What possessed you to add a muzzle brake to a 10+ lb .308?
You know for recovery time on follow up shots.
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What possessed you to add a muzzle brake to a 10+ lb .308?
You know for recovery time on follow up shots.
What possessed you to add a muzzle brake to a 10+ lb .308?
Sometimes, attaching/adjusting/changing accessories (weights, muzzle breaks, etc...) to the barrel of a rifle can seriously effect barrel harmonics while the device is in place.
Ruger puts it on by default on Gen 2 RPR.
The less recoil the better?
With those light bullets and somewhat low velocity for a 125grain projectile your at about 8lbs of recoil coming back at you. I'm really doubting the muzzle brake is helping all that much. Maybe a really good brake might reduce muzzle flip a little.
So now the fun part....WHY is the brake causing your issues.
Are the threads not true to the bore?
Does the brake affect the frang bullets differently?
Also if your shooting skills are a tad rough you might be better off picking up a 22 and practice with that.?
Just because Ruger threads a barrel doesn't mean you need a MD on there. Honestly Ruger does that IMHO for the "tacticool" look.
I called my friends son who is currently in CA and asked him what he is using. He likes the hornady GMX bullets he uses them for hunting and also 500-800 yard prone matches. He has a tikka rifle with a basic leupold hunting scope.
If I where you I would at least not spend the money you do on frange ammo and buy some of the hirtenberger German 308 NATO ( seems to be very accurate for NATO stuff ) I think it will shoot well enough for you to practice with.
I will also toss this out there.
Get off the bench and go prone and support the rifle stock with a big old sand bag.
Remember every time you change something something will change. If you go next time and have a different set up don't expect the same results.
Certainly a lot of things to think about.
My problem is that I for now would like to avoid lead 100% (which means lead free primer and bullet) which limits my choices pretty much to nothing.
When my kids grow up and move out then I won't care about lead and will shoot any ammo I want but for now I would like to limit what they can be exposed to. Lead is really nasty stuff (will save that discussion for another thread).
I would be more worried about the acceptable levels of lead and rat shit in your food and water.
there are better lead free options out there for ammo than that frange stuff.
Anything that has the word "monolithic" in it will generally be lead-free...maybe not counting the primers.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...r-165-grain-gmx-boat-tail-lead-free-box-of-20
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...-shock-x-bullet-boat-tail-lead-free-box-of-20
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...y-copper-tipped-boat-tail-lead-free-box-of-20
I would be more worried about the acceptable levels of lead and rat shit in your food and water.
I would avoid using this thread to help in your decision making process. There were too many questionable/unknowable things going on in this case.Still having issues? I’m looking at these rifles as well.
thats better IMO than that frange shit.... i see that for use in "tactical" shot from a hk 51 or something up close and inside buildings where "Accuracy" is the least concern.I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle in a while.
Since then I got Caldwell Lead Sled as opposed to my cheapo Primos Group Therapy rifle rest that I had before so that should help.
Also got this ammo
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Federal-Power-Shok-Copper-Rifle-Ammunition/2302632.uts
So hopefully can get out when it is not too cold and see what I get this time.
Sometimes, attaching/adjusting/changing accessories (weights, muzzle breaks, etc...) to the barrel of a rifle can seriously effect barrel harmonics while the device is in place.