3D printing

Hmmm... I should try using arc welder and see where I get with it. I keep forgetting to try it even though I already enabled it in the firmware.
 
so, dunno if anyone here uses this new sprite pro direct extruder i got - i just got some nylon with glass to try, firmware was recompiled to boost max temp to 325 deg, so, i cannot get above 295 with it.
heater is fine, but, upon climbing above 295 it produces a 'nozzle temperature too high' error and printer freezes beeping with an error. as i understand, it has to be a limit for a thermistor they used? too bad, as i do not want to deal with it much. the 295 may be sufficient as is also, but, just curious.
 
Stock thermistors are not rated to those temperatures.
Are you getting the issue immediately or once the hot end heats up?
 
pastera said:
Stock thermistors are not rated to those temperatures.
Are you getting the issue immediately or once the hot end heats up?
Click to expand...
well, it is not a stock one - it is the one in that sprite pro thing.
it trips the error upon exceeding 295. at 297 or so. does not really reach 300 well, can be there for some seconds, then errors out.
creality claimed it to be 'up to 300'. their words, not mine - but does not seem to be truth.

it is printing for 50min now at 295, so, is stable enough at it.
 
I'm pretty sure it comes with the standard type of thermistor which is fine for 260 but starts pushing it north of 280 and is not much good once you get to 300.
When you installed the new hotend did you change the thermistor type?
If you didn't and it worked it is because you have the stock 'type' of thermistor that doesn't work as you approach 300°C.
You can modify the firmware to allow operating at/around 300 but that's not a safe option.
Getting a different thermistor type that operates above 300 will let you run the higher temperatures you are asking for - well until you decide to print in PEEK
 
pastera said:
When you installed the new hotend did you change the thermistor type?
Click to expand...
it did not say to do so, so, i did not.
so it is probably a same one indeed. i just wonder if it is worth the hassle for me to deal with it now, as it seems to work fine at 295.
 
paul73 said:
it did not say to do so, so, i did not.
so it is probably a same one indeed. i just wonder if it is worth the hassle for me to deal with it now, as it seems to work fine at 295.
Click to expand...
It works but the resistance change vs temp starts to flatline around 300°
No change in resistance means the controller can't tell the hotend is getting hotter and thermal runaway can occur
 
pastera said:
It works but the resistance change vs temp starts to flatline around 300°
No change in resistance means the controller can't tell the hotend is getting hotter and thermal runaway can occur
Click to expand...
it is odd a bit, i searched online and no one says yet that sprite pro needs having it done...
it is a simper design there - with a local connector. looks pretty neat now, i hate an idea of touching it...

ok, i edited the response here - i have those exact parts and cannot find any alternative, will leave it along for now, as it does not seem to be upgradable yet.
it is not the same one that is in the stock ender 3 v2, btw.


it is a :
3. Thermistor: NTC100K B3950 thermistor, upgraded can get up to 300℃ for time working, efficient and reliable.
reddit says not to touch TEMP_SENSOR_0 and keep it at '1' as it was.
 

Attachments

  • 1668627222993.png
    1668627222993.png
    155.8 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
FWIW, after trying the stock, MicroSwiss, E3D, etc. stuff, I settled on the Slice Copperhead with my Ender 5 to print Nylon, whether it be glass or CF filled. Had to reprogram the settings and such to reach appropriate temps. Also had to replace the thermister obv.
 
bigblue said:
FWIW, after trying the stock, MicroSwiss, E3D, etc. stuff, I settled on the Slice Copperhead with my Ender 5 to print Nylon, whether it be glass or CF filled. Had to reprogram the settings and such to reach appropriate temps. Also had to replace the thermister obv.
Click to expand...
that new sprite pro - same extruder as on the s1 pro printer - it is just fine, it prints great.
i think it is just the issue with a thermistor i have there, but, to replace it now will probably be a problem, as i do not see anything in the same form factor at all, that is qualified up to 500deg.
www.3djake.com

3D Printer Thermistors - 3DJake International

3D Printer Thermistors. E3D Prusa Thermistor, E3D Thermistor, Creality Thermistor Kit.
www.3djake.com www.3djake.com

i can of course try out the same type, just to swap for the same kind - but, well, dunno if it will do any good. it maxes out at 300, and mine shows fine up to 295, so, other than to disable thermistor safety in the firmware - that i do not want to do - it is probably doing the best it can.

may be in time somebody will make a swappable 500deg thermistor for s1 pro.
 
I mean, its specifically marketed as a 300 degree extruder so I wouldn't expect to print Nylon with it.

