3D printing

Michael J. Spangler said:
It looks like under extruding. Possibly due to a partial clog in the nozzle. What brand PLA?
Click to expand...
impossible to say which brand now, it is gone anyway, that spool. it was not really underextruding before with the original hotend, so, go figure.
i will try now other spool of blue pla+ - will see if that one will work better.
this new sprite pro head is tricky, it takes some time to adjust to its performance. i had to reduce the infill amount 15% to the wall flow, or it was doing the messy pool of goo.
the PC-CF i have dialed in perfectly well now, those prints are just amazing - last one i did in 15hrs that used to be a day and a half before.

other materials will probably take some effort to dial in. i am playing with those FFV5.0 profiles - they all come with default 95% set for extrusion and 4.2mm line width, so, will see if that is the effect. or not. last one - the shot i had shown, had wall extrusion set to 100% - and the concentric crap was of exactly same pattern as on the 95% extrusion profile.

what is good with that sprite pro also - it is really not truly possible to clog it, and if pushed filament by hand down it feels how it flows out free. great design, so much better than the original bowden tube thing.

i was just very surprised to see it on PLA as that superhard PC-CF is way more sensitive to extrusion amounts and immediately shows defects on inconsistent layers.
 
I noticed from brand to brand I had to re calibrate extrusion with the Bowden machine. I was surprised how off it was from one to another.
Than and I had some heating issues that were causing extrusion problems.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
I noticed from brand to brand I had to re calibrate extrusion with the Bowden machine. I was surprised how off it was from one to another.
Than and I had some heating issues that were causing extrusion problems.
Click to expand...
to make it more puzzling - this is a a same filament, same profile, just a different model. NONE of those issues. the top of the model is similar to the base of the insert in the diameter - but shows none of those concentric misses. truly makes me wonder what it can be. a slicer bug? so odd.

the issue was repeatable and reproducible, i has several prints like that and pattern of missed circles was somewhat similar as well. well, in 50 min the blue pla+ will be complete, will see how it will show up.

2339E289-D56D-4B01-9CCC-C81BF134517C.jpeg
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
It looks like under extruding. Possibly due to a partial clog in the nozzle. What brand PLA?
Click to expand...
i fixed it all. cannot tell intelligently which parameter had most effect, i think it was a combination of several things, with 'enable coasting' back being most productive one.
prints great again. :)

also with all those experiments i get to a solid opinion that the one and only parameter that truly controls - with a direct 1:1 relation to quality of prints is the jerk control.
playing now with that, having acceleration at a 1000 and speed set to 150 on walls/infill and 300 on travel. fun stuff.
 
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paul73 said:
Could anyone pls explain what may be the reason of those concentric defects on that print below? It is a pla at 205deg.

This sample was delayed to 5sec 60mm/s flow for tube, a 2sec per layer 100 mm/s flow faster print had same exact pattern. PC-CF printed at 100/2 fast settings and 270deg had none of those.

View attachment 679556
Click to expand...
I see stringing in there too
Did you tune the pla settings for your printer?
Did you switch the nozzle to get rid of PC remnants? When going from a high temp filament to a low temp material it's very hard to purge all of the old filament so can cause printing issues
 
pastera said:
I see stringing in there too
Did you tune the pla settings for your printer?
Did you switch the nozzle to get rid of PC remnants? When going from a high temp filament to a low temp material it's very hard to purge all of the old filament so can cause printing issues
Click to expand...
go figure, i think it was mostly underextrusion. it prints now as can be seen in post above, it is a pla+, jayo brand. an ok quality for my needs.
 
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paul73 said:
go figure, i think it was mostly underextrusion. it prints now as can be seen in post above, it is a pla+, jayo brand. an ok quality for my needs.
Click to expand...
Did you do anything to fix it or didit clear up on its own?
If it cleared up then it was likely pc in thr nozzle that finally got stripped out
 
i just caught myself at the fact that like i used to hunt down cheap ammo some time ago - now i hunt down cheap $12-$14 filament on amazon.
cannot figure out yet how they discount this stuff, that regularly goes at $19-$26, and then bam - it is at $13 price.
it gotta be some logic and structure in that madness. :)
 
paul73 said:
i just caught myself at the fact that like i used to hunt down cheap ammo some time ago - now i hunt down cheap $12-$14 filament on amazon.
cannot figure out yet how they discount this stuff, that regularly goes at $19-$26, and then bam - it is at $13 price.
it gotta be some logic and structure in that madness. :)
Click to expand...
Does it degrade? Maybe its just taking up riom and they need to dump it to make room for the next delivery if pallets.
 
paul73 said:
i just caught myself at the fact that like i used to hunt down cheap ammo some time ago - now i hunt down cheap $12-$14 filament on amazon.
cannot figure out yet how they discount this stuff, that regularly goes at $19-$26, and then bam - it is at $13 price.
it gotta be some logic and structure in that madness. :)
Click to expand...

Prob no different than how any other retailers discount stuff... no one knows. 😅 Could be manufacture promo, overstock, end of year financials booster, cleanout for new packaging/design, etc
In bulk, generic pla costs $2-3 a spool to make and deliver to stateside warehouse, maybe $5 for the nicer wound and better QC stuff. So even at $10-15, they can still profit.

An order somewhere between 500 & 1000 spools will cost $1 each. Group buy, anyone? [rofl]
 
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mac1911 said:
Does it degrade? Maybe its just taking up riom and they need to dump it to make room for the next delivery if pallets.
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Nope, it is same exact stuff. Priline superhard pc cf fluctuates from $58 to $46, regular pla+ stuff - down to $12-13.

