with all of them.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
szaino;[URL="tel:5272426" said:
5272426[/URL]]Where the Lone Wolf mods, something recent?

Based upon what you say, it appears the failures started right from the start of these mods.
The G19 has had those LW Parts for quite some time, first isssue was today with that Federal Aluminum. The G26 was a new build with the LW parts, but certainly functioned much better on the first trip.
 
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Rotaryrocket;[URL="tel:5272446" said:
5272446[/URL]]Magazine?


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The G19 issue today was with my newish OEM 10 Rounder that I usually carry.
The G26 issue was with three separate Brand new to very new OEM 10 rounders.
 
This is really a thread about the reliability of lone wolf slides and barrels.

I use an alpha wolf barrel in .40sw and 9mm conversion for a glock 22, in a real glock slide and they both work fine.

If the slides are heavier than glock OEM, the action will cycle slower and maybe not get enough speed on the forward stroke, causing the failure to feeds.
 
i use a lone wolf .357 sig barrel in a glock 22 gen2 slide sitting atop a timberwolf frame. what can i say...flawless.
 
i am no expert (so of course i am offering advice) but i would suggest you put the OEM slide and barrel back on and see how it goes. i have thousands of rounds down the pipe on my g26 all OEM without a failure and i have used every crappy ammo known to man but reloads. good luck!
 
yogi;[URL="tel:5272475" said:
5272475[/URL]]i am no expert (so of course i am offering advice) but i would suggest you put the OEM slide and barrel back on and see how it goes. i have thousands of rounds down the pipe on my g26 all OEM without a failure and i have used every crappy ammo known to man but reloads. good luck!
Unfortunately I don't have the OEM slide.

- - - Updated - - -

mkflyer;[URL="tel:5272462" said:
5272462[/URL]]This is really a thread about the reliability of lone wolf slides and barrels.

I use an alpha wolf barrel in .40sw and 9mm conversion for a glock 22, in a real glock slide and they both work fine.

If the slides are heavier than glock OEM, the action will cycle slower and maybe not get enough speed on the forward stroke, causing the failure to feeds.
Thats certainly what it seems like is happening on the G26.
 
what do you mean by FTE. ejection or extraction?

what kit did you use to build the slide? LWD kit or OEM parts?

get rid of the LWD guide rod. use OEM gen 3. it works great for 9mm.

are you using 10 rd mags? if so those are garbage for 9mm. the followers need to be replaced with standard followers otherwise nosediving is constant problem. this is well known by glock and others. see glocktalk this has been discussed at length.

i have actually had better results with ETS 10 rd mags over the glock OEM 10 rd mags. others have noted the same.

---

what mags are you using in the G26?
 
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Simple things to do are,
- clean the extractor, make sure no build up under the lip. do a visual check to make sure it isn't cracked or broken.
- check recoil spring make sure it isn't broken
- if you recently took it apart, take it apart and reassemble again. Kinda like shutting off your computer and turning it back on again. somehow problems get fixed by this

You need to try different recoil springs. If the spring is too stiff for the weight of the slide slide, it won't have enough force to travel all the way back and then forward with enough force to cycle gun properly. This can create both FTE's and and FTF's.

The power of the ammo can cause similar problems as above. Ammo with a low power factor will cause the gun not to cycle, all other things being equal.

Once you start replacing stock parts such as slides, barrels, recoil spring assemblies etc, you may need to retune the recoil spring and ammo so that it will cycle properly.


Glock has already done this with their stock gun and it is one of the best in the world. The most I would ever do with a Glock is very minor tuning of some of the trigger components. Maybe if you are building a competition gun and have the $, time, and patience it would be ok.

For a carry gun, you do not want to be playing around with after market parts. Stick with the most reliable setup which is OEM.
 
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szaino;[URL="tel:5272677" said:
5272677[/URL]]Simple things to do are,
- clean the extractor, make sure no build up under the lip. do a visual check to make sure it isn't cracked or broken.
- check recoil spring make sure it isn't broken
- if you recently took it apart, take it apart and reassemble again. Kinda like shutting off your computer and turning it back on again. somehow problems get fixed by this

You need to try different recoil springs. If the spring is too stiff for the weight of the slide slide, it won't have enough force to travel all the way back and then forward with enough force to cycle gun properly. This can create both FTE's and and FTF's.

The power of the ammo can cause similar problems as above. Ammo with a low power factor will cause the gun not to cycle, all other things being equal.

Once you start replacing stock parts such as slides, barrels, recoil spring assemblies etc, you may need to retune the recoil spring and ammo so that it will cycle properly.


Glock has already done this with their stock gun and it is one of the best in the world. The most I would ever do with a Glock is very minor tuning of some of the trigger components. Maybe if you are building a competition gun and have the $, time, and patience it would be ok.

For a carry gun, you do not want to be playing around with after market parts. Stick with the most reliable setup which is OEM.

