No sanding or any other prep?
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Rattlecan Paint job for rifle
- Thread starter SHOCKNAWE
- Start date
You can if you want, but then you can never go back. I just rub my down with alcohol and spray light coats. Even high use areas have not worn yet. If I was doing Cerakote or something I would probably prep better.
I've thought of doing this, where'd ya find the paint
45collector
NES Member
You weren’t asking me, but I got these through Amazon I think? The wife got them for me a while back so I could touch up the camo job I did on a kayak.
What’s a laundry bag for?
Yes. It forms an easy stencil.
I've done a few with different mesh sizes for different effects.
cockpitbob
NES Member
Love the dragonskin you can do with a net laundry bag. Also, try some fearn and small tree leaves as stencils. After the base color is fully dry, hold the leaves down with a little Elmer's glue stick. It comes right off with Windex.
Since it's rattle can quality, you can't really screw it up. Just call that last color you don't like a base coat![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
Since it's rattle can quality, you can't really screw it up. Just call that last color you don't like a base coat
I really wouldn’t. It will wear eventually anyway, whether you sand or not. But sanding will damage the original finish. Just make sure you remove oils so it doesn’t flake. Aside from price, the good thing about paint is that it’s not permanent. If you want permanent and durable, go with cerakote.
I used rustoleum paints on my helmet parts and M4 furniturethat lasted a couple deployments. It works well enough for the price and availability.
I prefer the aerovoe paints, for the variety of colors. But the can be hard to find.
I usually use mesh of different sizes on the same rifle. When mesh is laid flat and tight against surface you get a sharp pattern. When off surface a softer pattern. If one end of a short piece is flat and the other end off surface the pattern fades out. (sounds difficult but it is not. Just drop mesh on surface, fold over or bunch up one end) I like fade out pattern as my eyes keep trying to bring it into focus.
I like Krylon camouflage paint from Lowe’s for the “non reflective, ultra flat finish”
Read directions. Second coats should be applied before two hours or after 48 hours. It takes 7 days to fully cure and be chip resistant. I painted with one hour between coats then hung and let dry for 7 days. ( it’s hard not to fondle it but you can do it)
Mask off well where you don’t want paint. I had a little overspray with the dark brown drift into buffer tube on last one I did. Turned my rifle into a single shot. Not much paint, so little I found it by feel. Steel wooled it out in 2 min.
KMM696
NES Member
Anyone ever tried this for patterning a rattlecan rifle?
Scotch Restickable Glue Stick
It seems like it should work with paper - but I haven't tried it.
Scotch Restickable Glue Stick
It seems like it should work with paper - but I haven't tried it.
I painted an 870 with plain old red primer 20+ years ago. Painted the wood buttstock black to match the Pachmayr forend and primered all of the metal. It stayed like that, rattling around in a variety of Jeeps, for about 10 years before I got tired of it and stripped the paint.
It stayed unpainted for maybe a couple of months before I went back to red primer, which is how it remains to this day.
With the primer on it, it doesn't rust even where the paint is chipped, here in the humid South while rattling around in a soft top Jeep.
It stayed unpainted for maybe a couple of months before I went back to red primer, which is how it remains to this day.
With the primer on it, it doesn't rust even where the paint is chipped, here in the humid South while rattling around in a soft top Jeep.
Yeah - I might mist it with some flat gray or black to dull it down.
I ended up hitting it with some 000 steel wool to take a bit of the sheen off.I'd use flat black and very very lightly.![[thumbsup]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/044.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbsup]")
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Looking for opinions. I did my rail in green, I think it’s either missing something or too busy the way it is. I’m thinking I need to do the upper and lower in green as well. I’m up for painting the scope as well, just trying to figure out the best look.,Anyone got any suggestions?
Da_lucche
NES Member
I just used rustoleum camo paint: khaki, earth brown, army green, deep forest green and a mesh net.
In God We Trust
NES Member
If you are going for true camo, you want to break up the shape of the rifle as well as the color. You can get it cheap online
www.ghilliesuitwarehouse.com
if you just want to paint your rifle, disregard.
Rifle Ghillie & Camo Wrap
Camo gun wraps are essential to complete your camo kit for every activity. You may have the best personal coverage, but if your weapon is left exposed you may give away your position in an instant. Try our ghillie rifle camo wraps and kits.
www.ghilliesuitwarehouse.com
if you just want to paint your rifle, disregard.
