new M1A, some questions

AllaSnackbah

AllaSnackbah

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recently got myself a loaded M1A, un-bedded, with a NM barrel. absolutely love it, actually would love to hook up with anyone locally who has one and do some shooting. anyways, did some reading online and it seems that guys dont like to break it all the way down and clean it after shooting b/c taking the stock off too much can affect accuracy. is there any truth to this with an un-bedded stock? what do you do to clean your M1A after shooting and how often do you clean it? i have always cleaned my guns after every use but if your not supposed to strip the rifle down too much ill just stick to cleaning the barrel and greasing what i can instead of a full strip. thanks for your opinions!
 
I can't imagine why someone would want to fully strip range toys after every use for cleaning. Run the rod down the barrel a few times and lubricate. Do a more thorough cleaning every few trips.
 
If this was a bedded M1A then you should only take it out of the stock when you need to. As a GI type rifle, you can take it out of the stock without any issues as often as you like.

B
 
vellnueve said:
I can't imagine why someone would want to fully strip range toys after every use for cleaning. Run the rod down the barrel a few times and lubricate. Do a more thorough cleaning every few trips.
Click to expand...

call me anal i guess, but i just spent upwards of 2k on a rifle and i would like to keep it in the best shape as possible. i have been cleaning it that way since i got it, usually just wipe it down, clean the barrel, and grease as necessary every time i shoot. i guess my main ? is how frequently should i strip it down and clean it thoroughly? i use milsurp ammo usually.
 
It's not like an AR that craps where it eats. It really does not get too dirty in inaccessible places. With match rifles that are bedded we would only take them out at the end of the season unless they got soaked in a downpour. I'd make sure it is greased when you shoot. We would clean the piston every couple of hundred but that really isn't necessary of a rack grad gun. Maybe every 1000 rounds or so.

B
 
You really, really, listen to bpm990d when he talks about any subject regarding rifle accuracy.

But you REALLY, REALLY need to listen to him when he talks about maintaining high-accuracy M14 type rifles.
 
Just a few tips:

Get a bore guide.

Put a stripper clip in the slot to hold back the bolt. You can accidently hit it too hard with the rod and trip it home.

Turn rifle upside down when cleaning barrel so's any crap doesn't run down into the gas system.

A spent 30-06 shell in the chamber makes taking the bolt apart a breeze.

It's been a while since I've had mine out to play, but those are a few things I always did.
 
thanks for the advice guys. i absolutely love this rifle. at 100 yards this weekend i nearly bested my friend shooting clays. from standing position, me with my iron sights and him with a high dollar AR with an ACOG. i want to become proficient with this rifle in every way possible and asking people who really know their stuff helps. so thanks guys.

bpm990d said:
It's not like an AR that craps where it eats. It really does not get too dirty in inaccessible places. With match rifles that are bedded we would only take them out at the end of the season unless they got soaked in a downpour. I'd make sure it is greased when you shoot. We would clean the piston every couple of hundred but that really isn't necessary of a rack grad gun. Maybe every 1000 rounds or so.

B
Click to expand...

thank you for the advice
 
Very timely thread. I have an M1A Scout Rifle waiting for me to finish paying off at my local gun store. This will give me some good reading before I get it.
 
As a long time M1A/M14 fan, I think the biggest mistake people make with this rifle is failing to understand the function of the rifle and how to set it up and maintain it. Many pick them up at the dealer, spray a little CLP on the bolt, grab some Remington Core Loks and hit the range. At the moment of the first trigger pull, they may determine the accuracy and function of their rifle, (or lack). Here's a few off the top of my head tips. I'm sure the more learned will fill in the gaps:

- First, set up your rifle properly. You can survive without them, but companies like Sadlak and Badger make some handy tools to make your journey easier. Things like drill bits for cleaning your piston, gas tube wrench, roller greaser, bore guides, etc.

- I watched a guy take an M1A out of the box, use a box wrench to pull the piston plug, the coat his piston with CLP, reassemble and shoot. Please, run your piston, chamber and bolt face dry.

