chris_1001
NES Member
I use that tape on buffer tubes to take the rattle out of the stocks. Shhhh. It my secretTape is adhesive backed aluminum, not going anywhere.
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I use that tape on buffer tubes to take the rattle out of the stocks. Shhhh. It my secretTape is adhesive backed aluminum, not going anywhere.
I was going to drill and tap the stock for a set screw to put pressure on the buffer tube - will have try the tape.I use that tape on buffer tubes to take the rattle out of the stocks. Shhhh. It my secret
tape is easiest, i use simple duct tape there, an aluminum will probably be better, does not matter. anything that sticks well will work.I was going to drill and tap the stock for a set screw to put pressure on the buffer tube - will have try the tape.
Will have to drill out the plug to get to the recessed custom adjuster pin jn order to pull the stock - Mass compliance sucks for zero benefit
No clue but since the adjuster handle is still in place, you can still collapse the stock by pulling the handle out like you were removing the stock.Anyone have an opinion on this from Strike Industries? Says not OK for CA, but MA OK?
View attachment 728706
No clue but since the adjuster handle is still in place, you can still collapse the stock by pulling the handle out like you were removing the stock.
Yes it won't lock into another position but it is still collapsible.
I remove the adjuster handle and replace the pin with a short version sits recessed below the stock when the pin is in a locking hole.
Once in a hole, you need to have a screw and pliers (to pull on the screw) to release the pin.
As an added measure, I 3d print a rubber (TPU) plug that blocks access to the pin so you can't even just keep a screw in your pocket to adjust it. Pulling out that plug, while not hard is a pain unless you want to bugger up your stock.
In the end, it's really up to your risk tolerance.
No Tolerance: MOE® Fixed Carbine Stock – Mil-Spec
Some Tolerance - what I do (or fill the adjuster pin hole with epoxy for zero tolerance)
Moderate: AR Stock Stop
Complete: Just do what you want and let them find you in a pile of brass
No, if you pull on the adjusting handle to fully retract the pin like you are installing the stock you will be able to collapse the stock to the minimum position.It actually blocks it from collapsing. that's the D shaped protrusion on the left of the pic. You can remove the stock, then remove this. so that's where it gets dicey.
Super easy to pin a stock, I just though this was interesting.
Rechecked this - You would need to make sure the front blocking feature is up against the stock if you are using the longest length or the stock could move 1 position forward unlocked and still be considered collapsible.It actually blocks it from collapsing. that's the D shaped protrusion on the left of the pic. You can remove the stock, then remove this. so that's where it gets dicey.
Super easy to pin a stock, I just though this was interesting.
I was questioning the above (the once before this post) on the collapsing. I know you are supposed to cut it and position it so that it wont move. And at the max extended position.Rechecked this - You would need to make sure the front blocking feature is up against the stock if you are using the longest length or the stock could move 1 position forward unlocked and still be considered collapsible.
Either way, I would be weary of a fixing method that required zero tools to remove in the field. That method may be fine under California case law but I wouldn't want to be a Massachusetts test case.
What gas length and is the port properly sized and aligned? If that gas block is off by a 1/16” you’re covering up a lot of gas.Finally got a chance to take it to the range today.
It's short stroking - tried two different lowers on two uppers.
Both lowers ran fine on the 300AAC upper.
The 20" 223 was tossing cases almost straight back at me and wasn't stripping the next round. Last round had the bolt stuck at the carrier but not fully locked back.
Didn't think to swap BCGs.
Forgot to bring a front bag but after 20-30 rounds it started to tighten up and hit the same hole at 50 yards.
Need to fix the short stroke, install a bipod and get trigger that doesn't belong in the special olympics.
Checked springs and buffer weights - both 10.5" and 3oz.
Any suggestions other than buy a less ghetto gun?
Rifle length.What gas length and is the port properly sized and aligned? If that gas block is off by a 1/16” you’re covering up a lot of gas.
what was the ammo? your loads or stock?Rifle length.
