Czech Silvertip VS Bulgarian Light Ball

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

Shopping & since I never shot 7.62x54r before, I need some advice as to what to use in my Finn M39.

I am looking at 2 deals.. one for Czech silvertip & another for bulgarian light ball.

Also see they have bulgarian heavy ball as well as some 7.62x54RH Hungarian.


From what I've read, I'm guessing the best bet is czech but want to see what the experienced folks suggest.

 

[vellnueve]

The silvertip Czech is probably the best all around ammo for Mosins. I like it because it is noncorrosive unlike many of the other surplus stocks around.

 

[WVBob]

I like the Czech in my 7.62x54 (have 4). Stay away from the Greek ammo, it's not sized right and will not chamber all the time. Winchester has some nice ammo.

 

[SKS Ray]

Czech is corrosive. The powder might no be but the primers definitely are. Thats usually labeled mildly corrosive and to me thats like saying mildly pregnant.
I find the Czech good for accuracy but also experience sticky bolt syndrome more with it than the Bulgarian.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

I'm not worried about corrosive all that much as I habitually clean & regularly perform preservation maintenance on all my guns.

I always clean after every shot, then when I'm done for days shooting I do a good cleaning of barrel. When I get home I do a takedown & give it a thorough cleaning then some fresh oil & case it back up.

I was wanting to buy a case, but maybe should buy a can of each type & experiment to see what I like.

Stuff seems to be going up in price too, so want to buy a case now while I can

 

[coastie]

If you are cleaning after each shot you are cleaning way too much. Most firearms are damaged by over cleaning and other maintenance. A good cleaning at the end of a shooting session is all that is needed for corrosive. Shoot and enjoy. Worry about the cleaning at the end of the day.

 

[AntiqueWeapons.org]

If you are cleaning after each shot you are cleaning way too much. Most firearms are damaged by over cleaning and other maintenance. A good cleaning at the end of a shooting session is all that is needed for corrosive. Shoot and enjoy. Worry about the cleaning at the end of the day.

I only use prelubed patches after each shot, not a thorough cleaning with brushes & all, just a quick wipe.

As far as over cleaning, never occured to me that this could be a bad thing. I thought I was preventing corrosion by making sure it's clean inside & out with fresh oil afterwards.

Then again, I was primarily shooting black powder & antique smokeless cartridges, & was only shooting about 5 or 6 times a year til recently. I just recently got into milsurps because budget don't allow me to add to my collection so much when buying antique flintlocks, percussion, etc.. Also, It's very rare to find these old guns in shooter grade, so decided to get into milsurps. I figure this way I'll have more items available within my budget & they're more convenient for shooting at range as well as hunting.

So, for last couple months I've been reading & learning about Milsurps to decide which area to get into collecting & I decided on Mausers & Mosins though I do want a few other types like a Schmidt-Rubin & Vetterli.

 

[Joe R.]

Nothing to add on to what Milsurps said above on the Czech silvertip. It is the best of the surplus out there and I'm always looking for more. The Bulgarian light ball is also good stuff and is available for a decent price. It's not quite as good as the silvertip but damn close. I've found a few rounds in the can to have some corrosion on them but still shoot. Some of the Hung. heavy/light ball is okay too. The last pack of Albanian I opened is not shooting as good as the first one did - too many gas blowbys that are starting to bother me.

You're cleaning too much for corrosive ammo. The damage will take a few days to get started to see brown in the barrel. Clean your rifle after you get home and it will be fine.

Joe R.

 

[vellnueve]

Are you sure the Czech silver tip is corrosive? I know some of the other Czech stuff is, but didn't think the silver tipped stuff was. The place I bought it from, which is a reputable and high volume source, says flatly that its non corrosive.

If so, I better get down to cleaning.

 

[SKS Ray]

Are you sure the Czech silver tip is corrosive? I know some of the other Czech stuff is, but didn't think the silver tipped stuff was. The place I bought it from, which is a reputable and high volume source, says flatly that its non corrosive.

If so, I better get down to cleaning.

Yep, corrosive primers. Even the PRVI Partizan 7.62x54 with a 1975 headstamp that I got off the NY dealers at the last show, who guaranteed me wasn't corrosive, has primers that are.
Rule of thumb is anything made before the mid 80s should be treated as corrosive.
Had a friend of mine order some Romanian 8mm Mauser ammo probably from the same source you mentioned that was advertised as non corrosive and sure enough a few weeks later, orange in the bore.

 

[Joe R.]

Yep, corrosive primers. Even the PRVI Partizan 7.62x54 with a 1975 headstamp that I got off the NY dealers at the last show, who guaranteed me wasn't corrosive, has primers that are.
Rule of thumb is anything made before the mid 80s should be treated as corrosive.
Had a friend of mine order some Romanian 8mm Mauser ammo probably from the same source you mentioned that was advertised as non corrosive and sure enough a few weeks later, orange in the bore.

Had to correct the NY bros. about that mess up. Made the mistake of "too many things to do " and found the Romanian was corrosive but not brutally corrosive. Still took me some time to get the brown out. Heed everyones advice on the milsurp ammo, especially from the Soviet block groups: IT IS CORROSIVE UNTILL PROVEN OTHERWISE!!!

Joe R.

 

[vellnueve]

OK, because I have avoided corrosive ammo like the plague, can someone give me some tips on what I should be aiming to clean after every trip to the range? Bore and chamber obviously, but should I do a detail strip and do everything? I don't want to overclean.

 

[SKS Ray]

Some guys strip the bolt and soak in cleaner but I just wipe the face down and after a few trips will take the firing pin out and check it. I haven't found any damage yet, but than again all my bolts have had Break Free sprayed inside and out and then dried with compressed air.

Heres all I do for corrosive ammo clean up: http://northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=6140

I haven't shot anything corrosive in my semi autos. I know some people say they were made for it but taking apart an SVT40 and cleaning the internals is a PITA, especially the gas tube.