- grease your bolt roller, op rod channel, oprod spring and guide and your bolt channels. I use Militec-1, but have had luck with Lucas automotive grease.

With my rifle set up, I'd clean it maybe every 1,000 rounds or so and that was mostly a cleaning of the piston and a run down the barrel and reapply grease if needed. I discovered pull-thru cleaning a few years ago, so rods are gone. I just keep my piston and barrel clean and once or twice a year, I field strip. I know match shooters who do not clean their rifles until after the season is over...
 
Last edited:
MassMark said:
As a long time M1A/M14 fan, I think the biggest mistake people make with this rifle is failing to understand the function of the rifle and how to set it up and maintain it. Many pick them up at the dealer, spray a little CLP on the bolt, grab some Remington Core Loks and hit the range. At the moment of the first trigger pull, they may determine the accuracy and function of their rifle, (or lack). Here's a few off the top of my head tips. I'm sure the more learned will fill in the gaps:

- First, set up your rifle properly. You can survive without them, but companies like Sadlak and Badger make some handy tools to make your journey easier. Things like drill bits for cleaning your piston, gas tube wrench, roller greaser, bore guides, etc.

- I watched a guy take an M1A out of the box, use a box wrench to pull the piston plug, the coat his piston with CLP, reassemble and shoot. Please, run your piston, chamber and bolt face dry.

- grease your bolt roller, op rod channel, oprod spring and guide and your bolt channels. I use Militec-1, but have had luck with Lucas automotive grease.

With my rifle set up, I'd clean it maybe every 1,000 rounds or so and that was mostly a cleaning of the piston and a run down the barrel and reapply grease if needed. I discovered pull-thru cleaning a few years ago, so rods are gone. I just keep my piston and barrel clean and once or twice a year, I field strip. I know match shooters who do not clean their rifles until after the season is over...
Click to expand...

Great post Mark - right on the money IME.
 
MassMark said:
As a long time M1A/M14 fan, I think the biggest mistake people make with this rifle is failing to understand the function of the rifle and how to set it up and maintain it. Many pick them up at the dealer, spray a little CLP on the bolt, grab some Remington Core Loks and hit the range. At the moment of the first trigger pull, they may determine the accuracy and function of their rifle, (or lack). Here's a few off the top of my head tips. I'm sure the more learned will fill in the gaps:

- First, set up your rifle properly. You can survive without them, but companies like Sadlak and Badger make some handy tools to make your journey easier. Things like drill bits for cleaning your piston, gas tube wrench, roller greaser, bore guides, etc.

- I watched a guy take an M1A out of the box, use a box wrench to pull the piston plug, the coat his piston with CLP, reassemble and shoot. Please, run your piston, chamber and bolt face dry.

- grease your bolt roller, op rod channel, oprod spring and guide and your bolt channels. I use Militec-1, but have had luck with Lucas automotive grease.

With my rifle set up, I'd clean it maybe every 1,000 rounds or so and that was mostly a cleaning of the piston and a run down the barrel and reapply grease if needed. I discovered pull-thru cleaning a few years ago, so rods are gone. I just keep my piston and barrel clean and once or twice a year, I field strip. I know match shooters who do not clean their rifles until after the season is over...
Click to expand...

awesome post man thanks alot.
 
PowerJoker6.0 said:
awesome post man thanks alot.
Click to expand...

+1, great thread.

Speaking of gas tube wrench, I've seen one with a slightly wobbly front site and a "ring" to the flash hider when it is fired or bolt racked. I checked the tension of the barrel nut by hand and it felt tight, but I didn't have a wrench to lock it down. Is this common, and does it sound like my hunch of a loose barrel nut is correct?
 
I just picked up a used (very lightly used it appears) M1A Scout Rifle and am wondering what I should check, if anything, before shooting it for the first time. Should I tear it down in accordance with some of the references above (e.g., Zediker), lube it as suggested, before taking it to the range? And what tools do you suggest that I pick up for my toolbox?
 
