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I love my new p226!
- Thread starter jasons
- Start date
Great gun, I have one. I am more of a Glock guy , but cant argue with quality or the feel of a good Sig! They def work! I use 9mm 124 JHP +P's in mine when i carry it, seems to be a pretty good load. You may want to check out the P220 .45 as well( a bit bigger grip) but in a .45!!!!!!! Four Seasons in Woburn is having a HUGE sale.
Good luck with it and buy as many pre ban mags as you can!
Will
Good luck with it and buy as many pre ban mags as you can!
Will
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- Joined
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You'd love an old P226 even better!
- Joined
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It is. I got to spend a few days with one at the Sig Academy in Exeter and have been saving pennies ever since. When Four Seasons started advertising their sale I knew my "gun fund" was going to dry up pretty fast.
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
I bought it in .40 S&W and have the .357 Sig barrel on the way from Midway (with C&R discount.) I'll be picking up a Bar-Sto 9mm barrel for it eventually. I'm also on the lookout for some nice wood grips, but they'll have to wait a bit. (Wifey wants a new bathroom vanity.)
wacky_doug
NES Member
+1 on Sigs. I'm up to 3 now. My budget can't afford another one yet.
They are great to shoot, but train on that first DA pull. I'm still learning to aim that right.
They are great to shoot, but train on that first DA pull. I'm still learning to aim that right.
Older SIG's slides were stamped from one piece of sheet steel. The newer ones are machined from a block of stainless steel. The milled slides are thicker on top and look a little blockier.
Also the inner and outer Heavy duty rollpins that hold the breech block in place.
Most the newer produced guns also have plastic guide rods and the guide rod spring is thought to be inferior to those previously used.
It is also believed that QC was much better, and thus more care and thought went into assembly (fitting parts and tighter tolerances).
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The older guns have a lighter folded slide, which makes the gun balance a bit better.
I've also noticed that sometimes the older guns have better single action triggers, and sometimes seem to be fitted better overall. This isn't always true, though... it tends to even vary a bit from gun to gun, and how often the gun was used, etc.
The only "con" I can think of is that some of them have significantly heavier mainsprings than the newer guns do, but you can probably get some springs from Wolff or whoever to deal with that. (Wolff sells springs for both old and new p-series guns) This tends to influence the DA pull weight.... and the mainsprings the guns come with are severe overkill, designed to never wear out. The older guns also have internal extractors, but these generally don't wear out very often, if at all.
There are rumors that the older guns won't take the pounding that the newer ones do, but I think that's mostly crap. IMHO the only reason they switched over to the milled slide is it was cheaper to produce, and they could make heavier slides needed for the .40 and .357 sig versions of the gun... not to mention that the factory in Exeter doesn't have the equipment/tooling to fold slides. If you manage to wear out or break a P226 (old or new) you should buy a lottery ticket, then smoke a cigar and drink some beer...
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
There is one advantage to newer P series sigs.. and that is that they can be converted to DAK. The older ones cannot because the frame is slightly different and won't take DAK parts. Newer guns also have the light rail, so if you want a rail, you gotta get a newer one.
-Mike
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There are the little things listed above, but the main difference seems to be fewer QC issues, mostly on the non-MA variants (such as the SAS) of the 226 and 220. Some people really like the slightly lighter slide, but the newer slide really does hold up to .40 and .357 Sig better. There's also an element of nostalgia and backlash against pistols with rails.
The major Con on an old sig, for me, is parts. It's much harder (but not impossible) to find parts that fit older models. For a combat handgun, that I'm going to be putting thousands of round through, this is a deal breaker.
The major Con on an old sig, for me, is parts. It's much harder (but not impossible) to find parts that fit older models. For a combat handgun, that I'm going to be putting thousands of round through, this is a deal breaker.
I have one of the older P226's and always thought it shot low. Talking to the Sig rep they told me for self defense they felt it was better for you to put the sites over the whole target. I usually like to set guns up so the point of impact is right at the top of the front and rear site. Some call that rising sun. I may cut the front site down some or order a slightly shorter one. I may just just file it down and measure where I like it for the new one.
Unless you are absolutely locked in, check out the X-6. If locked in, no problem, you will love the X-5. The X-6 is the same....except a 6"bbl. Had to wait 15 weeks for mine...Special Order only from Germany. Yup, was worth it.
