Lee factory crimp die

gerrycaruso

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Anyone use it? My 32/20 RCBS seating die bottoms out before it can crimp and RCBS has been no help. The Lee die works but the instructions say to screw it in until it touches then go 1/2 turn more. That seems excessive. I went 1/4 turn more and the crimp looks like enough.
 
Anyone use it? My 32/20 RCBS seating die bottoms out before it can crimp and RCBS has been no help. The Lee die works but the instructions say to screw it in until it touches then go 1/2 turn more. That seems excessive. I went 1/4 turn more and the crimp looks like enough.
I use the collet FCD and I feel the same way. 1/4 is enough. Lee claims that die will basically create its own cannelure in jacketed bullets without cannelures. I think that’s the 1/2 turn. 1/4 is fine is you already have a cannelure or crimp groove.
 
the words 'Factory Crimp Die' describes a *family* of dies.

Some are Carbide (which use a carbide sizing (so really, a 2nd, post seating size)
and some are 'collet' (which uses a different method but is generally available only
for magnum-y rounds (357, 44, etc).

But yea, the ½ turn is a suggested starting point. I *think* I usually ended up w/ ⅜ turn
or similar.
 
The bullet I'm using is a cast rnfp with a crimp groove. I just want enough crimp to prevent the bullet from being pushed in by the magazine spring.

Do yourself a favor and put a set of calipers to it. FCD is good for undersizing lead.
It used to be in fine print (about 15 years ago) "Do not use on lead"
I ended up using a Redding for .45 acp before I bought the Sq Deal and RCBS for .38 because it would cut into and size down the lead.
 
If you're happy with the crimp, who cares what Lee's instructions say? I usually go more than what I probably need, but for revolvers I like a firm crimp.

For autos I go by the case dimension at the mouth.
 
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