Glock 19 Modification

I have absolutely no experience with these aftermarket extractors, because strangely in tens of thousands of rounds through Glocks of all kinds, I've never had this problem. (My Gen 3 G34 had over 30,000 rounds through it when I sold it)

Don
 
Huh?! First of all, the stock trigger weight is perfectly shootable. Second, WHY would you do a mod which could hurt your reliability. If you want an unreliable carry gun with a good trigger, go buy a short barreled 1911...
 
dcmdon said:
I saw Dave Sevigney clean house with a G17 he took out of the box for the first time 10 minutes before the match started.

Its the software not the hardware.

With that said, I've put a Genuine Glock 3.5/4.5 lb connector in all of my Glocks. That combined with a fluff and buff of the bearing surfaces lowers the ACTUAL trigger weight as measured by the middle of the bow to somewhere around 5.5 lbs. (If you don't have a trigger gauge, please don't comment here. You can't estimate trigger weights accurately)

It also smooths it out considerably. The resulting trigger is as good as you need for a defensive gun or for a practical shooting gun for that matter.

If you like to fiddle, and who doesn't, you can try replacing the stock 5.5 lb striker spring with something lighter (Toy or match guns only please).

I personally shoot a 4# striker spring in my IDPA gun. That combined with the fluff and buff and the (factory installed Gen4) 4.5 lb connector gives me a weight of about 3 - 3.5 # depending on how dirty it is. I only shoot this gun with my reloads made specifically for this gun. They use a soft Federal primer and go bang 100% of the time.

I tried a trigger spring designed to lighten trigger pull but didn't like it. The trigger didn't follow my finger out smoothly but kind of bumped along as I released the trigger. It was distracting when trying to shoot fast.

Re the safety plunger spring. I've tried everything from stock to a light weight one cut down by 1 coil. I can't feel the difference. So I leave the stock Glock plunger spring in place at all times. I do fluff and buff and cut a 45 deg angle on the plunger. Mainly because I feel better. I've never done A : B testing on a stock vs modified plunger.

In summary. All you need is a 3.5 lb connector. That gets you 90% of the way to a great glock trigger and is perfect for carry.

Fluff and buff and a lighter striker spring gets you as far as you need to go on a race gun.

Don
Glock Advanced Armorer
Click to expand...

Just a point of comparison. I was at Walls of Steel this weekend an got a chance to try a ZEV trigger. I know nothing about it other than that was what was in the gun.

The stock Glock trigger in my G34 with a fluff and buff and a 4# striker spring was superior in feel and weight to the ZEV that I tried. You really can get as good a trigger as anyone needs for about $5 if your gun comes with a stock 4.5# connector. (G34, G35, and G41) and about $20 if you need to replace the connector.

But again, the 4# spring is for toy guns only. The Zev equipped gun may have had a full weight (5.5#) spring for all I know. But either way, my gun, as it sat that day, had a superior to that other gun with a Zev trigger.

Don
 
dcmdon said:
Just a point of comparison. I was at Walls of Steel this weekend an got a chance to try a ZEV trigger. I know nothing about it other than that was what was in the gun.

The stock Glock trigger in my G34 with a fluff and buff and a 4# striker spring was superior in feel and weight to the ZEV that I tried. You really can get as good a trigger as anyone needs for about $5 if your gun comes with a stock 4.5# connector. (G34, G35, and G41) and about $20 if you need to replace the connector.

But again, the 4# spring is for toy guns only. The Zev equipped gun may have had a full weight (5.5#) spring for all I know. But either way, my gun, as it sat that day, had a superior to that other gun with a Zev trigger.

Don
Click to expand...

71bf4186f2fd86fe7990f814bb956dd6d77d68ee46e6de9d981f02268d87422f.jpg



I get what you are saying. People tend to buy the fancy expensive stuff because its supposed to be better than a do it yourself solution, although it may not actually be
 
The regular MIM Extractor from Shadow Systems did not fit but their Billet one did, still sends brass my way. Going with a stock Glock extractor next just to see if it helps. Also waiting on the findings from the one I sent back.

Update
Shadow systems sent me an email saying they're extractor was not in spec and will send me a new one next week
 
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IIRC there was a posting on GT or other glock forum showing slow motion of glock 19 BTF. the brass comes tumbling straight back and out of the ejection port. changing the extractor never made a difference for me. the only "fix" I found was to attach a streamlight TLR-1 (or other heavy flashlight). something about that weight on the frame changing the recoil impulse. i think it keeps the ejection port more level during rearward slide travel, thus forcing the brass to tumble out to the right.

ultimately I think the fix is in the ejector but glock won't admit it or redesign the 9mm ejector. my theory also makes sense because .40 and .45 glocks don't really have this problem. it's mostly a 9mm issue. the extractors are not caliber specific, whereas the ejectors are.

for those who think i'm nuts, try attaching a streamlight TLR-1 to your BTF glock and check it out. it will eject much better. ultimately i just abandoned the gen 4 9mm glocks and haven't looked back. the gen 3's have never given me the BTF issue although i've heard plenty of stories of gen 3's doing BTF as well.
 
