S&W airweight corrosion resistance from working out?

[crash82]

I was recently assaulted while on my bicycle, nothing major, but in different circumstances it could have got ugly. My carry gun is a Glock 26 and wasn't with my because its too bulky while riding. I'm looking at j frames, in particular the 442 and was wondering how it would hold up after getting drenched in sweat a few times a week for 1-3 hours at a time. Does anybody have any experience with this gun or any others in similar circumstances?

 

[40 caliber]

I've done some limited summer overnight backpacking (in my side cargo pocket) with no problems.
it was 3 different hikes with 2 days each out in the woods.
Sweated enough and It stayed in my pants pocket all weekend while hiking.
The person I was hiking with did not know I was carrying.
After a couple solid days of sitting in my sweaty grimy pocket, I just wiped down and oiled it when i got back

 

[OnTheRoad]

I've been carrying a 638 IWB for the past couple years on a more or less daily basis...Only things that tarnished were the grip screw and the brass.

I think as long as you wipe it down afterwards, keep it oiled and make sure the ammo stays fresh you should be good to go.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Anything but stainless is going to be subject to corrosion.

If you're concerned primarily about sweat contamination(which is exactly why I chose a stainless), find something in stainless steel, even if you have to bob the hammer to prevent snagging when drawing from a pocket...it will never corrode on you and you can seal nickel plated ammo with a dab of clear nail polish on the primer and case mouth.

Years ago I used to carry a model 60 stainless S&W chiefs special in .38spl......it was a little heavier than the newer hammerless aluminum or scandium airweights but it stood up to several years of being carried in a high rise holster while working and sweating as a mechanic. I still have it today (26 yrs later) and other than the light usual contact wear on the finish, its clean as a whistle. It'll take +P as long as you don't feed it a steady diet of them. I practiced mostly with 158gr .38 spl with a few cylinders of +P here and there but always carried Corbon +Ps as my carry loads.

 

[PaulD]

Anything but stainless is going to be subject to corrosion.

If you're concerned primarily about sweat contamination(which is exactly why I chose a stainless), find something in stainless steel, even if you have to bob the hammer to prevent snagging when drawing from a pocket...it will never corrode on you and you can seal nickel plated ammo with a dab of clear nail polish on the primer and case mouth.

Years ago I used to carry a model 60 stainless S&W chiefs special in .38spl......it was a little heavier than the newer hammerless aluminum or scandium airweights but it stood up to several years of being carried in a high rise holster while working and sweating as a mechanic. I still have it today (26 yrs later) and other than the light usual contact wear on the finish, its clean as a whistle. It'll take +P as long as you don't feed it a steady diet of them. I practiced mostly with 158gr .38 spl with a few cylinders of +P here and there but always carried Corbon +Ps as my carry loads.

Something like a 340PD with anodized frame and titanium cylinder should be more corrosion resistant than stainless.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Something like a 340PD with anodized frame and titanium cylinder should be more corrosion resistant than stainless.

What happens if the anodizing gets scratched?

 

[PaulD]

What happens if the anodizing gets scratched?

If it gets scratched deep enough, it's no longer anodized (in that spot). Yes, the bare aluminum on that scratch could corrode but it shouldn't travel like rust would under painted steel.

For most people, I think they'd be fine with either material but it seems that some people have death sweat.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

If it gets scratched deep enough, it's no longer anodized (in that spot). Yes, the bare aluminum on that scratch could corrode but it shouldn't travel like rust would under painted steel.

For most people, I think they'd be fine with either material but it seems that some people have death sweat.

Aah, but the corrosion can and likely "will" travel and undermine the anodizing at the edges of the scratch and especially if repeated exposure to sweat and or if left unattended.
I've seen aluminum bodies on vehicles(fire trucks) that were almost always rinsed well after snow/salt exposure, where the corrosion crept under the painted surfaces for several inches from a small nick in the paint.

Ever see how badly aluminum rims corrode no matter how clean and dry you try to keep them?