MassMark said:
- I watched a guy take an M1A out of the box, use a box wrench to pull the piston plug, the coat his piston with CLP, reassemble and shoot. Please, run your piston, chamber and bolt face dry.
Click to expand...
I understand and agree with running the piston, chamber, and bolt face dry. That's what I do.

But what is wrong with using a box wrench to unscrew the piston plug? It works just fine and I don't need to buy another tool.
 
I've had an M1A since the Spring. I'm always trying to learn more about it and improve maintenance. With that said I've found plenty of videos or references about field stripping. Not many about a complete breakdown. Specifically I've thinking about the front sight and flash hider removal and the gas system breakdown. These are not things I have broken down yet. For the gas system the rule of thumb I've heard is 1000+ rounds. I'm approaching that now and want to know what the hell I'm doing before making the attempt.

So I found this: http://www.independencearmory.com/downloads/M14_Articles/M14_Complete_Disassembly.pdf

I plan on using that for reference in the next month or so. If anyone has any other tips or references please pass them on.

Also, when I have the gas system broken down I plan on shimming it. I see the kits only cost around $15. I saw this reference on youtube to give my some idea of how easy it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5BMTGVXEHQ
 
M1911 said:
I understand and agree with running the piston, chamber, and bolt face dry. That's what I do.

But what is wrong with using a box wrench to unscrew the piston plug? It works just fine and I don't need to buy another tool.
Click to expand...

The risk with a simple open-end or box wrench (assuming it will clear the barrel) is the risk of it slipping and marring something. In the shop (as opposed to the field), I use an ordinary socket at the end of a 12" extender bar. Nothing to hit.

EDIT: I use a six-point socket, which reduces the risk of rounding the already smooth flat intersections on the plug.
 
M1911 said:
Why? If it is working now, why do you want to mess with it?
Click to expand...

Fair enough. I'm not looking for trouble with the rifle. At this point the rifle is one hell of a lot more accurate than me. Honestly I just heard it helps with accuracy and reliability. I am a newb here. But my simple observation of the gas system can be tightened up this way. I figure with it apart anyway for cleaning, it only costing $15 for parts, and folks recommending it... why not?
 
darrowj said:
Fair enough. I'm not looking for trouble with the rifle. At this point the rifle is one hell of a lot more accurate than me. Honestly I just heard it helps with accuracy and reliability. I am a newb here. But my simple observation of the gas system can be tightened up this way. I figure with it apart anyway for cleaning, it only costing $15 for parts, and folks recommending it... why not?
Click to expand...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Use that $15 for more ammo, practice until you can out-shoot the rifle and then think about upgrading/modding it for more accuracy.
 
RKG said:
The risk with a simple open-end or box wrench (assuming it will clear the barrel) is the risk of it slipping and marring something. In the shop (as opposed to the field), I use an ordinary socket at the end of a 12" extender bar. Nothing to hit.

EDIT: I use a six-point socket, which reduces the risk of rounding the already smooth flat intersections on the plug.
Click to expand...
I must be missing something, because I've never had any problems with just a simple box or open end wrench.
 
RKG said:
The risk with a simple open-end or box wrench (assuming it will clear the barrel) is the risk of it slipping and marring something. In the shop (as opposed to the field), I use an ordinary socket at the end of a 12" extender bar. Nothing to hit.

EDIT: I use a six-point socket, which reduces the risk of rounding the already smooth flat intersections on the plug.
Click to expand...
The problem isnt marring the finish. The issue is torqueing the whole gas system if the plug is in too tight.
 
Gadsden said:
+1, great thread.

Speaking of gas tube wrench, I've seen one with a slightly wobbly front site and a "ring" to the flash hider when it is fired or bolt racked. I checked the tension of the barrel nut by hand and it felt tight, but I didn't have a wrench to lock it down. Is this common, and does it sound like my hunch of a loose barrel nut is correct?
Click to expand...
The "ring" is as it should be, but you shouldnt be able to move the front sight. You need castle nut pliers to move that nut, and dont forget the small allen head set screw.
 

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