Squib308 said:
IIRC there was a posting on GT or other glock forum showing slow motion of glock 19 BTF. the brass comes tumbling straight back and out of the ejection port. changing the extractor never made a difference for me. the only "fix" I found was to attach a streamlight TLR-1 (or other heavy flashlight). something about that weight on the frame changing the recoil impulse. i think it keeps the ejection port more level during rearward slide travel, thus forcing the brass to tumble out to the right.

ultimately I think the fix is in the ejector but glock won't admit it or redesign the 9mm ejector. my theory also makes sense because .40 and .45 glocks don't really have this problem. it's mostly a 9mm issue. the extractors are not caliber specific, whereas the ejectors are.

for those who think i'm nuts, try attaching a streamlight TLR-1 to your BTF glock and check it out. it will eject much better. ultimately i just abandoned the gen 4 9mm glocks and haven't looked back. the gen 3's have never given me the BTF issue although i've heard plenty of stories of gen 3's doing BTF as well.
Click to expand...

BTFs not confined to just 9mms, but G21 Gen4s were doing it for awhile, too. At one point I sent one of mine to Glock and they basically gave me an entirely new gun... I'm guessing the guy that worked on it got BTFed every time. It also didn't matter if you swapped the RSA either, I ran the gun with the lonewolf conversion to old school RSA thing, and it did the same damned thing. I think it has something to do with the ejector design and potentially extractor changes, or some damned thing like that. My G30 Gen4 is fine. My current G21SF is fine... assuming proper grip, the cases will basically go over my right arm- but if you limp wrist it at all, you'll probably get hit, lol. When I ran it in bowling pin shoots, I never got hit with brass, probably because I was focused and gripped the gun well. Also may have been
the handload I was running, which was basically a warm load of unique (230 gr plated over 6.3 grs of unique). Things like powder burn rates and the like can even influence this
behavior.

I have noticed on guns that are borderline, if you have proper grip and and aren't limp wristing it at all, it'll stop the BTFs, but it's also very ammo dependent, as well. In general weaker ammunition tends to seem to make BTFs happen more often. On a gun that is borderline shooting like blazer brass or perfecta crap, you can easily induce the problem with reckless abandon. I've noticed that Fed Champion/Bulk pack 9mm on a borderline gun tends to induce almost no BTFs, with WWB being a close second. Weak, 115gr brass cased ammo seems to be the worst. (Curiously enough, the AL and Steel cased stuff, I think the weight of the case changes the ejection dynamics of the gun. )

Also curiously enough one thing that made the problem less annoying was, that with any decent carry ammo, I never got a BTF. Not even off my original G17 Gen4 which was horrendous until I got it repaired. Strangely enough with that gun after it was repaired
it would not BTF AT ALL. And like a moron, I sold it. [laugh]

-Mike
 
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Squib308 said:
IIRC there was a posting on GT or other glock forum showing slow motion of glock 19 BTF. the brass comes tumbling straight back and out of the ejection port. changing the extractor never made a difference for me. the only "fix" I found was to attach a streamlight TLR-1 (or other heavy flashlight). something about that weight on the frame changing the recoil impulse. i think it keeps the ejection port more level during rearward slide travel, thus forcing the brass to tumble out to the right.

ultimately I think the fix is in the ejector but glock won't admit it or redesign the 9mm ejector. my theory also makes sense because .40 and .45 glocks don't really have this problem. it's mostly a 9mm issue. the extractors are not caliber specific, whereas the ejectors are.

for those who think i'm nuts, try attaching a streamlight TLR-1 to your BTF glock and check it out. it will eject much better. ultimately i just abandoned the gen 4 9mm glocks and haven't looked back. the gen 3's have never given me the BTF issue although i've heard plenty of stories of gen 3's doing BTF as well.
Click to expand...

I have also noticed with a TLR or surefire attached the brass does eject different. I've never had an issue on a Glock without a light but have noticed the difference with a light attached.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When I took the Glock Armorer's class a few years ago, I was surprised to see how many differences there are between the .40 and the 9mm.

Slide, magazine, recoil spring assembly and and barrel are to be expected. But I was surprised by extractor and ejector.

The bottom line is that a converted gun is fine as a toy. I have a Gen 4 G35 that has been used for its entire life with a 9mm KKM conversion barrel. It runs great.

But it still has an extractor and ejector that aren't really geometrically correct for 9mm.

Don
 

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