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That’s what DW supplied lol. What size/type of screws are these anyway? And where can I get grade 8?
Good question. I think one issue is that the screws aren’t long enough. This is all that is grabbing in the threaded holes in the shroud! They aren’t even close to reaching the end of the threads!is all the shear force on the screws?
is there a way the mount could be installed to take the force and not the screws?
Hopefully I can find some longer and better quality screws lol.They are common and cab found in Lowes, Ace, etc. even allen heads
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If it pulled the threads out I would agree but they sheared off above the threads so that's not the issue. You could go longer of course regardless.Good question. I think one issue is that the screws aren’t long enough. This is all that is grabbing in the threaded holes in the shroud! They aren’t even close to reaching the end of the threads!
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If you don't have a left hand bit that's a great method but they are cheap and any shop that does repairs should have a set.
Doesn't look like I had any loctite that I can see. Threads in the holes and on the screws look relatively clean.My only concern with the LH bits was the loctite, if it's too tough or gummed up on the threads it won't work very well. I use the LH bits at work quite a bit but I know for a fact things aren't loctite.
Ahh okay.If it pulled the threads out I would agree but they sheared off above the threads so that's not the issue. You could go longer of course regardless.
But those screws shouldn't have been in shear - they should have been torqued tight enough for clamping force to stop movement.They look like a 8 or 10-32 screw. Measure them with calipers to be sure. Grade 8 has the highest shear resistance.
Cool thanks. I’ll def measure them. Appreciate the help guys.They look like a 8 or 10-32 screw. Measure them with calipers to be sure. Grade 8 has the highest shear resistance.
Agreed, they had to have been loose. I think the lack of thread locker is to blame.But those screws shouldn't have been in shear - they should have been torqued tight enough for clamping force to stop movement.
Since I think there was little to no loctite I really think they became loose and the recoil killed them. If they were kept snug, I don’t think they would sheer like that?Those screws were loose - the clamping force should keep the mount from moving.
Look up the proper torque for the screw size (lubricated) and use removable thread locker.
Once these screws are out, I’m dumping as much blue loctite in as I can lol. As much as I want to use red loctite that seems to risky if I ever want to remove the scope base lol.Agreed, they had to have been loose. I think the lack of thread locker is to blame.
No it’s a factory Dan Wesson mount.Is that a Warne scope mount? Looks like a Warne to me. I found a spec sheet for the DW 445 supermag, this kit uses a T15 (torx) screw. .128in or 3.27mm.
Here's the link
M630G : Warne 1pc Black Gloss Dan Wesson 445 Supermag VH Base
Maxima Multi-Sight System has a proven track record for success. Hugely popular with the Smith & Wesson L, K, & N frame revolvers, the Maxima line has now been expanded to include Ruger’s Redhawk and Blackhawk line of hunting handguns, and the Dan Wesson Large Frame 445 Supermag.A new addition...store.gravelagency.com
You could always do one of those rib vent mounts instead made by leopold, those are rock-solid, and rare af.
I think you’re right.The scope mounts wasn't clamped well enough allowing it to work the screws in shear. The screws don't like that and surrendered.
Thanks. Looks like it may be these. But I’ll have to measure to confirm.www.mcmaster.com will have exactly what you need
That’s what DW supplied lol. What size/type of screws are these anyway? And where can I get grade 8?
6 or 8 -32, but someone already mentioned that.
Look for a stainless alternative to anything thats available at lowes or h.d. I've snapped their "grade 8" stuff with little effort.
It appears they’re 6-48 screws. DW used Weigand scope mounts initially and in the product description it says you need to drill and tap 3 6-48 holes.They look like a 8 or 10-32 screw. Measure them with calipers to be sure. Grade 8 has the highest shear resistance.
i bought this kit years ago to replace the straight slotted and phillips screws on alot of my stuff.Hopefully I can find some longer and better quality screws lol.
Dont use green.You said you didn't use any Locktite on those screws.
That will make it easier and is a good thing in there removal.
They should spin freely or with a little ease to remove them.
The threads on the revolver should be fine as the screw heads just snapped off.
You didn't strip out or cross thread them.
So it's just a matter of turning what left out.
Buy better quality screws and use a little green or blue Locktite.
Don't over do it. You don't need a lot of Locktite to hold them.
Just clean the screw holes and use a little alcohol to degrease the threads before you apply the Locktite to the new screws.
I've snapped bolt heads off and just spun the threaded part left over out with ease.
I still wouldn't risk it on such a nice revolver and would just wait and have it done right.