My First AR?

Thanks for preaching about this, having a person say they dont know what it is, still preach about it and not bother to explain.

I dont know how we survive at the range without knowing about pos, neg or neutral triggers [rofl]

Wicked helpful, guy!

The response was directed at building a firearm not one at the range. I was debating the validity of telling a person it is SAFE for them to build there own rifle without the proper information on how to do so SAFELY. I do not find unsafe practices funny sorry.
 
Thanks for preaching about this, having a person say they dont know what it is, still preach about it and not bother to explain.

I dont know how we survive at the range without knowing about pos, neg or neutral triggers [rofl]

Wicked helpful, guy!

Its a quick and easy test.
Separate the upper and lower. with the hammer back and safety off, very slowly pull the trigger, as you feel the creep in the trigger, watch what the hammer does... If it moves ever so slightly in to the receiver, this is positive. doesn't move is neutral and if it moves higher, its negative. Positive is ok as it means the angle are working against each other before the hammer breaks. neutral is great for target triggers, but if the wear, they go negative. Negative is bad as only friction is holding the hammer to the sear, and it can easily fail

A quick and easy to see example is the difference between the stock M&P sear and an Apex sear
 
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Its a quick and easy test.
Separate the upper and lower. with the hammer back and safety off, very slowly pull the trigger, as you feel the creep in the trigger, watch what the hammer does... If it moves ever so slightly in to the receiver, this is positive. doesn't move is neutral and if it moves higher, its negative. Positive is ok as it means the angle are working against each other before the hammer breaks. neutral is great for target triggers, but if the wear, they go negative. Negative is bad as only friction is holding the hammer to the sear, and it can easily fail

A quick and easy to see example is the difference between the stock M&P sear and an Apex sear

Wow. Nice thread save - brought it back from the brink - great info... Do you check this before every match or range trip? One of these days I have a trigger question for you, but I'll save it for another thread...
 
Wow. Nice save - great info... Do you check this before every match or range trip? One of these days I have a trigger question for you, but I'll save it for another thread...

I check it if the gun fires rounds faster than I pull the trigger

Send me a PM on the trigger question if you want
 
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By who? Why is a 1000 mile trip any different than 1000 miles of commuting.

In other words, you're being ridiculous.

Glad you asked. Answer is simple. Because on a long trip I may go over my normal maintenance schedule. Plus being farther from home I may not know the area or the people there. So again it is a safety issue for me.
 
However having demonstrated you do not have understanding of something as basic and important as the proper functioning of a trigger you really should not be giving advice to others without a caveat regarding your own knowledge on the subject at hand.

Stop being an ass and try to be helpful instead.
 
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Stop being an ass and try to be helpful instead.

Name calling is not necessary.

I thought that's what I was doing to the person who asked the original question. However I see that that is not at all what was wanted. I apologize. To the original poster. I am truly sorry that when tried to point out what I consider some very important safety issues involved in building a firearm people took offense to not knowing what said ( kind of my point about knowing what your doing ) and thought that complaining instead of doing some research on there own was more important then your safety. I stand by what I said.

I am done with this thread. To the original poster Good luck with your build or new rifle be safe. I would be happy to answer any questions or help you any way I can in private.

 
Good thing you weren't working with the Wright Brothers. Please educate me in positive negative and neutral triggers as the concept relates to an AR build.

The response was directed at building a firearm not one at the range. I was debating the validity of telling a person it is SAFE for them to build there own rifle without the proper information on how to do so SAFELY. I do not find unsafe practices funny sorry.



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I'm going to take my unsafe AR out to the range this weekend and risk the lives of everyone around me while I massacre a mess of targets. You have been warned.
 
Please educate me in positive negative and neutral triggers as the concept relates to an AR build.

Its a quick and easy test.
Separate the upper and lower. with the hammer back and safety off, very slowly pull the trigger, as you feel the creep in the trigger, watch what the hammer does... If it moves ever so slightly in to the receiver, this is positive. doesn't move is neutral and if it moves higher, its negative. Positive is ok as it means the angle are working against each other before the hammer breaks. neutral is great for target triggers, but if the wear, they go negative. Negative is bad as only friction is holding the hammer to the sear, and it can easily fail

A quick and easy to see example is the difference between the stock M&P sear and an Apex sear

If Travis would have stated this instead of standing on his soap box and preaching to everyone what they should or shouldn't do according to his self-important opinion, he wouldn't have been acting like an ass.

But he didn't do that.
 
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Its a quick and easy test.
Separate the upper and lower. with the hammer back and safety off, very slowly pull the trigger, as you feel the creep in the trigger, watch what the hammer does... If it moves ever so slightly in to the receiver, this is positive. doesn't move is neutral and if it moves higher, its negative. Positive is ok as it means the angle are working against each other before the hammer breaks. neutral is great for target triggers, but if the wear, they go negative. Negative is bad as only friction is holding the hammer to the sear, and it can easily fail

A quick and easy to see example is the difference between the stock M&P sear and an Apex sear

Very interesting. Did not know that. Thanks for posting.

B
 
Isn't MP and HPT commonplace on all mainstream parts from the factory now-a-days? You can always be more safe, and IMO, doing everything you outlined, is a little bit paranoid/over the top. Buying good parts and doing a functions check, should be more than adequate.

Even in the off chance that an AR did have a catastrophic failure (There are vids out there), it is incredibly unlikely you would be seriously injured. The stress of worrying about these kind of things will give you a heart attack before an AR explodes in your hands and you catch the perfect pieces of shrapnel to both jugulars.

Mike
 
Isn't MP and HPT commonplace on all mainstream parts from the factory now-a-days? You can always be more safe, and IMO, doing everything you outlined, is a little bit paranoid/over the top. Buying good parts and doing a functions check, should be more than adequate.

Not really, some companies don't do it at all, some do batch testing, while others test each one.
 
Not really, some companies don't do it at all, some do batch testing, while others test each one.

Hence the part about buying good parts, methinks.


I'm still curious....has anyone ever encountered a negative trigger on an AR? I don't quite see how the geometry would allow it.
 
Remsport has all parts for AR building.
Stop by and check us out.
Or call
By the way the labor charge for us to build a custom AR for you is only $100.00 The biggest cost in building an AR is in the parts. So if you build the gun yourself you will save around a $100.00, However you will have to buy some tools and besides if we build a gun for you, you get a life time warranty and each gun is tested before you take delivery.
413 579 1994
Thanks
John
 
I'm still curious....has anyone ever encountered a negative trigger on an AR? I don't quite see how the geometry would allow it.

I didn't like the stock RRA one, felt like plastic, when I shot it, hated to shoot it.

I've had a friend who built up his lower use a DPMS and he couldn't install the trigger since it was so off spec.
 
Back from the range with my unsafe AR which I've decided to name 'Deathtrap' as it's only a matter of time before it up and kills someone.

Nobody died.

As you were.
 
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