I HATE CASE TRIMMING!!

Yes, you have to trim .30 Carbine. I'm not sure how long a case has to be before the rifle won't function but if you want any kind of consistency, you trim.

Do you find that they stretch? I've reloaded 1000s - some about a dozen times - and I've never had one stretch on me. If the round headspaces on the case mouth and has no shoulder, how does it stretch?

Really? I thought the case length was important in the M1 carbine since it headspaces on the casemouth? The Hornady manual lists the max case length at 1.290" and I had some cases that were as long as 1.305" - not many though. Last weekend I measured ~200 cases and trimmed any that were 1.285" and over. Took awhile with my Lee cutter in my cordless drill lol. It would be nice if I didn't have to trim/debur/chamfer the cases.

Case length is important for any round that headspaces on the mouth, but if the round chambers and fires, then the case won't have to be trimmed before reloading unless it stretches.

Now, if you have cases that start off out of spec, or you want to trim for uniformity, that's one thing, but you no more have to trim .30 Carbine than you would have to trim .380 or .45 ACP.
 
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Do you find that they stretch? I've reloaded 1000s - some about a dozen times - and I've never had one stretch on me. If the round headspaces on the case mouth and has no shoulder, how does it stretch?



Case length is important for any round that headspaces on the mouth, but if the round chambers and fires, then the case won't have to be trimmed before reloading unless it stretches.

Now, if you have cases that start off out of spec, or you want to trim for uniformity, that's one thing, but you no more have to trim .30 Carbine than you would have to trim .380 or .45 ACP.

Gotcha. Good to know. Ya I figured I'd start out with all the cases being uniform. Well that will save me a bunch of time if I don't have to do any future trimming. Thanks.
 
I can't say for certainty that Carbine brass stretches. I can say for certainty that I check case length after sizing and trim. I always assumed they stretched due to the taper in the case. Maybe an active Carbine shooter/reloader could do a small study.
 
I have a WFT. I chuck it up in my 7 x 12 bench top lathe.
I have the inter-changable Pieces for the WFT2 that I will be
mounting in a Magnavon Microstop countersink tool with a rivet
shaver cutter. This will give me 0.001" accuracy or better. Also
the Body and Casing stay still with only the Cutter turning inside.

Malodave
 
What's the shaft diameter of the Tri-Way? I couldn't watch Pat's video with sound, so I apologize if he covered it. But it seems like it's as simple as a shaft coupler from the motor to the TriWay?

ETA, I went for one. 55$ for a motor from Amazon, 8$ for a switch/cord, 12$ for a shaft coupler (1/2 to 3/8) and 97$ shipped for the cutting head in 223. I'm just going to mount it to a 2x10 for now.
 
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What's the shaft diameter of the Tri-Way? I couldn't watch Pat's video with sound, so I apologize if he covered it. But it seems like it's as simple as a shaft coupler from the motor to the TriWay?

ETA, I went for one. 55$ for a motor from Amazon, 8$ for a switch/cord, 12$ for a shaft coupler (1/2 to 3/8) and 97$ shipped for the cutting head in 223. I'm just going to mount it to a 2x10 for now.

Ive been having trouble finding a 1/2 x 3/8 coupler for a reasonable price, care to share where you got it?
 
Show me a pic of what you need and I should be able to turn one.

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Something similar to this I would think.

41hudJGhF4L.jpg


Tri Way shaft measures 0.354, motor shaft will be 0.500. No need for keyway. I have no background in machine work so Im probably having a hard time finding something because Im either looking in the wrong places or Im using the wrong terminology. (my search skills are notoriously on the sucky side)
 
.354 is 9mm

I don't have any metric reamers but could bore it if you can't find a 9mm to 1/2" adapter

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dff8ad74dd7b54cc5a3fac388a35e5c6.jpg


1/2" to 9mm adapter - need to drill for set screws but that's not much.

Had to chuck twice because I don't have a 9mm reamer and couldn't bore through in one shot. So it's not perfect but will be usable.

Easier would be a bushing so a 1/2"-1/2" coupling could be used.

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I finally gave in and bought a tri way for 30-06 since I had a good pile of brass from shooting my Garand over the last 4-5 months.

