Zero A .22LR Rifle at 50 FEET

JCV

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Hey Guys,

I need some advice.
I've got to sight in a Remington 597 I bought last night. 20" barrel - 3-9x Scope. Sighting it in with standard velocity 40gr ammo.

The range i'll be at is indoor only and max distance is 50 feet :-(
Ideally I'd have this sighted in at 50 yards.

I'm trying to look at trajectory charts to find out what distance if any would work.
I just feel like there are too many charts and I'm not sure which is going to be most accurate.

Any and all advice will be appreciated.
I realize it's not an ideal situation but I feel it's possible......

50 feet = 16.6 yards
 
Another 597 owner here, before heading to the range I suggest breaking it down and polishing the guide rods before putting a single round through it.

When I first got mine I was going through the process of seeing with brand/velocity it liked best and it was frustrating as hell getting stovepipes/FTF/FTE and thinking it may be the ammo, it's the guide rods. Once I did that it ran smooth, it had gotten so bad I almost went out and picked up another .22 until I found out that was the problem I was having. Also, take care to not tighten the guide rods to much as that will cause the springs to bind up.

[video=youtube_share;brnyBUUmXeo]http://youtu.be/brnyBUUmXeo[/video]

Edit: I also got one of these tools for the the guide rod spring, it makes it so much easier to get them to stay put for reassembling.

http://gunsmithertools.com/597-remington-springtrap.html
 
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Hey Guys,

I need some advice.
I've got to sight in a Remington 597 I bought last night. 20" barrel - 3-9x Scope. Sighting it in with standard velocity 40gr ammo.

The range i'll be at is indoor only and max distance is 50 feet :-(
Ideally I'd have this sighted in at 50 yards.

I'm trying to look at trajectory charts to find out what distance if any would work.
I just feel like there are too many charts and I'm not sure which is going to be most accurate.

Any and all advice will be appreciated.
I realize it's not an ideal situation but I feel it's possible......

50 feet = 16.6 yards

19 yards is ideal for a good ballistic arc from 0-100 yards. This will vary a little based on the load you're using, but simply boiled down, if you fire a .22LR zeroed for 19 yards, the bullet passed through zero at 19 yards, reaches the apex of its arch only about 1" above point of aim at 50, dips back through zero at 76 yards, than will only be about 2.5" low at 100 yards. With this zero, you get 0-87 yards with the bullet never being more than 1" high or low of point of aim.

Zeroing for 16 yards is going to significantly change that arc. Your second point of zero will be at 89 yards, but the downside is that the bullet will reach 2" above POA at about 55 yards, and will still dip down to 1.5" low at 100. I spent a lot of time working out that 19 yards is arguably the best zero for minimum deviation, while maintaining an acceptable drop at 100 (again, based on my load data).

Based on my load data for .22LR, including my personal chrono results, you could zero 0.25" low at 50ft and that would give you the above mentioned 19/76yd zero. If you could provide the bullet weight in use and the exact chronographed average velocity from your barrel (along with the height over bore of the centerline if your optic) I could give you the exact zero bias for 50ft to get an optimal longer-range zero (as in "hold zero for .33 inches low at 50ft" or whatever the needed hold is). If you don't have a chrono, I could get real close with the other two things.

edit: If you don't have a chrono, I would need to know the specific brand and bullet model just to know what the manufacturer's quoted velocity is.
 
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19 yards is ideal for a good ballistic arc from 0-100 yards. This will vary a little based on the load you're using, but simply boiled down, if you fire a .22LR zeroed for 19 yards, the bullet passed through zero at 19 yards, reaches the apex of its arch only about 1" above point of aim at 50, dips back through zero at 76 yards, than will only be about 2.5" low at 100 yards. With this zero, you get 0-87 yards with the bullet never being more than 1" high or low of point of aim.

Zeroing for 16 yards is going to significantly change that arc. Your second point of zero will be at 89 yards, but the downside is that the bullet will reach 2" above POA at about 55 yards, and will still dip down to 1.5" low at 100. I spent a lot of time working out that 19 yards is arguably the best zero for minimum deviation, while maintaining an acceptable drop at 100 (again, based on my load data).

Based on my load data for .22LR, including my personal chrono results, you could zero 0.25" low at 50ft and that would give you the above mentioned 19/76yd zero. If you could provide the bullet weight in use and the exact chronographed average velocity from your barrel (along with the height over bore of the centerline if your optic) I could give you the exact zero bias for 50ft to get an optimal longer-range zero (as in "hold zero for .33 inches low at 50ft" or whatever the needed hold is). If you don't have a chrono, I could get real close with the other two things.

edit: If you don't have a chrono, I would need to know the specific brand and bullet model just to know what the manufacturer's quoted velocity is.

This is great info!
Unfortunately I do not have a chrono, but the ammo used is http://www.luckygunner.com/22-lr-40-gr-lrn-federal-champion-auto-match-target-325-rounds
The centerline of my optic over my bore is 1.5"
 
I forgot to add if you're having a tough time sourcing magazines, or just want to save a few dollars per, check out these ones. They're a much more robust magazine than the stock ones, the only problem is they're also much heavier(roughly 4 or 5 Remingtons to 1 keepshooting). Both will take a bit of time to break in to be able to fit the tenth round in so don't let that frustrate you.

http://www.keepshooting.com/remington-597-magazine-10-round.html
 
I forgot to add if you're having a tough time sourcing magazines, or just want to save a few dollars per, check out these ones. They're a much more robust magazine than the stock ones, the only problem is they're also much heavier(roughly 4 or 5 Remingtons to 1 keepshooting). Both will take a bit of time to break in to be able to fit the tenth round in so don't let that frustrate you.

http://www.keepshooting.com/remington-597-magazine-10-round.html

lol god damn it!
I just ordered 2 off of fleabay last night for like $34 shipped!
but thanks for the link, those look nice
 
This is great info!
Unfortunately I do not have a chrono, but the ammo used is http://www.luckygunner.com/22-lr-40-gr-lrn-federal-champion-auto-match-target-325-rounds
The centerline of my optic over my bore is 1.5"

That should work. Just want to confirm that is sight-centerline over the centerline of your bore, right? As opposed to centerline over top of barrel.