It sounds like I have two very expensive paperweights.
 
what do you mean by FTE. ejection or extraction?

what kit did you use to build the slide? LWD kit or OEM parts?

get rid of the LWD guide rod. use OEM gen 3. it works great for 9mm.

are you using 10 rd mags? if so those are garbage for 9mm. the followers need to be replaced with standard followers otherwise nosediving is constant problem. this is well known by glock and others. see glocktalk this has been discussed at length.

i have actually had better results with ETS 10 rd mags over the glock OEM 10 rd mags. others have noted the same.

---

what mags are you using in the G26?

In the g26 I'm using the Glock oem guide rod and three separate Glock oem 10 round mags. All very new. The G19 and G26 slides are both built with lone wolf parts.
 
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I am aware of issues with blazer aluminum in 40 causing issue with reliable glocks especially if not perfectly lubricated and spotlessly clean. The aluminum stuff seems underpowered and causes the issues you describe.

Clean the heck out of it and retry brass ammo, see what happens. I also am not a fan of the lone wolf gear after what I have seen Minutman go through.
 
You have a Glock larded up with aftermarket stuff and it doesn't work right?

57823592.jpg
 
I would agree, but with 3 oem Glock mags ( even if new), you wouldn't expect to see this type of problem. Glock is plug and play.

OP should contact Lone Wolf for advice. Or better yet go to Glocktalk forum. there are answers to everything up there.
I have some ten round ets mags I'm going to try out today. Glocktalk had others with this issue and they solved it with magazines. I took them down, cleaned and oiled. Bought a couple boxes of 124 grain and 147 to try out as well.

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That's really helpful, thanks.

Let's just put it this way like 6 out of 10 screwed up glocks I've seen usually are larded up with that kind of stuff. I'm usually not a fan of "correlation = causation" but to say that it's usually at least a "suspicious coincidence" would be an understatement.

If you're that heavily invested in LWD stuff I would be talking to them (or perhaps a gunsmith that uses a lot of their crap) about your broken guns, because with that level of mods they're not really Glocks anymore. It's a glock patterned mixmaster thing riding on a Glock frame.

-Mike
 
I have some ten round ets mags I'm going to try out today. Glocktalk had others with this issue and they solved it with magazines. I took them down, cleaned and oiled.

I hope you mean that you cleaned and oiled your guns, not that you cleaned and oiled your magazines. Cleaning mags is OK; oiling them is not.
 
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Range Update:

Brought both to the range after cleaning them up and oiling them (the 26 was pretty much spotless already). Started with CCI Blazer Brass as my spare mags were already loaded with that. All went through with no issues. Followed this up with some Remington 147 grain brass. Put 150 rounds out between the two (I'd say 100 through the 26 and 50 through the 19) all without issue. Finished up with another 50 rounds each of Herters 115 grain all brass. You guessed it, no isssues. I tried all possible mag combinations as well. Going to head back to the range in a couple days and do it all over again. Needless to say I was much happier with these results. Thanks to everyone who offered help. I'll update again after my next trip.
 
The G19 has had those LW Parts for quite some time, first isssue was today with that Federal Aluminum. The G26 was a new build with the LW parts, but certainly functioned much better on the first trip.

Much better or no issues?
I think it's kinda sad a pistol designed to be a "service" arm needs such delicate handling.

My great uncle said he loved the 1911 he carried in WWII because it ran lubed with blood and sand.

I ran into issues with aluminum cases with my 4013 the cases where just a tad longer than any of my brass fodder.
 
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You have a Glock larded up with aftermarket stuff and it doesn't work right?

57823592.jpg

Yeah, I thought the beauty of Glocks was that they are good-to-go straight from the box? Why is everyone changing out all the shit that works?



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Yeah, I thought the beauty of Glocks was that they are good-to-go straight from the box? Why is everyone changing out all the shit that works?



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I briefly considered a barrel swap in my Gen 4 G19, but opted not to. It's dead stock and I haven't had a single issue with it after several hundred rounds. I even use a 33rd Glock stick mag in it at the range. Flawless.


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Yeah, I thought the beauty of Glocks was that they are good-to-go straight from the box? Why is everyone changing out all the shit that works?



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Speaking for myself only, I've got four Glocks that I use as carry guns, (2) sets each in CT and GA. A pair of G43's and a pair of G17's. On all of them I replaced the sights, putting on tubes that are bright in the day and glow at night. I replaced the slide release lever, mag release lever and takedown levers with extended versions. I extended the G43's magazine's with plus-1 plates, (I mean really - SIX rounds???).

That's basically it for three of them.

The fourth one is a bit different, one of the G17's is a LoneWolf lower with a G17 upper, and the trigger was not 100% reliable when I purchased it; so I replaced it. Sort of out of the parameters of your original question because it's not a stock Glock.
 
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