Caching

Twigg

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Every so often we talk about bugging out if SHTF. Sometimes folks like to talk about burying a gun or two “Just in case”, no argument from me about this being a good idea but if you can’t get to it then you’ve got other issues. I’ve always had a place to go even if it was just a campsite out in a remote location.

Well let’s say it just the SHTF. Doesn’t matter what’s happened, you’re buggin’ out, but just to complicate things a bit let’s say the power’s out. Now the issue is how do you get out ? Ideally you’d drive, and keep to secondary streets to avoid traffic and possible roadblocks / checkpoints if the .guv decides they don’t want you leaving the area. You’ll need to refuel at least once before you get to your bug-out location.

How do you re-fuel en-route if nobody’s got electricity ? Yeah some gas stations might have a generator but maybe they won’t. Murphy will prevail unless you prepare. So whaddya do ?

You have a cache.

Weeks or months ago you as you drove your bug-out route you were scouting locations where you could cache supplies along the way. A cache could be as simple or as elaborate as you need. You can place your cache in plain sight like in a U-Store U-Lock place or you can have a covert cache buried someplace.

Let’s save the discussion on where to place your covert cache for later.

Let’s talk about how to stash away some traveling supplies, and what to put inside.

I’d suggest making two sizes of boxes for your cache, what I call the fifty mile and hundred mile boxes. (Based on a generic worst case 10 MPG scenario.) Basically the 50 mile box will hold one gas can as well as enough food for one day per person and the 100 mile box will hold two five gallon gas cans as well as additional food, first aid supplies or firearms. Make the box at least twice as wide as the gas can for your additional supplies. Keep in mind the thought of using multiple boxes in one hide. Makes placement and access easier.

First you’ll need fuel so we’ll start with a five gallon can of gas. Be sure to add some fuel stabilizer before sealing the can. I recommend placing the gas can inside a plywood box. Now, I know a plywood box isn’t going to be waterproof and it doesn’t have to be. You can caulk the seams and paint it inside and out with a waterproof coating if you want. The gas can will be fine. You can wrap it up inside a garbage bag or two if you feel the need.

Now place other watertight containers into the cache box. Some ideas for other items might be a couple of bottles of water and a few MRE’s, a 5X7 tarp and some dry clothes and in this neck o’the woods I’d add some warm clothing or wool blankets as well. Seal all of these items in plastic bags using one of those seal-a-meal devices. Nail the lid on, using caulk (Not Glue !), don’t use screws and don’t use hinges or locks as you want to be able to dig this up and open it with the tools you’re likely to have when buggin’ out.

A firearm & ammo is a good addition to the 100 mile cache and here is where C&R firearms shine. Why ? With no serial number, it would be difficult to trace back to you if it’s accidently discovered. For the same reason don’t put anything in a cache which could be traced either.

What are your thoughts on caching ? Anybody here have any suggestions on what to use for a box, or what to put inside ?
 
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I think when TSHTF you'd come out to find your box empty.

Animals will find ANY food related items in a heartbeat and dig it up. After it's dug up, the locals will find the rest. A better idea is to go in with a bunch of friends and buy a small chunk of land somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Build a secure structure on site thats only purpose is to store things and keep critters (or people) out.
 
...Animals will find ANY food related items in a heartbeat and dig it up. <snip>...A better idea is to go in with a bunch of friends and buy a small chunk of land somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Build a secure structure on site thats only purpose is to store things and keep critters (or people) out.

I've been doing this for awhile, I started back in the early 80's after I got out of the service. Had a bunch of drops up in the Catskills. Mostly the same technique, stuff in a plywood box, gas, clothes, & shotgun shells, food was canned goods or C-rats. Had some buried two to three years undisturbed.

It can be done. [smile]

The latter idea is the better one but you still have to get there.

The key to a covert cache is location.
 
I've read that sealed PVC tubing is good for caching some types of material. Depending upon how big it is it can be buried with a post-hole digger.
 
You can buy a new five gallon paint bucket at Home Depot with a gasketed lid that seals tightly. You need a screwdriver to pry off the cover once secured.
 
For the sake of discussion, let's just suppose that there are .50 Cal ammo cans placed within several yards to several miles from my home. All of them have food items, ammo, survival and first aid supplies in them. If I were to do this, I'd have them marked on my GPS and map. I's have them sealed well, placed well and repainted before I buried them. I'd add a dessicant bag to each and place them in areas where high levels of ground water and frost would not be much of a concern - say in or near a fallen dead, decaying hollow tree or near evergreen. I've heard of folks burying things in .50cal cans for years and digging them up to find everything nice and fresh...One guy I know buried an ammo can with Cliff Bars, MRE first aid, survival gear, 2 mags of .45ACP and 4 stripper clips of 8mm...He dug it up after 5-years, snacked on the Cliff Bars, had an MRE for lunch and did some plinking with the .45ACP and 8mm - all of which were as fresh as when he buried it in 1999.....I think if things are prepared properly, there's an almost limitless time span they can be useful....
 
The key to a covert cache is location.

+1, MrTwigg.

I think that's the biggest problem; one has to be able to
bury it someplace without someone else seeing you do it; and
then it should be in a place not likely to get stumbled upon
by accident. (eg, if you put a cache too close to a road, what
happens if someone decides to widen the road and your cache
gets excavated or paved over, etc. ) Unuseable land (like
maybe the side of a steep hill) might be optimal.

Having a method to figure out the location by dead reckoning
might also be useful; eg, reference points so you can easily find
your way back to the cache.

-Mike
 
Having a method to figure out the location by dead reckoning
might also be useful; eg, reference points so you can easily find
your way back to the cache.

-Mike

Yeah. I would plot it on a GPS but I would not rely on have that GPS at the time when I needed it most. Murphy's law can be very unforgiving.
 
I think when TSHTF you'd come out to find your box empty.

Animals will find ANY food related items in a heartbeat and dig it up. After it's dug up, the locals will find the rest. A better idea is to go in with a bunch of friends and buy a small chunk of land somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Build a secure structure on site thats only purpose is to store things and keep critters (or people) out.

BS. I have caches all over the AT and I never had one destroyed by critters. I don't even bother to use ammo cans anymore. I use rubbermaid contains and make sure that I don't put anything too smelly in them. They are stocked with canned food, MRE's and even well sealed candy. I don't even bother to burry them anymore. Critters will only bother something that smells like food.
 
BS. I have caches all over the AT and I never had one destroyed by critters. I don't even bother to use ammo cans anymore. I use rubbermaid contains and make sure that I don't put anything too smelly in them. They are stocked with canned food, MRE's and even well sealed candy. I don't even bother to burry them anymore. Critters will only bother something that smells like food.

Though I have not ventured into Rubbermaid land, I have done a few in food-grade buckets, painted OD/Brown and put into a hollow tree. I've buried PVC as well - even leaving one cache generally exposed and just covered with some brush - mere feet from the AT and it remaind undisturbed for a couple of years. You're absolutely right - animals won't eat what they can't smell....

Also, if one is familiar enough with the woods you're in, being anal-retentive about plotting cache sites is in my view a waste of time. Much like you know how to get from your buddies house to the local package store, adjusting your sense of memory and direction is much the same way. In Africa, I navigated extreme distances through very confusing tracks by simply "pretending" if you will, I was navigating a city. For example, the camp was a left on the 4th track past the baobab with the broken limb and the ironwood which arched over a termite mound....Though I initially use maps, a compass and gps to plot my course, eventually I can remember locations - simply in the same way I remember how to get to Pittsfield....
 
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