Trying to set up the 550 ***update***

[Executive]

OK I'm wasting good brass and bullets here. I was sold a set of RCBS dies for my new 550. The deprime die (station 1)does NOT look like it has a resizing section inside. I'm having a b!tch of a time setting the powder funnel (station 2) to bell the case correctly. The damn bullet seater (station 3) is crushing every other case. I was not sold a crimp die (supposed to be station 4?) either. Do I need one? PLEASE HELP before I go crazy.

I'm trying to load .45ACP and have 230G FMJ bullets. Don't worry, I haven't even opened up any powder yet. Still trying to calibrate everything.

 

[GTOShootr]

Browse the Dillon subforum over on BrianEnos.com forum. There are many, many Dillon users and a representative from Dillon posting there.

I don't use RCBS dies but the station one resize die should be resizing when it is set to be close to the shell plate with the ram up. It won't bell if you don't have the powder measure on (clamps with two Allen screws) the powder die and you'll crush cases if it isn't belling enough. Read up on BE and go back to straighten out one station at a time. Resize until cases gauge, mount the powder and screw the powder die until you have enough bell for the bullet to sit in the case mouth, set seating to get the right OAL, and set the crimp to reverse the belling and remove any edge. When you add powder set it by weighing about five throws and taking the average, it is easier and more accurate. There are little knobs at Home Depot in specialty fastener drawers that fit on the power measure nut and work great as a dial.

 

[rscalzo]

The seater die on the 45ACP also crimps. I purchased a Lee taper crimp die for station four and use the seater in station 3 as a seater only.

The powder funnel adjusts by bringing the powder measure up and down. Trial and error.

As far as the sizer/depriming problem, can't help there. I'm guessing the set was used..

 

[Scrivener]

Forget seating and crimping with the same die. SEAT at station #3; use a Lee FCD at station #4.

It works MUCH better that way!

 

[Gammon]

Get a set of Dillon dies, you will save money and frustration in the long run.

 

[highlander]

Could they be Steel dies as a carbide die has an insert that you can see.
As far as the cases being crushed sounds like your belling the case too much back the powder die off and try putting just a slight bell on the case mouth.
If your near me perhaps I can come and help you set up your press,I had a 550 for 20 years pm me if this idea is acceptable

 

[TonyD]

With the ram up, but not cammed over, set the sizing die so it just touches the shell plate and lock it down. Measure the case if you don't think it's sizing.

I'm confused about belling the mouth with a powder funnel? My RCBS set has a die that bells the mouth at station 2. Station 3 has the CAL powder measure and station 4 seats and crimps with no problems.

With a sized case in the shell plate, and the ram at the top, screw the seat/crimp die down until it contacts the case. It will be about 1/4" above the shell plate. Then you can set the seating depth.

 

[GTOShootr]

Get a set of Dillon dies, you will save money and frustration in the long run.

+1

I'm home sick today and was just browsing the Midway catalog and the RCBS dies I see there are a 3-dies set with a resize decap, a belling die, and a combo crimp and seat. You don't want that. The 550 bells the case with the powder funnel. Get a Dillon or Redding 3-die set that has a resize/decap die, a seating die, and a separate taper crimp die. The Dillons are nice because the internals drop out of the die body by pulling a pin so you can clean lead bullet lube out without unscrewing the dies.

 

[GTOShootr]

I'm confused about belling the mouth with a powder funnel? My RCBS set has a die that bells the mouth at station 2. Station 3 has the CAL powder measure and station 4 seats and crimps with no problems.

The Dillon powder funnel is caliber specific (part of a caliber convserion kit). It sits in a powder die with the powder measure on top. When you set the powder die you are setting how far the case is pushed onto the powder funnel cone and determining the amount of belling. So a case in station two is pushed up into powder die around the end of the powder funnel which moves upward within the die, actuating the powder bar stroke to dropping the charge and belling the case at the same time. There is a rod attached to the front of the powder measure that resets the powder bar for the next case on the up stroke.

 

[Executive]

Damn. The guy at Kittery sold me a RCBS carbide 3 die set--said that RCBS made Dillon's dies (BS?) I got the decap/resize die, the seat/crimp die, and a third die that I guess I can't use--it looks like it resizes the case from the inside (I think). Do I need a crimp die? I thought the bullet seat die at station three seated and crimped at the same time (.45ACP) A huge thanks to everyone who is helping me out with information here. I owe you one.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Damn. The guy at Kittery sold me a RCBS carbide 3 die set--said that RCBS made Dillon's dies (BS?) I got the decap/resize die, the seat/crimp die, and a third die that I guess I can't use--it looks like it resizes the case from the inside (I think). Do I need a crimp die? I thought the bullet seat die at station three seated and crimped at the same time (.45ACP) A huge thanks to everyone who is helping me out with information here. I owe you one.

