Stuck allen wench bolt on free-float handguard

[mcshooter]

Hello,

I am adding a foregrip to my free float handguard yet one allen wrench headed bolt is stuck.

I d9nt want to shear it or break it.

What are other option s to add the Nagpur rail section for the foregrip on the free float handguard, beyond removal of the handguard to attach the rail segment

 

[appraiser]

a soldering iron on the head of the fastener to give it some reason to come out might be a solution

Warm it up a bit and then try removing it

 

[BenDover]

You might try applying some heat to it with a small torch or soldering iron. If there is thread locker on it you will soften it.

 

[84ta406]

Smash a torx bit in there if it's already stripped and use some heat.

 

[MAJoe]

Use a punch and hit the head so it spins counter clockwise. The shock can break it free, and punching in that direction, can loosen it. Use some PB Blaster or Kroil too, let it work.

If someone put something like Loctite 271 on there, the only thing getting that bolt out is a torch or drill.

 

[looser38]

This is why everyone needs a heat gun where you can control the temperature and avoid taking a flame to a part

Some of those hand rails are magnesium too......just saying

That shit burns real good!!!

 

[Rob Boudrie]

An option in addition to heat is penetrating oil like Kroil or the 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone, letting it soak for at least 30 minutes.

My successes with Kroil:
- Washing machine hose virtually welded to wall water connection. Washer delivery people gave up. I put a couple drops of Kroil on the threads with a syringe and it came off without undue effort by the time they moved the old machine out and the new in. You'd think I was David Copperfield with the delivery guy's reaction - WTF, how did you do that?
- 1911 ambi safety stuck at tongue and grove connecting tab
- Loaned power washer to neighbor, returned with hose on and could not be removed with pliers without damaging the fitting.
And a failure:
- Snowblower wheel rust welded to shaft. Googled and found a guy on youtube with the same problem and he couldn't even get his wheel off the shaft with a 20 ton hydraulic press.

 

[Camhabib]

Define "stuck." Is the head stripped and the wrench just spinning, or does the wrench still bite but the bolt just won't move? If it still bites, I've had good luck in the past with some penetrating oil and a soldering iron (or a blowtorch when it comes to my Wrangler). If you're already stripped, try going one size up in a torx or if you're feeling adventurous, one of those extractor bits (though I've never had good luck with them). All else fails, a good gunsmith could probably get it out in under 15 minutes for you.

 

[Rob Boudrie]

A safer way to head the threads is to put a torch on the allen or torx wrench to minimize the area of the item being heated.

I had an ACOG directly screwed to a JP upper (the upper was designed for this). No threadlocker was used but the screws felt welded in. JP told me "that happens", so I shipped the upper back to the factory that did something magic to get the screws out. I didn't bother to ask if they returned the original screws or destroyed the old ones and gave me new.

I now use a low profile rail based mount to attach the ACOG to a JP.

 

[mcshooter]

Define "stuck." Is the head stripped and the wrench just spinning, or does the wrench still bite but the bolt just won't move? If it still bites, I've had good luck in the past with some penetrating oil and a soldering iron (or a blowtorch when it comes to my Wrangler). If you're already stripped, try going one size up in a torx or if you're feeling adventurous, one of those extractor bits (though I've never had good luck with them). All else fails, a good gunsmith could probably get it out in under 15 minutes for you.

It's not stripped or anything I think it has thread lock on it -bought the upper second hand on this site not sure what was done when assembled. When applying the allen wrench it does not spin hence the thread lock idea.

Is there a way to add the rail section without removal of the free float handguard

I tried with no success to add it but maybe I was rushing and needed more time, if it can be added without removal of the guard

 

[308rifleman]

Hello,

I am adding a foregrip to my free float handguard yet one allen wrench headed bolt is stuck.

I d9nt want to shear it or break it.

What are other option s to add the Nagpur rail section for the foregrip on the free float handguard, beyond removal of the handguard to attach the rail segment

Break-Free CLP worked for a friend when he tried to remove a seriously rusted screw from an ancient single-shot .22 rifle he was refurbishing. You might want to try it. Marvel Mystery Oil is also good for jammed or rusted parts.

 

[appraiser]

The only things that defeat loctite is heat or brute force, and depending on the loctite used the fasteners will fail before the threads break. A soldering iron is as I said above your starting point, if that fails we move on to other methods

 

[84ta406]

The only things that defeat loctite is heat or brute force, and depending on the loctite used the fasteners will fail before the threads break. A soldering iron is as I said above your starting point, if that fails we move on to other methods

x2 on this. Worst case we use a torch, liquid steel doesn't stick to threads well.. lol

 

[mcshooter]

I was able to get it off and not break anything

Thanks

 

[MAJoe]

The only things that defeat loctite is heat or brute force, and depending on the loctite used the fasteners will fail before the threads break.

Depends on the Loctite. Blue 242 is easily removed by hand (what I use on most fasteners that need to come apart again). Never use with nylock nuts (it eats the nylon).

 

[MAJoe]

A safer way to head the threads is to put a torch on the allen or torx wrench to minimize the area of the item being heated.

I'll caveat this and say I agree in cases of thread locker (e.g., red 271), but if it's rust or galvanic corrosion, you want to heat the base material. Heat causes expansion, and if the fastener expands, you've gotten nowhere. You want the base material to expand and loosen the fastener before the heat transfers.

Regardless, dangerous game to play with threaded aluminum. You can pull threads if not careful.

 

[mac1911]

Did tou remove the upper from the lower and place it in a padded vice?
Its amazing how easy fasteners break free when your not holding parts with hands or knees

 

[mcshooter]

Did tou remove the upper from the lower and place it in a padded vice?
Its amazing how easy fasteners break free when your not holding parts with hands or knees

I actually got it off without a vice, but will do that next time I am doing something like it.

Thanks for the hints and advisement. I actually didn't need heat either. Just some constant pressure and time to focus on it

 

[BrianWilson]

I recently bought a new heat gun, and although I mostly use it for heat shrink tubing on low voltage wiring, on the high setting that thing makes more than enough hot to loosen any grade loctite.

 

[Camhabib]

I actually got it off without a vice, but will do that next time I am doing something like it.

Thanks for the hints and advisement. I actually didn't need heat either. Just some constant pressure and time to focus on it

I've read (though don't know if this is true or not) that slow constant force is the best way to prevent a head from snapping off the bolt but the most likely to strip a head. And that inversely, a sudden motion is the best way to prevent a head from stripping out but the most likely to snap a head off a bolt.