1911 Ambi safety

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I am proud to say I completed my first "gunsmithing" task today. Bought a Wilson Combat ambi safety for a S&W 1911 and fitted it. I was a bit nervous because everyone told me that if I filed too much material off I was screwed, not to mention out $50 for the part. I took my time and test fit six or eight times before getting it just the way I wanted. It feels great - possibly even smoother than the operation of the factory left-side safety! I know this is a minor job but it is satisfying.
 
I am proud to say I completed my first "gunsmithing" task today. Bought a Wilson Combat ambi safety for a S&W 1911 and fitted it. I was a bit nervous because everyone told me that if I filed too much material off I was screwed, not to mention out $50 for the part. I took my time and test fit six or eight times before getting it just the way I wanted. It feels great - possibly even smoother than the operation of the factory left-side safety! I know this is a minor job but it is satisfying.

Does it feel good though? I've felt that way after I detail strip my Sigs and Glocks... too scared to do it to my S&W 1911 though. Good work. What did you use for reference?
 
Does it feel good though? I've felt that way after I detail strip my Sigs and Glocks... too scared to do it to my S&W 1911 though. Good work. What did you use for reference?

A have a few of Wilson's 1911 books and a little internet research. Steve from The Shooter's Box also helped with some good advice. I mostly copied the "grind angle" from the factory safety and adjusted slowly from there.

I actually totally stripped a 6906 for frame refinish not too long ago. That was scary but not too bad.
 
I did a Wilson Combat safety on my S&W 1911 recently. I had Greg Derr show me how to do it and check the results. Detail stripping a 1911 is easier then a Sig, if you can do a Sig then a 1911 should be easy.
 
I did a Wilson Combat safety on my S&W 1911 recently. I had Greg Derr show me how to do it and check the results. Detail stripping a 1911 is easier then a Sig, if you can do a Sig then a 1911 should be easy.


Wow.. that's encouraging! I'll have to do some reseach... I just don't feel right not being able to detail strip my guns. [wink] I've found my Sigs and Glocks to be very easy. My S&W 686, DK 1911 and my K9 are the only that haven't been detail stripped yet.... [devil]
 
I am proud to say I completed my first "gunsmithing" task today. Bought a Wilson Combat ambi safety for a S&W 1911 and fitted it. I was a bit nervous because everyone told me that if I filed too much material off I was screwed, not to mention out $50 for the part. I took my time and test fit six or eight times before getting it just the way I wanted. It feels great - possibly even smoother than the operation of the factory left-side safety! I know this is a minor job but it is satisfying.

I guess you gave the 1911 thing another try, eh?!...Good for you...Congrats on the smithing job.
 
I've never detail-stripped a S&W 1911, so I don't know what complications are added by the S&W firing pin safety.

Series 80 lockwork does add some complication over a Series 70. The Series 70 is pretty easy to detail strip. Putting it back together has a couple parts that take a little doing.

One of these days I have to detail strip my Glocks -- that's something I've never done.
 
Detail stripping the S&W 1911 involves one extra part. I am assuming you won't disassemble the safety plunger on the slide. It is unnecessary, can be difficult, and you can damage the rear sight/slide in the process. The firing pin safety lever goes into a slot in the frame and the hammer pin goes through it, otherwise the frame is identical to a regular 1911.

As for the plunger in the slide... you need to unscrew the little thingy in the rear sight so you can pound it out of the slide. The plunger and plunger spring are under there and will pop out once they clear the rear sight. There is no reason to do that, any penetrating cleaner and a q-tip through the firing pin channel should be more then enough.
 
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