Pla plus prints a bit better than pla, so I prefer it. All fun
 
mac1911 said:
Does it degrade? Maybe its just taking up riom and they need to dump it to make room for the next delivery if pallets.
Click to expand...
I will absorb moisture if not packaged properly but that only makes it harder to print. Dry out the spool and it's fine.
PLA isn't too bad with moisture but most of the higher performance stuff is a bastard when wet.
 
pastera said:
I hope that spool comes with stickers.
3d Solutech black PLA works great for $20/k
I guess Prusa is the HK of 3d printing.
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i am playing with ultrafast profiles now, and for extra speed, at .24mm layer .55mm line, at 215deg most PLA+ i have prints very well. regular PLA - not so much. that new spider pro direct drive extruder is truly amazing.

so far i rally like the stuff from JAYO -
Amazon product ASIN B08NJCB9C4View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NJCB9C4/


and this is good - when i got it for $13.80 shipped - but it had a 3 weeks wait at that deal time.
Amazon product ASIN B01MCV2P1NView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCV2P1N


Solutech i did not see ever yet to go on sale into $13-$15 range, they probably make enough sales at the $22 level...
 
speaking of profiles and the monoprice pla+ - so, this strainer printed in 33 minutes, slicer was saying 56min, in .24mm profile.
regular stock .2mm profile estimates 3 hours 55min, low quality .28mm - 2hrs 55min.

looking at enlarged photo may be i should play more with coasting settings, but on the real thing without flash highlights it is not that visible.

03D1190F-C759-4D64-B11B-83B00812046D.jpeg
 
1776 said:
Anyone printing metal parts 🤔
all3dp.com

Quick Start Guide to 3D Printing with Metal Filament

Solid metal parts at a fraction of the cost compared to industrial metal 3D printing methods. Learn how to 3D print with metal filament.
all3dp.com all3dp.com
25% shrinkage.....sounds like an ice fishing effect 🤔
Click to expand...
At the makerspace we're going to start doing "lost wax" investment printing-- printing with machinable wax, then casting in brass.

Previously tried the "lost PLA" technique, sadly burning the print out of the mold didn't go well and results were poor. Cost for the wax filament is high, but a fraction of the metal filament and easier to post-process in-house.

paul73 said:
speaking of profiles and the monoprice pla+ - so, this strainer printed in 33 minutes, slicer was saying 56min, in .24mm profile.
...
looking at enlarged photo may be i should play more with coasting settings, but on the real thing without flash highlights it is not that visible.
Click to expand...
That's not too bad.
Any cylinder printed on a FDM printer in anything but "vase mode" will inherently have some artifacts from the "z-seam" (where the printer pauses to raise the head for the next layer).
 
I would love to get into casting but just haven't been able to jump into it.
Need to find a source for green sand locally then figure out a way to mull it effectively to keep it working.
 
pastera said:
I would love to get into casting but just haven't been able to jump into it.
Need to find a source for green sand locally then figure out a way to mull it effectively to keep it working.
Click to expand...
i trust industry will come up with something simpler. like i heard other day about the prototype of the metal filament that can be cured in the usual microwave oven.
that would be interesting.
 
Kevin_NH said:
That's not too bad.
Any cylinder printed on a FDM printer in anything but "vase mode" will inherently have some artifacts from the "z-seam" (where the printer pauses to raise the head for the next layer).
Click to expand...
thx. i am still playing with the limits of this ender 3 platform having direct extruder on it. even without klipper a lot of stuff can be done in the simple old cura, with some effort.
i think about bolting down printer to the bench now, and may be placing additional rigidity kit on the vertical beams. not sure about it, though, as the #1 issue now is the the belt pulleys, really, not the frame.
 
paul73 said:
i trust industry will come up with something simpler. like i heard other day about the prototype of the metal filament that can be cured in the usual microwave oven.
that would be interesting.
Click to expand...
Interesting but I don't want to be stuck with high cost, limited availability materials.
Once you produce the pattern then casting more parts just takes more molds and sand
Investment casting is nice since it's vert close to is not a fully finished part as cast but takes more equipment, knowledge and experience
 
pastera said:
Interesting but I don't want to be stuck with high cost, limited availability materials.
Once you produce the pattern then casting more parts just takes more molds and sand
Investment casting is nice since it's vert close to is not a fully finished part as cast but takes more equipment, knowledge and experience
Click to expand...
i think this industry will close up quite fast, with major big dogs to provide their own closed platforms that feed on their own custom consumables.
an era of a wild tinkering that takes place now will go, it is inevitable. all those amateurish slicers, build-it-yourself marlin firmwares, all that will be as good as gone very soon.

same thing that happened to drones, pretty much, as soon as DJI monster emerged and most of the self-made models became simply irrelevant, financially. the whole concept of a self-made drone for entrepreneurship became simply obsolete.
there is still some very limited market for those parts and assemblies, but it is nothing like it was 10-15 years ago. life just took over. and now it is just a DJI.
 
For drones you need to source precisely made parts for it to work
A 3d printing printer is like a lathe in that it can make functional copies of itself AND if care is used those copies are less crude.
So as long as filament is available, 3d printing as a hobby will continue.

The free slicers are far from amateur and open source firmware is what allowed the industry to flourish - FDM has been around for decades. Once the patents ran out that's when the hobbyists took it to the next level and drove the industry
 

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