Suggestions for non-22 affordable long gun

I would say the high point, or a keltec sub2k that takes glock mags and get some high caps.

The other thing I would look into would be a 9mm ar15 with some high cap mags.
 
[cerberus];2713705 said:
I would say the high point, or a keltec sub2k that takes glock mags and get some high caps.

The other thing I would look into would be a 9mm ar15 with some high cap mags.

Its a totally different kind of gun than I was thinking of, but I have one of these and love it. Its ugly, and the stock isn't very comfortable, but it is a shooter. I do better with it at my local pistol caliber carbine matches than I do with my MP5. No joke.

Don
 
Although not a big fan of Mosin's(I have one, but much prefer my Mausers and all my other Milseps)but they are very cheap to buy, about $99 and cheap to buy ammo for(milserp about $89/440 rnds) and are a lot fun for the money.As for cleaning corrosive primer ammo, all thats needed is water. All this internet hype about windex, ammonia and other concoctions are a waste of time and money. The water in all of them is what desolves the salts. Flush the barral and bolt face with about 1/2 gal of water and then clean as you would any gun. Been firing corrosive milserp ammo in some of my guns for over 50 yrs and the bores are still perfect.
 
You mean ammonia is not corrosive to steel?
I don't pour it on, and I clean it right up. I believe it will take off bluing if allowed to sit. I also dilute mine substantially--1:5 ammonia to water.

I've seen plenty of people online who don't use ammonia. Some people claim pure water works fine. That puts me a bit on edge.

It seems opinions HOW to clean corrosive ammo varies widely, but everyone agrees that some sort of cleaning is necessary--granted, this vid was 2,200 rounds, but I'm all set with any rust and cleaning thoroughly if I shoot 22 rounds or 2,200.

Remember, the degree of rust will be dependent on how many rounds you shoot, how corrosive the ammo is, and how humid the air is in which your rifle is stored. The rust is caused not by the corrosive salts directly, but by the manner in which those salts draw the moisture out of the air and serve as an electrolyte for the chemical reaction of water and iron to bind for rust to form. To give you an example of how salt draws moisture out of the air, in addition to melting ice, road salt also works great in the summer to hold down dust of dirt roads. It does this by drawing moisture out of the air and dampening the dirt to keep the dust down. Or just think of how road salt or ocean water corrode boats and undercarriages if you fail to clean them.

I've used my ammonia mix as stated on my '31 Tula 91/30 Hex--which has a pristine bore. I've never had a problem and never intend to.

 
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