Reticle Preference?

Boghog1

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Thank heavens auto correct didn't change this to rectal, anyway back to the question. what is your preference, mil dot? BDC? basic duplex? I am looking to throw a scope on my savage bold gun, thinking in the 2.5-10x40ish range. It seems the market has gotten pretty crazy with all the different styles. I already have the one piece base with a 20moa tilt lean whatever the fawk they call it. I think I have narrowed down my scope choice to Bushnell Elite, Nikon Monarch, Leupold. I am open to other suggestions but I am trying to keep this budget friendly so no Horus or Nighforce

Gun itself is a Savage 10PC with 20" fluted barrel, accutrigger, .308 blah blah blah
 
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I prefer a basic duplex reticle. I would rather spin dials than hold over... I've never had a complaint about anything Leupold that I own. Thats quite a bit too. They're lite, rugged, have great glass, and a warranty that can't be beat.
 
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I have come to like the map 6 reticle that's found on the hawke brand scopes. Also the mildot style works well also. I have more scopes on my pellet guns than rifles. You can learn as posted above to range estimate with any type of multiple reticle.
The "mil dot " styles are a little funny to use if you don't really understand them. Also knowing how magnification plays with your zero's helps.
Mil-Dot some good info here
Also some good stuff here. More pelgun related but good principle http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_ZNjBUmKq4&desktop_uri=/watch?v=Q_ZNjBUmKq4

Most scope manufactures have some sort of software to dial in the scopes for different Cal.
I been use hawke for a few years now and the armchair pro software for pellet guns is awesome. You can print out cheat sheets that fit into your scope lens caps for different Cal loads distance magnification ect ect.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=cGHYExleLsY
 
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I have a Leupold VX-R 3-9x40mm with illuminated fine duplex reticle. In hindsight I might have preferred a mildot compensated for M193, but otherwise I love the scope. I would like to try a German style reticle at some point, perhaps on my far off .300WM dream build.
 
First Focal Plane reticles subtend the same angle regardless of zoom. The reticle gets bigger and thicker as you zoom in. Second Focal Plane reticles stay the same thickness as you zoom in and out, and the angle they subtend depends on the zoom level.

If I had it to do over, I'd get a First Focal Plane scope for my .308.

I'm shooting a NightForce 3.5-15X56 with their velocity reticle in the second focal plane. It's tuned for 175gr Sierra Matchkings, and it shows offsets for various wind speed/range combinations, but only when at max zoom. At lower zoom powers, the offsets are harder to use effectively.

IMHO, first focal plane and illumination are the most important things about a reticle. You can learn to work with any reticle, as long as you can see it clearly (illumination) and you know what it's marks subtend, which is easier with a First Focal Plane reticle.
 
[QU
OTE=coachjpg;3470045]First Focal Plane reticles subtend the same angle regardless of zoom. The reticle gets bigger and thicker as you zoom in. Second Focal Plane reticles stay the same thickness as you zoom in and out, and the angle they subtend depends on the zoom level.

If I had it to do over, I'd get a First Focal Plane scope for my .308.

I'm shooting a NightForce 3.5-15X56 with their velocity reticle in the second focal plane. It's tuned for 175gr Sierra Matchkings, and it shows offsets for various wind speed/range combinations, but only when at max zoom. At lower zoom powers, the offsets are harder to use effectively.

IMHO, first focal plane and illumination are the most important things about a reticle. You can learn to work with any reticle, as long as you can see it clearly (illumination) and you know what it's marks subtend, which is easier with a First Focal Plane reticle.[/QUOTE]


Unfortunately this info always seems to be found or known to late ie after you buy a scope. I grew up with either the standard 5/8 tubed 3x9 or the 30-30 style crosshairs of the 1" tube for hunting......when I returned to pellet gun shooting I started. Buying scopes
I then started learning more about them.
I come to relize that unless you shooting at a fixed distance 99% of the time.
I like the adjustable objective lens along with the secound plane focal of the reticle as I don't like how the crosshair or dots cover the targets. I have learned though the next adjustable objective I buy will have the adjustment on the side near the windage and elevation jobs vs up front...one of my favorite scopes still is a old lupould<sp VXIII
Its 3x9x30mm works great and hasxheld up to some abuse for many years.
Have fun with it. I find uses for every scope I buy even if it turns out not to be exactly what I was or though I was looking for.
 
