Recent AR build

[mac1911]

I recently put together a Stag upper H2 with MI buis. Zeroed at the factory
Mounted to A2 stock and S&W lower.

My range has been flooded out most of the summer. Leaveing me with just 25 yards to shoot.

@ 25y shooting 4" low from point of aim. Is the 5.56 4" higher @ 100y

Anyone know what STAG zeros there ARs @.

Im new to 5.56. Some one have a link to the rise and fall of bullet flight.

Actual balistic learning is new for me.

 

[RichM]

I'm not sure if Stag's ballistics are different, and the arc will vary some with barrel length and bullet specifics, but generally, the rifle-length ARs cross the same line at 25M and at 300M. Therefore, a 25-meter zero will also be the same point-of-impact as at 300 meters.

I believe that the carbine-length barrels cross the plane at 25M and at 250M.

See this thread to print out some zero targets (thanks, Dench!). These targets should be set at 25 meters, and they show you what direction to make your adjustments from the center of your groups.

ETA: The factory zero is just a starting point for your personal zero. Every shooter holds the rifle a little bit differently, so each individual will need adjustments to make the group land in the center of the target. If you always hold the rifle with the same cheek-weld and sight picture, the zero will always be true for you.

Of course, parallax-free red-dot sights mostly eliminate the variances between shooters; if you have properly zeroed the red-dot, anyone should be able to hit the same point using that scope.

 

[mac1911]

I did not have the time to do a good zero for myself. This was more of a function check. I found one mag that doesnt like this AR.I shoot mainly 100yards I like to hold the front sight where I want the bullet to hit.
A red dot is in the future. This is my budget build. so far in into it for 730.00 + 25.00 for a leopuold V-X111 scope scored at a yard sale. need rings now.

 

[RichM]

You should zero at 25M and then use the elevation adjustments to change your POI for 100 meters (or yards). That way, you can have a good zero for all target ranges with your iron sights. The elevation adjustment is very easy on the AR platform.

For the scope, go ahead and zero it at your typical target distance.

 

[mac1911]

OK so when zeroing @ 25m you zero for POA to be dead on to POI, correct.

 

[RichM]

Yes. Shoot 3-rd groups, and as long as they are approx. quarter-sized or less, move your sights as the target directs for the center of that group. Mark those holes, and shoot 3 more shots. Make adjustments, and your final 3 shots should only confirm your zero.

 

[andy t]

I am not a big fan of 25m zero. I use the Chuck Santose improved BZO as outlined in the following post:
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=22
It will give a fairly flat trajectory out to 200 yards. There is a difference between zeroing in meters and yards.
To achieve IMBZ you want to have your POI be 1.25" below POA at 25 yards and have POI/POA match at 50 yards.

 

[mac1911]

25m is 27.something yards. andy t, that was more on the idea of what I was thinking. Although I have a different sight set up. Thanks for the link.

Hope the rain lets up a bit, range has been flooded out. I might have to join another club to have more opptions. a 200y range would be nice.

 

[stinx]

A 50 yard Zero is one of the best all around zero. AT 25 yards it will be about an inch low. At 50 right on and just about right on at 200 or so. From contact out to roughly 200 the rounds will be off no more then 4 inches at most, probably less. Using this zero you can aim for the torso from contact out t0 200 and not need to worry about holdover or under.

 

[Madball13]

I grabbed a stag not to long ago with the same set up except left and it was dead on at 50 yards.

 

[vellnueve]

My carbine-length ARs are zeroed at 50 yards. My rifle-length ARs are zeroed at 100.