The one that looks like it resizes from the inside is the expander (belling) die. You don't need it because you'll be performing that step with the funnel (powder-through expander) in your powder measure. You can crimp with your seating die, but because you now have an open station, a separate crimping die is preferable. You'll use your current seating/crimping die to seat only. The benefits of using a separate crimping die:

1. You can adjust your crimp without changing the C.O.A.L. (and therefore having to mess with the seating adjustment too).
2. You can adjust your seating depth without having to readjust the crimp.
3. You'll be crimping bullets that are not moving. When you crimp with the seating die, the bullet is still being seated (moving) while you're crimping.

 

[adweisbe]

Do you have a reloading manual? It would smooth this whole operation out because it would explain what the steps are in reloading a case and what each die does. Does the manual of the 550 contain any information about how to configure the press with dies?

The way I think you should set up your press:

Station 1, Sizing die, just screw it in according to the instructions

Station 2, Dillon powder through expander and powder drop, this should have come with the caliber conversion kit for your press. Adjust the expander so it bells the case mouth the minimum amount necessary to seat a bullet. That is, belled enough that you can set the bullet in the mouth of the case a tiny bit.

Station 3, Seat and crimp, the current die you have for station three seats the bullet and then crimps (eliminated the bell you just made in the case mouth to seat the bullet). Ideally you would not use a single die to do this, but the one you bought does. The seat and crimp die needs careful adjustment to work correctly. First thing to do is read the instructions that came with the die to find out how to adjust it. Second, configure the die so it does not crimp at all. Set the seating depth you want. Then after you have set the seating depth you can adjust the die for the necessary amount of crimp. Caveat, I have never had a die that seats and crimps in the same step so the procedure might vary a little.

Station 4, Here you should put the die that does the crimping, crimping in a separate step makes die adjustments easier because the two operations (crimping and seating) are no longer linked. Buy a Lee Factory crimp die to put in this station.

Take the expander die you got with the 3 die set and put it away. You will not be needing it for now.

 

[Lugnut]

FWIW when I was using my Rockchucker single stage press I seated and crimped at the same time and I had no issues at all. I belled just enough to get a bullet to sit in the case and the crimp was just enough to remove the belling. Remember- it's not the crimp that secures the bullet to the case, it's the inside case tension all around the bullet. I'm sure I used/use a light crimp, all that matters is the proper feeding into the chamber from what I've learned.

 

[GTOShootr]

All of the Dillon manuals are online on their site. They have good photos and schematics with part numbers. I used them on Tuesday to call Dillon about worn parts and they arrived in the mail today, free of charge.

 

[TonyD]

The Dillon powder funnel is caliber specific (part of a caliber convserion kit). It sits in a powder die with the powder measure on top. When you set the powder die you are setting how far the case is pushed onto the powder funnel cone and determining the amount of belling. So a case in station two is pushed up into powder die around the end of the powder funnel which moves upward within the die, actuating the powder bar stroke to dropping the charge and belling the case at the same time. There is a rod attached to the front of the powder measure that resets the powder bar for the next case on the up stroke.

Wow, glad I just stick with RCBS stuff. I'm sure it would be different if I had started with Dillon or honady or someone. RCBS realyy is simple and there is nothing wrong with their dies.

However, if he is using a Dillon press then Dillon dies would make more sense.

I use RCBS press and dies.

 

[edin508]

Get a set of Dillon dies, you will save money and frustration in the long run.

+1 to that
I had my 650 out of the box and making .45 bullets in just a few hours. I already own the RCBS dies but I broke down and got the dillon dies with the 650 and the set up was easy.

 

[Scrivener]

I have RCBS dies in my 550, where they function just fine. The Dillon design is very slick, but I wouldn't toss them and buy Dillon at this point.

 

[Executive]

SUCCESS!!!!!!

I think I've got it. 4.3 g (starting load) of W231, 230g FMJ and I'm cranking out rounds that are indistinguishable from factory WWB. Think I'll make about 20 or so and test them out on the range tomorrow. Thanks again all!

 

[Lugnut]

Great! Wow- I started at 4.8gr and went up to 5.8gr with 230gr FMJ.... 4.3gr is light. You might want to make a couple other batches as well. Start with 4.3gr and work your way up. I settled in at 5.2gr of 231 and like it.

 

[Gammon]

Damn. The guy at Kittery sold me a RCBS carbide 3 die set--said that RCBS made Dillon's dies (BS?) I got the decap/resize die, the seat/crimp die, and a third die that I guess I can't use--it looks like it resizes the case from the inside (I think). Do I need a crimp die? I thought the bullet seat die at station three seated and crimped at the same time (.45ACP) A huge thanks to everyone who is helping me out with information here. I owe you one.

Take this mess back to Kittery and get a refund. Your dies were never designed to work in a progressive reloader. Beware "Gun Store Commandos"!

