Solder on Muzzle Break

Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
1,835
Likes
372
Location
Free
Feedback: 31 / 0 / 0
Has anyone performed this on their own? Is this the least permanent way of 'permanently' attaching a muzzle device?

I've spent my fair share of time soldering in the past. I'm fairly good with a soldering iron. I can mirco solder boards and I have brazed my share of larger pipes also. I have zero experience solder on firearms and am just leery of bringing that type of heat to the barrel.

ZHA is my local smith, turn around is about a week and they probably won't solder it as I wish. The gun smith wasn't in today but he doesn't seem to think that he solders them on.

Anyone have personal input for me?
 
I was thinking of do it, with mine. But fear and common sense set in, that's the beauty of being old, after you think things over you realize you made that mistake before.

So I had mine put on by David Santurri, super fast, I think he did it in less than 2 days. I forget how much he charged but it was a bargain what ever it was, not having to do it myself. I know he didn't solder it.

But if your determined to do it your self. Don't use tin or lead solders most of them don't take well to steel. I would use silver bearing solder and you have to remember solder won't usually take a good bluing. Also if you get the barrel too hot you can not only discolor it you can also weaken the steel.

Good luck no matter which direction you take.
 
Definitely would have to use silver solder... however I'm thinking that eventually you're going to send something a little bit extra downrange with one of your shots.
 
Yes, I've done it. Let me give you my worst case picture of discoloration.

P2210102Crop.jpg


Lower one, obviously. That's the level of discoloration you get when you don't:

degrease the barrel & brake first
use any form of heat control
have a better temperature measurement than "red"


Still, it held. Couldn't get it off with a wrench and BFH, so I think it passes the sniff test. I'd have to check the container for the exact temp, but I believe it was 1200 degree silver solder, the type that's ground and mixed with flux. I haven't tried degreasing the discolored area to see if it's the metal, or the leftover lubricants I didn't remove that caused the color change. Mapp gas torch is what I used - oxy-acetylene would have been faster. The next time I do one, I'm wrapping a wet rag around the barrel, degreasing, and will try re-parkerizing when I'm done.

If I ever have to remove it, it will be much easier with 2 people. I can't picture juggling a torch, wrench, and successfully keeping the temperature up without also picturing 2nd degree burns.

It's a doable home project, but if you think you're only going to do one ever, it may be cheaper to let a gunsmith do it. Buying tools & supplies (if you don't have them already) adds up fast. I was also willing to accept the risk that my inexperience at this task could cost me a barrel and brake if I screwed something up badly enough. [hmmm]
 
Thanks for all the reply's.

Romokid, after reading the thread that you sent me, it seems that a blind pin and weld might be easier to remove in the future. I thought they had to spot 4 welds around the break, not just 1 tack on the pin. I'll talk to ZHA an see when he can turn it around for me and how much.

I'll call Greg at derr precision too and see what he has to say.

Thanks for the input and good luck with the discoloration KMM696
 
Last edited:
I'm not too concerned with removing mine in the future, its I just like to try to do different things like this. I have a mig welder, but I don't have it set up for the shielding gas, or I might try the blind pin & weld. The tank for the shielding gas from tractor supply was more than the cost of the silver solder and heat stop. I just haven't had the time to get the heat stop and give it a try. I was thinking about doing it on a dedicated .22lr upper for one of my AR's.
 
Greg Derr is who I'm going with. What a nice guy and he will turn it around in 2 days! Now I just need to wait on my barrel nut. I need to get everything on the barrel that won't fit over the compensator before it's attached.
 
Back
Top Bottom