New To Me Savage 10

[60 buckscash]

So I picked up a Savage 10 in 308. I am looking to use it as a brush/deer/hog gun. It has had the barrel shortened to 18". This makes it super handy and light. The previous owner said with the shorter barrel it "opened up" to a 1 MOA gun at 1000 yds but will hold 1/2 MOA to 500yds. As this is my first 30 cal rifle and given the vegetation (Central Fl.) I don't see myself shooting past a self imposed max range of 200yds it should be a while till I have to deal with that issue.

I had a couple questions:
1. Muzzle devices, should I leave the barrel clean or is it worth it to add something? Would I benefit more from a brake, comp, or flash hinder? Then, a clamp on or threading?

2. Is there a go to company for bases and rings for this rifle?

3. What is your bit of advice about these rifles?

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[KMM696]

Nice rifle, Bob!! You should have a good time with that. I'd be interested to know what FL hog hunting is like...

1. I wouldn't bother adding a muzzle device. Recoil won't be that bad, and a muzzle device is going to suck hunting with, unless you want to wear earplugs the whole time. Unless you're adding a suppressor....Is FL a suppressor state, and can you hunt with one there??

2. There's a good number of bases made for Savage 10's. I like EGW as a midpoint in cost/value, Farrell makes really nice ones. I haven't tried DedNutz base/ring combo's yet, but they look good.

3. If it's not an Accutrigger rifle, you should consider replacing the trigger. If the stock is plastic, and it's not one of their new Accustocks, you should consider replacing the stock, and glass bedding it. Start reading the Savageshooters.com forum right now, before you buy anything. Great info source on Savage, there.

 

[60 buckscash]

Nice rifle, Bob!! You should have a good time with that. I'd be interested to know what FL hog hunting is like...

1.Unless you're adding a suppressor....Is FL a suppressor state, and can you hunt with one there?? We are suppressor friendly and pigs aren't considered game animals on private property

2. There's a good number of bases made for Savage 10's. I like EGW as a midpoint in cost/value, Farrell makes really nice ones. I haven't tried DedNutz base/ring combo's yet, but they look good.

3. If it's not an Accutrigger rifle, you should consider replacing the trigger. If the stock is plastic, and it's not one of their new Accustocks, you should consider replacing the stock, and glass bedding it. The trigger is a nice clean breaking 3lbs without any creep or grit. I think I will keep it. I want to see how she shoots before I start ripping it apart.

Start reading the Savageshooters.com forum right now, before you buy anything. Great info source on Savage, there. There!

In red.

 

[StevensMarksman]

I do not own that model Savage but, I do own a Savage model 11. All I can say is WoW! The gun is a tac driver!

StevensMarksman

 

[xtry51]

I have a 10fp and I can tell you 180gr Barnes TTSX are pretty devastating and accurate.

 

[Queen Bee]

how do you guys think the Rem 700-P compares to the model 10?

 

[60 buckscash]

The savage is a basic, rugged, easy to DIY rifle for half the money. The Rem 700 will require a smith ($200-300) to do a barrel change instead of a vice and wrench.

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[60 buckscash]

I took it out for the first time today. My plan was to get on paper with some Tula and then fine tune with some brass cased ammo. I was on paper, looking great, and walking it in when the shot sounded duller than the ones before. The case failed to extract and I noticed the extractor parts on the table after I opened the bolt. Once I tapped the case out with a cleaning rod I found a rupture on the base. It was perfectly in line with the deepest part of the rim about a 1/3 of the way around. I was able to recover the extractor and spring but the detent rolled away.

I want to hope that it is just a case failure due to steel cased ammo. I think running a headspace gauge in it will put me at ease. There are no visible cracks or distress to the bolt face, extractor, or chamber. Gonna call Savage today.

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[KMM696]

If they don't just send you a detent, it's a standard ball bearing size that any bike shop that does repairs should have.

Headspace check is a good call, but I'm with you on the case failure theory. I had a round of Radway 308 rupture in my M1A that dissassembled the bolt for me. When I finally got the failed brass out of the rifle (which was, for various reasons, a complete clownshow), it was definitely bad from the factory. Looked as if the original chunk of brass the case was formed from was a bit undersized - neck wasn't completely formed and wasn't long enough to ever get touched by a trimmer. Split down the neck and into the shoulder and case body.

Good ammo, other than that one.

 

[60 buckscash]

$12 for the extractor, detent, spring, & shipping.

They don't recommend steel or NATO ammo.

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[60 buckscash]

I contacted Tula. They offered to cover the ammo, parts, and any smith costs. The new parts are back in the gun and the check from Tula just got here. Now back to the range with some brass cased ammo!

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[KMM696]

Damn.... that was nice of Tula. Here's to the next range visit being less exciting!