Now I just need to decide if I should buy a corded drill (already have a bench mounted vice) or buy one of those electric motors?? Looking at Pat's video, it seems like the motor would be much more quiet which is nice if you're trimming cases for any length of time - or late at night when the fiance is trying to sleep haha.
 
I got a brand new trimmer that I'm very excited about. I need to do a little more testing on it, but I think it's going to become my "go-to" trimmer pretty soon.
 
Something similar to this I would think.

41hudJGhF4L.jpg


Tri Way shaft measures 0.354, motor shaft will be 0.500. No need for keyway. I have no background in machine work so Im probably having a hard time finding something because Im either looking in the wrong places or Im using the wrong terminology. (my search skills are notoriously on the sucky side)

If this does not get made for you let me know and I'll make it for you, haven't done anything nice in a while...
 
Well I finally tested the tri way trimmer for 30-06. I'm somewhat disappointed. I'm trimming once fired HXP (various year headstamps) and new factory once fired PPU cases.

The trimmer works perfectly with the PPU cases but I have to make major adjustments in order to trim the HXP brass. But I understand the brass is going to vary in dimensions/thickness etc when dealing with 40+ year old greek HXP brass which is probably the reason for the trimmer needing adjustment.

I'm also using a lee sizing die. I sized cases using generous amounts of one shot lube as well as RCBS case lube to see if it's me sizing/lubing incorrectly. But the fact that the PPU cases are pretty much exact from case to case, I don't think its a sizing/lubing issue?

Anyone using the tri way for HXP or other mixed headstamp brass and running into problems?

I suppose I could sort my brass and get all the PPU cases trimmed then make adjustments when I move on to the HXP brass.
 
Please explain why different makes of brass trim to different lengths?

I would think the thickness/hardness of the brass is going to vary which then causes different amounts of resistance when resizing. Not to mention how each of the cases might stretch/expand differently after being fired in my Garand's chamber. All of these variables will effect the amount of setback on the shoulder of the cases - which is what the Giraud tri way indexes/measures from.

I'm somewhat new to rifle reloading but this is my understand which could be wrong.
 
Different wall thicknesses result in different spring back (elasticity) amounts when resizing cases. So, if you use the same die setup to resize different brass, the shoulder will NOT be in the same place between different types.

As Andrew pointed out the shoulder is what the trimmer is using for a stop, so if you resize and trim mixed batches with no changes, you get different final lengths.

Usually this is not a huge issue since the changes are typically minimal. Unless you're being really, really anal about your brass. I'm not sure you're going to shoot and see grouping differences between brass that's even +/-.020" in length. Maybe I'm wrong and EC will chime in.
 
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Different wall thicknesses result in different spring back (elasticity) amounts when resizing cases. So, if you use the same die setup to resize different brass, the shoulder will NOT be in the same place between different types.

As Andrew pointed out the shoulder is what the trimmer is using for a stop, so if you resize and trim mixed batches with no changes, you get different final lengths.

Usually this is not a huge issue since the changes are typically minimal. Unless you're being really, really anal about your brass. I'm not sure you're going to shoot and see grouping differences between brass that's even +/-.020" in length. Maybe I'm wrong and EC will chime in.

Ya I'm not too concerned about changes in accuracy but more concerned with the ammo being safe to shoot if they're over the max trim length (as outlined in my Hornady manual) of 2.494"? I had some that were as high as 2.498". There were a few pieces of HXP brass that got trimmed down to 2.472" and some that wouldn't even make contact with the tri way trimmer blade. It's just all over the map with this HXP brass.

But trimming PPU, Winchester, or Remington once fired cases, they were all +/- 0.003".

At first I thought it was me and how consistent my motion is when lowering/raising the ram on my LNL. I tried quickly running the cases up and out of the sizing die then tried doing it slowly - didn't seem to help.
 
If it's that bad, I'd pull the HXP, as annoying as that extra sorting step is.

Yeah that's going to be really annoying because I won't know which pieces of HXP brass to set aside until after I try trimming them in the tri way. Since some would trim normally, some would trim below min length, and some wouldn't trim at all, I'll have to run them all through the tri way and separate them into 3 different batches. Ugh what a pain in the ass. If I knew this was going to be a problem, I would have just saved myself the $100 and continued using my $10 lee cutter and $20 lyman case prep tool...
 
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