This problem is completely eliminated with stainless. The stainless used in S&W revolvers is of very high quality and unlike some cheaper stainless steels, will not ever rust or corrode under the worst of conditions.

Technically yes, most people would be fine with other alloys if they provide reasonable care for their guns but stainless is really worry free.

 

[mousegunfan]

Maybe just get a fanny pack and carry the Glock. Something like a Maxpedition that will hold up.

 

[PaulD]

Aah, but the corrosion can and likely "will" travel and undermine the anodizing at the edges of the scratch and especially if repeated exposure to sweat and or if left unattended.
I've seen aluminum bodies on vehicles(fire trucks) that were almost always rinsed well after snow/salt exposure, where the corrosion crept under the painted surfaces for several inches from a small nick in the paint.

Ever see how badly aluminum rims corrode no matter how clean and dry you try to keep them?

This problem is completely eliminated with stainless. The stainless used in S&W revolvers is of very high quality and unlike some cheaper stainless steels, will not ever rust or corrode under the worst of conditions.

Technically yes, most people would be fine with other alloys if they provide reasonable care for their guns but stainless is really worry free.

Very few aluminum wheels and no truck bodies are anodized. Aluminum wheels are generally powder coated and truck bodies are painted. It's not the same thing at all. Anodizing is a process that makes the outer layer of aluminum an oxide. It's not a coating. I've had plenty of experience with anodized aluminum items, exposed to salt, and they stood up well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Very few aluminum wheels and no truck bodies are anodized. Aluminum wheels are generally powder coated and truck bodies are painted. It's not the same thing at all. Anodizing is a process that makes the outer layer of aluminum an oxide. It's not a coating. I've had plenty of experience with anodized aluminum items, exposed to salt, and they stood up well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing

I understand all that and not to beat a dead horse here, the point is, where there is "exposed" aluminum such as a nick or scratch, even on the best of anodize jobs, there will eventually be corrosion. It certainly increases the corrosion "resistance" but it cannot and does not eliminate the possibility.......good stainless steel does.
Corrosion will undermine any coating or anodizing if it gets to the base metal surface and will travel both deeper and laterally given time. Ive seen the highest quality anodized aluminum parts succumb to corrosion over time.

 

[crash82]

Thanks for the input, I may take a ride this weekend and look for something in stainless, I want to see how much heavier the few ounces really are.

 

[Jbarila]

I wipe my 642 down every night with a silicone rag. Then polish with clean soft rag. Corrosion is not a problem even in scratches through the coating.

 

[GSG]

I was recently assaulted while on my bicycle, nothing major, but in different circumstances it could have got ugly. My carry gun is a Glock 26 and wasn't with my because its too bulky while riding. I'm looking at j frames, in particular the 442 and was wondering how it would hold up after getting drenched in sweat a few times a week for 1-3 hours at a time. Does anybody have any experience with this gun or any others in similar circumstances?

The difference in size between a J frame and a G26 isn't very much at all. Have you tried other holster options for the G26, something like a Bellyband? That's what I wear when I run and with a loose shirt it's no problem.

I think as long as you wipe it down afterwards, keep it oiled and make sure the ammo stays fresh you should be good to go.

What he said, especially the bolded part. Sealed primers are your friend for sweaty carry.

This problem is completely eliminated with stainless. The stainless used in S&W revolvers is of very high quality and unlike some cheaper stainless steels, will not ever rust or corrode under the worst of conditions.

Technically yes, most people would be fine with other alloys if they provide reasonable care for their guns but stainless is really worry free.

I've put rust on a stainless 642. I put rust on lots of things.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/110306-J-Frame-or-Kahr-PM9/page11

FYI, I've never sweated on that shotgun, that's from touching only.

 

[howitzer11]

Stainless does corrode, and pit. I have a smith 1911 with yes a rusted pitted stainless slide, and the anodized frame is just fine. The frame is fine even where the ano is scratched. It is a carry piece.