Brake cleaner, DIY "Bore Scrubber", Synthetic Motor oil??

[MoAmmoPlease]

I have adopted "Mobil One " as my lube tool and have heard from a few sources that "Brake Cleaner" is a good all around scrubber/bore cleaner but am concerned about it damaging synthetic materials after using "Redhead" from Walmarts that turned a black stock white. I am also trying to come up with an aerosol gun scrubber and just curious if anyone has a good idea. I know some of you use an air compressor but I wanted to add a solvent of some sort AND not buy a compressor.(I can get a box of 9mm for that expense)
It wouldn't be so bad but I fly thru the "Gun Scrubber" at $10.00 an 10 OZ can and use more Hoppes than needed. If yous guys have any home brewed gun cleaning recipes I would be grateful.
I'm still cleaning barrels in scalding hot soapy water with great results. If the water is hot the water evaporates away VERY quickly. Used it as the manufacturer recommended for years on the ML's.

Face it... If you buy all the cleaning doo dads on the shelf not to mention "Splatter" targets your spending good money, money that could buy a couple of rounds of 22LR.
Thanks.... Off to the range to burn of some steam and ammo!

 

[Gammon]

I have also adopted synthtic motor oil and brake cleaner as cost saving measures. I have yet to find a substitute for bore cleaners like Hoppe's and M Pro 7 so that is where my money goes. Not too bad as quality bore cleaners go a long way. I would stay away from the aerosols as they tend to cost more.

Most of my practice is with IDPA or USPSA targets available after the local matches, free. I also have a steel plate set up that I use frequently. I paid about $100 for them 30 years ago and they are still going strong. I also paint bullseyes on cardboard sheets using spray paint and home made stencils. Just as good as store bought, easier to set up, and more durable.

 

[Chet0729]

Be aware that all brake clean is not created equal. There are a ton of different types. Some are chlorinated, some are flammable, almost all will damage most plastics. I have used Kroil to clean bores and it dissolves almost all deposits.

 

[01SVTvert]

At the very minimum get a non-chlorinated brake cleaner and use it in a WELL ventilated place. Check it on plastics first before spraying it everywhere. Only time I have used it is on all metal components as it will usually damage shellac and other wood finishes and some plastics.

 

[usp45ct]

Or buy metal guns

 

[ThePreBanMan]

Use chlorine free brake cleaner. Is not harmful to the finishes of the metal or polymer.

 

[ntomsw]

Use Hoppe's.

 

[Woodstock]

What is this "cleaning" of which you speak?

 

[mac1911]

I once had a gun Smith tell me he has repaired more guns from over cleaning than from over shooting.
That said I have found gunk brand non clorinated break cleaner do work well. Although it will dam near gag you if not used out doors.
As for home brew that works. Check. This link Homemade Firearm Related Products
I don't clean the day lights out of my guns. A bore snake and oil patch after range trip and a few dry patches when it is time to shoot again. Most of my rifles I shoot jacketed ammo out of I will shoot until accuracy starts to go.
For lead cast bullets I clean when leading is obvious.
From the days of old my dad used mercury to remove lead from barrels. Store bought ammonia with trans fluid for copper.
I have mixed up eds red and it does well...it just stinks a bit. I like breakfree clp for general cleaning and simple green warmed up cleans well also...just be warned on aluminun with simple green.

 

[newenglandjeff]

I use unscented baby wipes as bore patches, before a final lube pass with a cotton patch.

 

[P-14]

Skip the cleaner. Use a bore snake. Problem solved. (YMMV)