I'm now a 1911 fan..

[skol]

I had to send this thing back to S&W because it was starting to rust on the hammer, backstrap channel, ambi saftey selector level, and it seems also like it is starting on the rear sight! (after a month of owning it)

Also, theres this real nasty machine/tool mark on the part of the barrel which shows in the ejection port.

Also, the thing jammed up in a carbine class and I had to switch to a glock.

 

[Tucobkg]

That's why my 1911 is a Kimber! Never did like the S&W. However Springfield is another good 1911.

I had to send this thing back to S&W because it was starting to rust on the hammer, backstrap channel, ambi saftey selector level, and it seems also like it is starting on the rear sight! (after a month of owning it)

Also, theres this real nasty machine/tool mark on the part of the barrel which shows in the ejection port.

Also, the thing jammed up in a carbine class and I had to switch to a glock.

 

[fbirdquik6]

I had to send this thing back to S&W because it was starting to rust on the hammer, backstrap channel, ambi saftey selector level, and it seems also like it is starting on the rear sight! (after a month of owning it)

Also, theres this real nasty machine/tool mark on the part of the barrel which shows in the ejection port.

Also, the thing jammed up in a carbine class and I had to switch to a glock.

All of those parts are only blued steel and need to be cleaned and oiled like every blued gun to prevent rusting

 

[nanerclip]

All of those parts are only blued steel and need to be cleaned and oiled like every blued gun to prevent rusting

This.

No offense, skol, but it sounds like the rust issue was your fault.

The gun should be stripped down for cleaning/oiling/lubing (including the internals) right after you buy it and then wiped down with an oily rag after range sessions (if you don't clean the pistol after shooting) and after a day of carrying.

The blued parts, backstrap, grip safety, etc will rust like crazy if you don't pay attention.

In my experience, 1911's are like AR's, they run better wet. Use TW25B (or similar) on the rails (slide/frame), barrel lugs, bushing, and diconn notch.

I have yet to have any issues with my SW 1911's.

 

[Ray-500]

That's why my 1911 is a Kimber! Never did like the S&W. However Springfield is another good 1911.

I'm with you. Have a Grand Raptor II and love it. Had a Smith (temporarily) for less than 1,000 rds. Was supposed to have a long recoil spring guide....did not. Trigger pull was atrocious. Was very disappointed. As much as it killed me, got rid of it fairly quickly. The Kimber was/is great right out of box.

Been a longtime fan of Smith going back to the 60's. Still have a Model 19 that is slick and smooth. Perhaps its a sign of the times...more orders than they can handle....get them out faster....quality suffers. Don't know....only guessing. Perhaps with any Mfgr., large volume orders decreases quality? Again, don't know....can only surmise.

 

[skol]

This.

No offense, skol, but it sounds like the rust issue was your fault.

The gun should be stripped down for cleaning/oiling/lubing (including the internals) right after you buy it and then wiped down with an oily rag after range sessions (if you don't clean the pistol after shooting) and after a day of carrying.

The blued parts, backstrap, grip safety, etc will rust like crazy if you don't pay attention.

In my experience, 1911's are like AR's, they run better wet. Use TW25B (or similar) on the rails (slide/frame), barrel lugs, bushing, and diconn notch.

I have yet to have any issues with my SW 1911's.

Thats why I sent it back, because I had done this - but when I stripped and cleaned it after purchase the firearm clearly did NOT look "brand new".