40gr is a little on the heavy side for 100 yard shooting because of the steeper arc (as compared to faster rounds). Having said that, if most of your shooting will be within 100, as opposed to mostly at 100, then you might be in luck. I plotted the data assuming a velocity just slightly below advertized, and using a ballistic coefficient that I've found to be pretty close for 40gr (0.155) when accounting for the fact that it will be passing from supersonic to subsonic during flight.

I'm finding that you should be able to do a 15/71 yard zero. This trajectory would take you to an apex of 1.25" high at 44 yards and 1.25" low at 83. At 100 you'd be around 3.75" low.

Another option (if you want your apex not to exceed 1" over POA) would be a 16/67 yard zero. This would be an inch high at 43, an inch low at 78, and 4.5" low at 100.

Last option, as I see it, would be a 13/82 zero. This would be the one that would limit your drop at 100, but at the cost of a higher apex in the middle. This would put you an inch high at 25 yards, almost 2" high at 48 yards, an inch high at 70 yards, an inch low at 90, and 2.5" low at 100. So the advantage with this zero is less total drop if you think you'll be doing a bunch of shooting at 100. The drawback is that you need to be more conscious of the exact distance to target because, between your two zero distances, you could be off by a squirrel's head in the middle.

My pick would be the 15/71zero . You go a little over an inch high in the middle, but the trajectory is flatter overall and you don't need to think quite as much about your holdovers as long as you're somewhere between 10 and 85 yards to target. With this trajectory it would be more of a "okay that's somewhere in the middle so I'll hold a little low" or "okay that's getting near 100 yards, I'll hold an inch or so high".

Of course all this is based on numbers and a ballistic table, rather than a crystal ball. Real world conditions will obviously effect what happens in the real world. With a 50ft range you can zero for all the distances I suggested, but because the trajectory is sensitive down to a couple feet (due to the zero being so close), little things can affect big change downrange. You won't know for sure if this is right until you try shooting to the second zero. That said, using this ballistic calculator and the same process for figuring this out, I ended up able to hit a pingpong ball 5 for 5 times at 100, after zeroing my rifle for 19 yards and accounting for the holdover it spat out.
 
That should work. Just want to confirm that is sight-centerline over the centerline of your bore, right? As opposed to centerline over top of barrel.

40gr is a little on the heavy side for 100 yard shooting because of the steeper arc (as compared to faster rounds). Having said that, if most of your shooting will be within 100, as opposed to mostly at 100, then you might be in luck. I plotted the data assuming a velocity just slightly below advertized, and using a ballistic coefficient that I've found to be pretty close for 40gr (0.155) when accounting for the fact that it will be passing from supersonic to subsonic during flight.

I'm finding that you should be able to do a 15/71 yard zero. This trajectory would take you to an apex of 1.25" high at 44 yards and 1.25" low at 83. At 100 you'd be around 3.75" low.

Another option (if you want your apex not to exceed 1" over POA) would be a 16/67 yard zero. This would be an inch high at 43, an inch low at 78, and 4.5" low at 100.

Last option, as I see it, would be a 13/82 zero. This would be the one that would limit your drop at 100, but at the cost of a higher apex in the middle. This would put you an inch high at 25 yards, almost 2" high at 48 yards, an inch high at 70 yards, an inch low at 90, and 2.5" low at 100. So the advantage with this zero is less total drop if you think you'll be doing a bunch of shooting at 100. The drawback is that you need to be more conscious of the exact distance to target because, between your two zero distances, you could be off by a squirrel's head in the middle.

My pick would be the 15/71zero . You go a little over an inch high in the middle, but the trajectory is flatter overall and you don't need to think quite as much about your holdovers as long as you're somewhere between 10 and 85 yards to target. With this trajectory it would be more of a "okay that's somewhere in the middle so I'll hold a little low" or "okay that's getting near 100 yards, I'll hold an inch or so high".

Of course all this is based on numbers and a ballistic table, rather than a crystal ball. Real world conditions will obviously effect what happens in the real world. With a 50ft range you can zero for all the distances I suggested, but because the trajectory is sensitive down to a couple feet (due to the zero being so close), little things can affect big change downrange. You won't know for sure if this is right until you try shooting to the second zero. That said, using this ballistic calculator and the same process for figuring this out, I ended up able to hit a pingpong ball 5 for 5 times at 100, after zeroing my rifle for 19 yards and accounting for the holdover it spat out.

You're good man, this is great info, I really appreciate it.
 
By the way this is what I'm using. http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi Takes a little messing around to figure out what you're doing, but it will provide very detailed tables.

I would recommend avoiding ALL manufacturer stated BCs. From my somewhat limited experience they're all over the map and don't always even follow the same ballistics model. Do research on different loads to find out what real people have found for BCs.

This is what I use as my baseline for BC on .22LR http://www.exteriorballistics.com/ebexplained/22rimfire.cfm. You'll notice the 0.155 I used isn't on there for 40gr. I'm using something in the middle of supersonic and higher-end-of-subsonic and that seems to have worked well for me.
 
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