![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
richc
NES Member
I have exactly the same problem. It shoots 5-6 inches low at 50 feet when I put the tip of the sites on the target location.
Misery loves company!
Still love my 226.
Rich
This is what they did by design. I was told they felt in a real firefight your not looking at the sites and your supposed to just cover the target with the both sites. I said you cant see what your shooting at with the sites blocking it. Anyway a file to the front site should do it and I know they make different heights.
Are you guys forgetting differences in eyes and the way they "see" things. That's what sight adjustment is for. I have "astigmatism" which means you and I do not see things the same way. Your zero will not be the same as mine.
My 226 Blackwater, 220 Equinox, 226 X-5, and now....220 X-6 are all almost dead on....astigmatism and all. When zeroing the X-6, had to come over a couple of clicks to the right. Period.
No offense intended, but are you sure you have an "absolute" zero, with your ammo, your grip, your finger placement, your recovery, etc. If in doubt, borrow a Ransom Rest. Let the impartial mechanics decide.
Are you guys forgetting differences in eyes and the way they "see" things. That's what sight adjustment is for. I have "astigmatism" which means you and I do not see things the same way. Your zero will not be the same as mine.
My 226 Blackwater, 220 Equinox, 226 X-5, and now....220 X-6 are all almost dead on....astigmatism and all. When zeroing the X-6, had to come over a couple of clicks to the right. Period.
No offense intended, but are you sure you have an "absolute" zero, with your ammo, your grip, your finger placement, your recovery, etc. If in doubt, borrow a Ransom Rest. Let the impartial mechanics decide.
I was told about the site picture from a Sig rep I met in a gun store and the Sig guys that were at the NES shoot in Raymond this summer. My P226 doesn't have adjustable sites for height and you drift for windage.
I do like the gun just have to remember to aim high.
Again, no offense, but aiming "high" is relative to the shooter. What is "high"? Each person has to know his/her own piece and adjust accordingly....not only with the piece, but with different weights of ammo.
Grin, we're not speaking X-ring bullseye shooting, but rather self-defense scenarios. Unless its a very critical placement shot, a couple of inches is not going to matter....no matter the caliber.
If you are not looking at the sights, there is nothing to cover. You are "point shooting" and going by "feel". Sights don't come into question...you are not using them.
Grin, as an aside (or example) of what I'm speaking of....going back to the 1800's and early 1900's. Folks DID face each other....Western Movies aside. They did "face" each other. There was no "alignment" of sights, "get a good picture", it was life/death. Just the way it was. Point and shoot....and a quicker draw was definitely helpful.
That was then, this is now. Any lessons to be learned? If your shooting a man size target at 15 feet I agree it doesn't make a difference. If I wanted to shoot the 9 instead of the 45 for a bowling pin match to save some money on ammo it makes a big difference. I did get crimson trace laser grips and used them some so I know its not me pulling down etc. It hits where the dot is when using them. I have switched over to just shooting the Kimber 1911 but want to get back using the P226 its to nice a gun to just leave in the safe.
Venue does matter....in terms of what you "like". Also have a Kimber 1911 (Grand Raptor II)....put it away in favor of the Sig (s). My 220 Equinox with the Sig Strobe/Laser unit is absolutely dead on after zeroing. Note: Found that the laser directions were actually the "opposite" of what actually had to be done to zero. Once I figured this out, no problem. On an indoor range, using really filthy and smoky ammo, the laser cut through all the crap. The strobe light created a "mirror", due to all the smoke....no kidding about the the smoke....but the laser cut through all that also. Yup, I'm happy and pleased with the piece and accessory. Minus the accessory (sits underneath), the piece is absolutely "dead on"....for my eyes. Really can't ask for more than that.
The other option is simply drift in another set of sights... problem solved... IIRC they make them in varying heights. It wouldn't be a consideration, IMO... I've had a lot of guns that I liked that I had to do this on anyways.
-Mike
-Mike
richc
NES Member
Speaking for myself, this is a problem for both my son and I. I've asked a couple more experienced shooters at the range for their opinion and they've come to the same conclusion after shooting.
So me thinks, in the case of my 226, it shoots low.
Cheers,
Rich
So me thinks, in the case of my 226, it shoots low.
Cheers,
Rich
