Revolver deep cleaning

[1903Collector]

I picked up a no dash 657 (posted in 11/24 acquisitions), now this thing was absolutely filthy and after a good cleaning I thought I just about had it done, but after closer examination it needs a lot more, especially inside. The trigger return is very gritty, not smooth like my other S&Ws, I think it's just years of accumulated shit that needs to be blown out.

Thanks to Youtube I figured out how to remove the cylinder and yoke and the side plate so I just have a couple of questions I would rather trust you all with. first, the ejector rod. I would like to disassemble it for a good cleaning but I can't get that f***er to budge, I know it's a reverse thread. I even tried wrapping a piece of thick rubber around it from a strap wrench and a pair of pliers, no go. Any ideas or should I just leave it be and hose the shit out of it with Gunscrubber?

Second, removing the side plates seems straight forward enough, I don't plan on taking out any of the internals as I should be able to hose it down real good at that point. Just wondering if theres anything I should be aware of taking the plate off, any "don't do this" kinda things?

Thanks.

 

[walter62]

for the sideplate, take the grip and sideplate screws off, then hold the gun
and a couple of whacks on the handle with the plastic END of a screwdriver
or nylon hammer. It comes right off

Not sure if this is useful...

Extractor Rod Wrench Remover [PC-ERWR] - $34.99 : GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories, Gunsmithing Tools and Gun Accessories

GrandMasters L.L.C., Gunsmithing, Ruger 10-22, AK-47, Ruger, AR-15, Ruger Accessories Extractor Rod Wrench Remover [PC-ERWR] - East to use tool enables fast removal and reinstallation of screw-in extractor rods from double action revolvers without damage to rod or cylinder yoke. Specifically...

powercustom.com

 

[Woodstock]

Don't bugger up the screwheads. Use the correct screwdriver. Midway, Brownell's, etc. have gunsmithing sets.

 

[walter62]

Amazon.com

 

[240Geezer]

Toss it in the dishwasher and don't tell Mom.

 

[1903Collector]

Don't bugger up the screwheads. Use the correct screwdriver. Midway, Brownell's, etc. have gunsmithing sets.

Yea, I've had gun smithing screwdrivers for many years, buggered up screw heads are a serious pet peeve of mine and not just with firearms. Actually I've aquired quite the collections of gun specific tools over the years lol

 

[1903Collector]

Got apart, very, very cruddy inside as expected. Hosed it down good and generously lubricated, much better now. I decided for now not to screw with removing the extractor rod, why push my luck lol.

 

[straightshooterjake]

Here are my very brief points.

1. Hollow ground gunsmith screwdrivers are a must. Sounds like you have this covered.
2. Never pry on the sideplate. After removing the grips, tap on the frame with a non-marring object and the sideplate will rise off. A plastic screwdriver handle works well to tap with.
3. After you remove the sideplate, there will be one loose part. That is the hammer block safety. It is important. Be sure to put it back properly. I'm sure there are youtube videos on this.
4. If you must unscrew the extractor rod, put spent shells in at least three of the chambers to protect the extractor from excessive torque.
5. As you mentioned, the extractor is left hand thread. You mentioned this, but it deserves its own bullet item. Also, the extractors were right hand thread until about 1957. If you are unsure which threads are on a gun from the transitional time period, then ask for help.
6. Do not take the extractor apart unless it is absolutely necessary. Most of the time, it can be disassembled and reassembled without any problem, but there can be a gotcha. Sometimes after the extractor is reassembled, the extractor rod is out of true. This can make the cylinder hard to turn in certain positions. There is a jig to fix this issue, but it is hard to fix without the special jig. Ask me how I know about this issue.