Sounds like I need to pull the rail and check the gas block tomorrow.
Yeah definitely check that gas block and port. If it’s off by a little at a rifle length that becomes a lot.Rifle length.
Sounds like I need to pull the rail and check the gas block tomorrow.
No gas leak between the block and barrel - the leak is at the gas tube and is pretty minor.just to check the obvious - look if the buffer spring is indeed pulled all the way onto the buffer ledge and not left under. sometimes it gets missed, as it is a bot tight there to pull it on it.
well. the port on barrel is good. before enlarging it - it may be slight misalignment of the upper then prevents normal cycling, you can feel it by hand.
you can put some metal polish there and run it by hand, to see it bolt will mate with upper a bit better.
as if the current cycle stubbornness is just due to some extra friction of not yet mated surfaces and you will drill out the port - it will turn into a PITA later.
plus a 0.1" port on barrel is even above the 0.093" spec a bit.
is gas block on screws? put some of the barrel nut lube around the port before tightening it - it will cement the area around to minimize leaks if it is leaks where pressure is going.
let it wear , people pay for "battle worn" custom jobsI have some but not in a rattle can
Hit it with Rust Oleum flat primer and gloss top coat with a bake cycle between coats and after
Even with baking the adhesion isn't great so I'll likely strip it sometime this summer, scuff it with scotch Brite and then use an etching primer
my larue is a 20" long rifle gas, i think it is wilde also - no issues at all with weakest to hotter loads i use.Wondering if its a combination of a Wilde chamber and the rifle length system that just needs a little extra pressure since I'm used to a carbine length that I'm pretty sure is setup for running dirty and dry. The Bushmaster has survived several range days where I took a family and it ingested close to a case without any attention or failures.
Only had about an hour at the range so not a lot of time to investigate - will be trying a few different things to narrow down the issue since I have a couple of other AR's that run fine to swap parts around and see if the issue follows anything.my larue is a 20" long rifle gas, i think it is wilde also - no issues at all with weakest to hotter loads i use.
if it is low on gas and all ports are up to spec - it has to leak somewhere. if, again, you are positive it is not anything mechanical.
i would still dip upper into metal polish and ran it by hand to work out all mating surfaces. bolt bottom can have extra friction at the mag also, it is more common for ar10 builds, ar15 should not be that sensitive. plus yuo would feel it by hand if it was obstructing movement that bad. dunno. but there are no miracles there, it got to be something.
Im not even going to spew out specs but I was running cast loads at some very low charges of H4895 through a A2 platform with 100% function. So when a AR platform is not running well its usually a build up of a few issues, I have had a few inexpensive AR uppers come through with out gas tube roll pins installed....Only had about an hour at the range so not a lot of time to investigate - will be trying a few different things to narrow down the issue since I have a couple of other AR's that run fine to swap parts around and see if the issue follows anything.
Checked the gas tube - it is pinned.Im not even going to spew out specs but I was running cast loads at some very low charges of H4895 through a A2 platform with 100% function. So when a AR platform is not running well its usually a build up of a few issues, I have had a few inexpensive AR uppers come through with out gas tube roll pins installed....
and it was the first thing i asked you about.And like an idiot that's what I grabbed.
I didn’t grab the chrono because I had only very grossly boresighted it and didn't want to get tempted to short cut and shoot my chrono.and it was the first thing i asked you about.
it is a good habit to never test a new gun without a chrono - this way you know at once if there is an issue.
i just did it in the fall - got a lock with thumb scanner on amazon and just added a rear steel plate to an existing door and enforced the locks receptacle. it should sustain a moderate force now, which is more than enough.I didn’t grab the chrono because I had only very grossly boresighted it and didn't want to get tempted to short cut and shoot my chrono.
I need to close in my Reloading room to make it into a safe room so I can get more space to separate things out so I'm not clawing through the safe to find the ammo I need.