 

[Gammon]

PS I have used dies other than Dillon in my presses (RL 300, 450, 550, and 1050) with mixed results. My experiences have taught me to use Dillon dies in most applications with two exceptions. First, the Lee Undersized Resizing Die (available from EGW) is the only resizer I have found that will reliably resize once fired 40 brass that was fired in a loose chamber (Glock). Second, I have found the Redding Competition Seating Die to be superior to the Dillon seating die. It easily disassembles for cleaning like the Dillon but offers the advantage of a micrometer seating stem that allows you to set OAL by the thousandths marked on the stem, rather than trial and error, and needs no lock nut. I have also experimented with the Lee FCD but the jury is still out on this die.

Generally speaking, you are better off with Dillon dies in your Dillon press. If you are new to progressive reloading, you can save yourself a lot of aggravation by using factory dies.

 

[RKG]

Remember- it's not the crimp that secures the bullet to the case, it's the inside case tension all around the bullet.

This statement is true for straight-wall auto pistol rounds. It is not quite so for revolver rounds, in particular heavy loads for .357s and .44s and target loads for .38s. In the former case, a good crimp is required to keep the slugs in queued up rounds from migrating on account of recoil, and in the latter case a consistent crimp contributes to shot-to-shot consistency of velocity (and, therefore, "accuracy").

 

[Lugnut]

This statement is true for straight-wall auto pistol rounds. It is not quite so for revolver rounds, in particular heavy loads for .357s and .44s and target loads for .38s. In the former case, a good crimp is required to keep the slugs in queued up rounds from migrating on account of recoil, and in the latter case a consistent crimp contributes to shot-to-shot consistency of velocity (and, therefore, "accuracy").

Great point. I was thinking .45ACP and some of the other semi rounds I shoot. I need to realize that there are revolvers out there too.

 

[BIG GUN]

I reload 25 calibers with a Dillon 550. Most of my dies are RCBS, or Lee. I have never had a problem with them. In pistol calibers, I do use a seperate Lee crimp die, and in some rifle calibers, I use the Lee factory crimp die.
Hundreds of thousands of reloads, never a problem.

 

[drgrant]

Great point. I was thinking .45ACP and some of the other semi rounds I shoot. I need to realize that there are revolvers out there too.

Although this brings up some curiousity.... what about loading 45ACP for
a revolver? Obviously you can make good ammo that works in both
revolvers and autos.

-Mike

 

[Scrivener]

Although this brings up some curiousity.... what about loading 45ACP for a revolver? Obviously you can make good ammo that works in both revolvers and autos.

Of course one can. Do NOT use SWC bullets if you are using moon clips; the shoulders catch on the end of the chamber.

I use 200 gr RNFP bullets, which feed equally well in my 625 and my SVI. Obviously RN bullets would work fine, too.

I also use a Lee FCD, which gives the taper crimp required for good auto cartridges, works just fine in the revolvers and resizes the cartridges, greatly eliminating feed jams from bullet bulges.

In short, not a problem.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Do NOT use SWC bullets if you are using moon clips; the shoulders catch on the end of the chamber.

I'll throw a great big +1 on this. I made the mistake of bringing my 625 to the range with a few hundred 200gr SWCs that I originally loaded for my 4506. What a friggin' nightmare. It seemed like I had to wiggle every individual round in order to get them to chamber.

 

[Executive]

I'm noticing that after about two thousand rounds of .45 reloads, station one of my 550 is not "centering" the case for deprime and I need to nudge the case or it will not seat concentrically in the station one die. I have broken two deprime pins and want to fix this problem Is there a trick to adjusting the seating spring (the one that looks like a bent paper clip) correctly? Am I doing something else wrong? My reloads have been great and I have had no other problems after my initial setup. Any help from the 550 reloaders here would be appreciated.

 

[Scrivener]

Might just be time for a cleaning - did you spill any powder setting up Station #2?

 

[Gammon]

I'm noticing that after about two thousand rounds of .45 reloads, station one of my 550 is not "centering" the case for deprime and I need to nudge the case or it will not seat concentrically in the station one die. I have broken two deprime pins and want to fix this problem Is there a trick to adjusting the seating spring (the one that looks like a bent paper clip) correctly? Am I doing something else wrong? My reloads have been great and I have had no other problems after my initial setup. Any help from the 550 reloaders here would be appreciated.

I adjust this spring so that there is a little pressure against the case when it is in the shell plate. This alignment won't have any affect on the decapping pins as the die itself centers the case to align the pin with the flash hole in the case. This spring is more important in aligning the case to seat a primer.

Dillon dies have a generous flare at the mouth to guide the case into the die. Your RCBS dies may not have been designed to be used with a progressive machine and lack this flare. This means you have to manually center the case. I had the same problem myself, using RCBS dies in a Dillon reloader. I hate to sound like a broken record but Dillon dies will solve these problems.