corrosive ammo

A bottle of water is all you need after shooting corrosive, toss it down the pipe before you leave the range and it will help more than you know.
I only shoot Golden Tiger with my 7.62's and all is good with the stuff
 
A bottle of water is all you need after shooting corrosive, toss it down the pipe before you leave the range and it will help more than you know.
I only shoot Golden Tiger with my 7.62's and all is good with the stuff

While I do put some down the bore, I focus on the chamber and action area since it's the primer that is the main issue and I assume the majority of the deposits are left in that area.
 
My son took my Yugo SKS to the range and didn't clean it afterwards. I don't know what specific ammo he was using, but I only buy new commercial x39 that is supposed to be non-corrosive. That's a lie. He's been working on the rust off and on for 2 weeks.
 
that stuff on the battery is corrosion from leaking acid/fumes which probably happen during the electrolytic process of charging the battery from the alternator. Its not a neutralized salt.There's acid and lead oxide and god knows what else in that muck. The baking soda solution your supposed to use to clean that off neutralizes the acid that has collected on top of the battery (and create a salt in the process)

I think black powder residue may get acidic with moisture because of the sulfur component in it, but I'd have to look into it further. Its a totally different animal than the primer residue.

Ok so what makes the salt acid? It needs moister/water correct? So ammonia from Windex may neutralize any acid but the salts still need to be washed away correct. Would a alkaline based cleaner do well vs water? Like the WWII era type cleaners.

As for corrosive non corrosive x39 I bought a shit ton of some Russian x 39 back in the 90s was labeled as a "hunting load non corrosive" not so much. My sks and x39 bolt action would disagree.
 
Last edited:
no no no! There's no way to make salt an acid. Salt is the byproduct of a neutralized acid, the reaction does not go the other way. And ammonia does NOT neutralize acid either. In many cases it doesn't do anything but mix with acid and make a stinky acid. (You don't want it near bleach either or you'll get a poisonous gas)

The fired black powder residue should be mostly carbon with some sulfur compounds in it. The sulfur compounds are what can become acidic when mixed with water. Its basically the same as acid rain. That was caused by coal burning power plants that let the sulfurous smoke go up into the atmosphere. It mixed with the rain clouds and became a weak form of sulfuric acid.

Now that's totally different than the salts released/deposited by corrosive primers and what's going on with the car battery. 3 different reactions/situations.
 
no no no! There's no way to make salt an acid. Salt is the byproduct of a neutralized acid, the reaction does not go the other way. And ammonia does NOT neutralize acid either. In many cases it doesn't do anything but mix with acid and make a stinky acid. (You don't want it near bleach either or you'll get a poisonous gas)

The fired black powder residue should be mostly carbon with some sulfur compounds in it. The sulfur compounds are what can become acidic when mixed with water. Its basically the same as acid rain. That was caused by coal burning power plants that let the sulfurous smoke go up into the atmosphere. It mixed with the rain clouds and became a weak form of sulfuric acid.

Now that's totally different than the salts released/deposited by corrosive primers and what's going on with the car battery. 3 different reactions/situations.

Ok makes sense.
I basically solved my problem by not shooting corrosive. I run cast loads for most of my milsurps I don't want to spend money on new ammo for.
 
Ok makes sense.
I basically solved my problem by not shooting corrosive. I run cast loads for most of my milsurps I don't want to spend money on new ammo for.

yeah that's the easiest way lol. I don't mind shooting corrosive in my bolt guns but the semis are such a PIA to completely clean afterwards that I don't like to do it.

I recently tried this ammo in my SVT40 and its amazing! No FTF/FTE with it through 80-100 rounds and VERY accurate. I was shocked at how good this stuff was.

https://www.classicfirearms.com/russian-steel-cased-laquer-coated-54r-fmj-ammo-148-grain

They don't deliver to MA so I'm not worried about putting the link here, but if you can get some shipped to a friend or relative in NH or some other friendly state, get some! 40 cents a round isn't all that much more than surplus as well but its better in so many ways. Can't wait to try some in my mosins.
 
You mention a guy sitting in a foxhole for weeks. If you are referring to WWII, they could use G.I. bore solvent which was formulated for use with corrosive ammo.
 
You mention a guy sitting in a foxhole for weeks. If you are referring to WWII, they could use G.I. bore solvent which was formulated for use with corrosive ammo.

I'm not use to sure the guys in the foxholes where all to worried about bore solvent.
 
I'm not use to sure the guys in the foxholes where all to worried about bore solvent.

I'm sure they were. They'd make sure they had functional weapons as best they could. Lot of downtime in foxholes.

Relating this issue to WWII, though, is not even the biggest point. Remember that dudes lived underground in WWI using corrosive ammo, in generally worse weather and with generally poorer supplies. They somehow made their guns work, too.
 
Back
Top Bottom