Scopes with Horus reticles are starting to become more common and are coming down in price. Not sure of your budget but it really is a cool system (even if the view is a little busy)
 
The Horus looks great a bit busy but usable, but spending 2k on glass is not in the budget in my lifetime I would like to be under $500


ETA
Well in looking further unless I can find something used to get a FFP Illuminated variable power scope I will have to spend at least $800+ maybe time to look for a cheap 3x9 and save my pennies

ETA
http://www.vortexoptics.com/product...x44-riflescope-with-ebr-1-moa-reticle/reticle

Opinions? too much? not enough, I don't really think i need a 50+ mm objective lens
 
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I have had a good experience with Nikon Buckmaster 6-14 Side Focus with Mil-Dot reticle. While Horus reticles are cool, and having used one in a MK 6 3-18, while it's nice, since I was shooting a maximum distance of 300 yards with little wind, the Horus didn't offer much. If, however, you hunt, shoot unknown distance or in windy conditions, Horus MAY be more helpful - but it's predicated on seeing the splash from a miss in order to use the grid for holds.
FFP is nice, but realistically if all you do is bench shooting at a known distance, it won't offer you anything.
Personally, i would not worry about reticle as much as getting a scope that has reticle matched up to turrets. I.E: either mil turrets with mil based reticle or a MOA turrets with MOA based reticle. This makes adjustment much easier and faster, since you only work in one system.
Having said all that, right now,all of my scopes are FFP with Mil/Mil systems - simply because I think it's cool :)
 
Master Yoda says: To give a good answer, it really depends on how you want to use the rifle.
However,
If a budget is tight, and most you do is punch paper at known distances a used Nikon Buckmaster - I sold mine for $250 or Leupold VX 3 will do nicely.
The most important feature of any scope is optics quality. That's why I would never buy any Leapers/NCSTAR stuff. Following optic quality, ruggedness and repeatable turret adjustment are important. Imagine dialing what you think is 2 MOA but the mechanism is foobar,so you get 3.4 instead. Also mounting system is important. Please don't buy $10 dollar rings. I met a number of people at ranges that couldn't zero their rifles because of POS rings or a really cheap POS scope.
All the other stuff you mention like FFP, illumination, even matching turrets/reticles is secondary and "nice to have" if you have it in your budget.
 
So what did you get Boghog?

I'm dropping my Vortex Strikefire and 3x magnifier for a Redfield Revolution 4-12x.

Made by Leupold and only a couple hundred $$, great reviews, made in USA. [thumbsup]
 
So what did you get Boghog?

I'm dropping my Vortex Strikefire and 3x magnifier for a Redfield Revolution 4-12x.

Made by Leupold and only a couple hundred $$, great reviews, made in USA.

Nothing yet, unexpectedly needed to replace my front steps, I am leaning towards a vortex FFP
 
Pick one reticle for all your scopes. That way you only have one mental process for range estimation, wind correction or whatever you use the markings for. That said, I have duplex on the short range guns and my one long range gun has a mil-dot. I crank in elevation for distance but use the dots for windage since it changes too fast for knob turning.
 
Nothing yet, unexpectedly needed to replace my front steps, I am leaning towards a vortex FFP

Keep the iron.
What did you use for steps? Cedar with Poly? That's gonna be slicker than a goose's arse with diarrhea come winter. You ought to think about some grippy step treads....and use only earth friendly melters or you'll have the same problem in 3 years!
 
I have a mil-dot on my Leopold, but I like the looks of the horus reticle. I want to try one out at some point.

- - - Updated - - -

FFP Mil dot for me on all my scoped rifles. I prefer hold over to clicks. Ranging is easy.

Yep, that's why I went with the mil-dot as well. Sort of a jack of all trades reticle.
 
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