That being said, I do like the setup of the extruder and would consider throwing the Copperhead on there for nylon and such. Still not 100% on direct drive tho.
 
Last edited:
pastera said:
Saw that
I'm so used to the filaments that I use even less than $10/k doesn't interest me.
I'd rather spend the $20/k and know my prints are going to complete and be correct.
Click to expand...
well, i am still in experimenting stage, and with a set of various pla plus - i got to say, most of those on amazon that do have 100+ good reviews - so far all of them printed good.
i got only couple of rolls that were outright bad, and they went back for refund. gotta love amazon. :)

sunlu, novamaker, jayo, monoprice - all pla plus worked quite good, i ran them mostly at 220. none was bought above $15. :)
 
Pastera printed up some change gears for my lathe. Put them to the test over the weekend.even survived a small crash!
Thanks again I owe U on that one!
Im not sure of a market for the smithy gears but 3D seems very popular with the mini lathe crowd
 
bigblue said:
Why
Click to expand...
because a certain part of the 3d printed frame there always brakes off after some time and either jams it or makes it go full auto which is always less than pleasant.
it is not safe. i do not do it and would not advise anyone to do it. not with any regular consumer grade filaments.
 
And without engineering grade filaments the frame gets soft as the gun heats up.
Printing from PEI or PEEK would result in a highly heat resistant, strong frame but would require an industrial printer given the extreme nozzle temperature required to print.
A home machine could be modified to print those materials but only a small handful of people will be able to do so.
 
pastera said:
And without engineering grade filaments the frame gets soft as the gun heats up.
Printing from PEI or PEEK would result in a highly heat resistant, strong frame but would require an industrial printer given the extreme nozzle temperature required to print.
A home machine could be modified to print those materials but only a small handful of people will be able to do so.
Click to expand...
plus the cost of peek filament for a home frame printing experiment, compared to a cost of p80 frame - it just makes little sense.
i am not a nay sayer - but it is just too popularized now, the opinion like a pla+ printed frames are a simple straight up way to go - and it is really not so, at all.
and if one wants to experiment - the least i would say - load the mag with 2 rounds top and be very careful.
 
If you can cash and carry a p80 frame that's the way to go.
3d printing allows you to get exactly what you want for grip textures and features as long as you are okay with printing new frames as needed.
 
pastera said:
And without engineering grade filaments the frame gets soft as the gun heats up.
Printing from PEI or PEEK would result in a highly heat resistant, strong frame but would require an industrial printer given the extreme nozzle temperature required to print.
A home machine could be modified to print those materials but only a small handful of people will be able to do so.
Click to expand...
if we would talk about affordable pro grade filaments - i do not care about guns silliness here - speaking of hi temp, automotive and mechanical parts - what would be, if any, a more affordable alternative to a 3dxtech CARBONX HTN+CF [HIGH TEMP NYLON + CARBON FIBER]?

as it is a great material for sure, but, at $175 it is not really suitable for an experimentation or models development. i tried couple of cheaper rolls from amazon with 240-250 nozzle temp claimed and it all was pretty much junk, seemed like abs mixes that would start softening and losing shape completely at 80-100C.
 
True - once you get to materials that can reliably replace injection molded parts the cost skyrockets and printability rapidly declines
I'm looking at modifying my X5SA to have a heated enclosure and a thermocouple controlled high temp hotend so I can print larger nylon and PC parts
 
pastera said:
True - once you get to materials that can reliably replace injection molded parts the cost skyrockets and printability rapidly declines
I'm looking at modifying my X5SA to have a heated enclosure and a thermocouple controlled high temp hotend so I can print larger nylon and PC parts
Click to expand...
i have an enclosure and this new hotend is stable at 295 - that covers a lower end of better materials, for now. if i sort out that thermistor issue causing the 'nozzle is too higherature' firmware error it will go higher to 320-330 just fine, i bet, but i do not want to bother with what i have now as it all works quite well, even if only up to 295. :)

but a cost does skyrocket for sure. it is quite annoying that in reality with all the swarm of offers on amazon there is really no real alternatives to good quality materials.
 

Similar threads

Dillon 550 3DP Case Feeder
Replies
6
Views
1K
ruebarb
ruebarb
3D Printing for Reloading
Replies
5
Views
2K
pastera
pastera
3D printing reloading die mounts
Replies
3
Views
891
PEW
PEW
Good News in G.O.A.L. News Print Edition
Replies
21
Views
2K
milktree
milktree
Back
Top Bottom