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Muzzle device questions

Boghog1

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Picked up a rearden r2 flash hider for a 14.5" barrel, I need to get it pin and welded, any places in southern NH do it? how should it be aligned? opening at 12 or should I have one at 11 and another at 1? Do I need rocket if it is P&W?

 
Picked up a rearden r2 flash hider for a 14.5" barrel, I need to get it pin and welded, any places in southern NH do it? how should it be aligned? opening at 12 or should I have one at 11 and another at 1? Do I need rocket if it is P&W?

I'd call rearden, they may tell you it doesn't need to be timed. I would try it out first, just to check if matters.
 
Beat me to it. f*** that noise. I lived in New Hampshire I ain't pinning or welding s***. I want that threaded barrel accessible to me so that when my suppressor paperwork finally comes through I can ditch that flash hider.

This muzzle device is threaded for a suppressor. So, not prohibitive.
 
Beat me to it. f*** that noise. I lived in New Hampshire I ain't pinning or welding s***. I want that threaded barrel accessible to me so that when my suppressor paperwork finally comes through I can ditch that flash hider.
It’s due to the 16” barrel requirement at the federal level. Lots of people get a 14.5” barrel and pin and weld the muzzle device which would bring it long enough to meet the 16” federal requirement so that they don’t have to SBR the gun or go to jail. Some people prefer the 16” total length to the 16” plus muzzle device length.
 
It’s due to the 16” barrel requirement at the federal level. Lots of people get a 14.5” barrel and pin and weld the muzzle device which would bring it long enough to meet the 16” federal requirement so that they don’t have to SBR the gun or go to jail. Some people prefer the 16” total length to the 16” plus muzzle device length.

Ahhhh. Makes sense to me now. Thanks.
 
Usually don't have to time if using a suppressor. I time mine mostly for looks and in case I run without a suppressor from time to time. I don't like to P&W anything so I Form 1 and call it a day. Never really understood the rationale for a 14.5" barrel plus P&W to get to 16". Just run 16" w/o P&W or Form 1 and SBR if you want a PDW or other <16" setup.
 
Usually don't have to time if using a suppressor. I time mine mostly for looks and in case I run without a suppressor from time to time. I don't like to P&W anything so I Form 1 and call it a day. Never really understood the rationale for a 14.5" barrel plus P&W to get to 16". Just run 16" w/o P&W or Form 1 and SBR if you want a PDW or other <16" setup.
If you don't want to deal with Fed crap...The bayo lug is set back on the 14.5in, so if you have a 16in overall, you can actually get a bayonet onto it.
 
If you don't want to deal with Fed crap...The bayo lug is set back on the 14.5in, so if you have a 16in overall, you can actually get a bayonet onto it.
I know. But for 1.5” just seems like not worth it to P&W and deal with that permanent situation. And as noted in the other thread, I think Form 1 is simple and quick (unlike form 4 long wait) with the only drawback being the ATF notice if you want to take the SBR across state lines.
 
I know. But for 1.5” just seems like not worth it to P&W and deal with that permanent situation. And as noted in the other thread, I think Form 1 is simple and quick (unlike form 4 long wait) with the only drawback being the ATF notice if you want to take the SBR across state lines.

It’s not an ATF notice to cross state lines, it’s a permission request. And they can say no.

A 13.x/14.5” carbine does handle noticeably different than a 16”. And P&Ws aren’t actually permanent. A good shop will use a pin that can easily be drilled out later if you so desire. Another option is silver solder which can be done and undone at home. Just requires being careful and using thermal paste.

But, user preference. I get that plenty of people like 16”ers just fine.
 
It’s not an ATF notice to cross state lines, it’s a permission request. And they can say no.

A 13.x/14.5” carbine does handle noticeably different than a 16”. And P&Ws aren’t actually permanent. A good shop will use a pin that can easily be drilled out later if you so desire. Another option is silver solder which can be done and undone at home. Just requires being careful and using thermal paste.

But, user preference. I get that plenty of people like 16”ers just fine.
Yes, technically permission. I know. I don’t view as a big deal b/c most folks aren’t traveling the country with SBRs and suppressors and if you go to same place often then you can do a single annual filing. Or can make sure your travel gun is not NFA. Lol. When I was in MA I always did silver solder myself. Get an oxy-mapp torch, 1100 degree silver solder and thermal paste to protect the barrel. Easier to reverse. But overall, IMO all a waste of time to save 1.5”.
 
LOL let's pig pile on the OP for wanting to stay out of Club Fed for having a rifle with a barrel under 16".

14.5" plus P&W brake = legal.

Read piggies, read! (LOL I've probably done the same)

[rofl]

View attachment 838133
Didn't you hear? NH is so damn free NFA laws aren't even valid there.

Pin and welding a muzzle device to a 14.5" rifle barrel to bring it to 16" is for Massachusetts losers under communist rule!
 
Shout out to @Golddiggie for helping me make my barrel legal to attach to a rifle with having to pay $200 for the kings permission.
I didn't even think about pulling out the Dremel until you had already left to make the thing look better. At least you're legal with the AFT. Any agents that look at the thing will see the weld on it so you won't need to worry about them jamming you up over it. It was mentioned at a recent club meeting how there are officers that come to the club and will report things seen up the chain. They won't do anything on club grounds, just wait for you to leave and THEN ruin your life.

IMO, spending a little time to make it a non-issue is a good thing.
 
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