SO im a newbie and this is my first semi-auto handgun. Is it the trigger weight or the travel. The weight doesnt bother me its the fact that it doesnt go boom till it is all the way a the grip. Which is causing my groups to be all over the place. I did take my time and managed an up and left group.
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Mp9 trigger issues
- Thread starter HiVolt
- Start date
Garys
NES Member
If your gun has the MA trigger, get it fixed before even shooting the thing.
The stock M+P trigger is horrific.
There are at least 2 or 3 qualified smiths in MA that can fix the thing. Greg Derr comes to mind, LaRocca in Worcester does em, too.
-Mike
The stock M+P trigger is horrific.
There are at least 2 or 3 qualified smiths in MA that can fix the thing. Greg Derr comes to mind, LaRocca in Worcester does em, too.
-Mike
While I'm not a fan of my m+p, the trigger job, and a little practice got me to shoot it pretty well. It took me a while to realize that my finger was wrapping around the trigger, when I should have been pulling straight back. There is no way I would have been able to shoot proficiently without the trigger job. Good luck
look at this thread, and find Greg Derr's reply on the M&P trigger design (reply#50, page 5 )
PS if you want a reasonably priced trigger job with excellent results go to Greg
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=70404
PS if you want a reasonably priced trigger job with excellent results go to Greg
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=70404
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If I am reading you right, you are complaining about "take up" which is the amount of trigger movement necessary to put pressure on the sear. This should not be a problem once you become accustomed to the trigger. Most of the trigger movement is "take up" which only serves to deactivate the firing pin safety. You should feel a change in trigger pull or weight once you have moved the trigger far enough to the rear to put pressure on the sear. The short movement from this point on is what fires the pistol. The idea is to pull the trigger to the rear until all play is removed and you are putting pressure on the sear, and then increase pressure until the pistol fires; you are actually dealing with two separate trigger pulls. After the pistol fires allow the trigger to move foreward only far enough for the trigger bar to reset (you will hear and feel a "click") The short movement you are left with is all that is needed to fire the pistol as you have eliminated the "take up". Dry firing will help to develop this trigger control.
J
Jose
Some of you people should pick up a revolver. Master it and no semi auto pistol out there will ever give you problems.
An easy thing to try and see the difference is to change out the trigger return spring.
If I recall the one in my M&P was red and I replaced it with one I bought off Brownells that is yellow. (no cutting spring.. it is a legit M&P spring). It's a 3 dollar part and it made mine much better for me.
Schematic of the M&P
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=8..._P__Semi_Auto_
Part 18 on the list is the part I'm talking about.
If I recall the one in my M&P was red and I replaced it with one I bought off Brownells that is yellow. (no cutting spring.. it is a legit M&P spring). It's a 3 dollar part and it made mine much better for me.
Schematic of the M&P
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=8..._P__Semi_Auto_
Part 18 on the list is the part I'm talking about.
I disagree, I shoot a Ruger Sp101 .357 with no issues, and have for a long time.
Do you have the DAO model? Or shoot it SA a lot if you have the DA/SA model?
Because I can see were Jose and John are talking about a ton of DA practice helping.
Because I can see were Jose and John are talking about a ton of DA practice helping.
